Joint type opinion?
- Thread starter X Breaker
- Start date
nipponbilliards said:
Both can be very tight. Layani had to make a modification I believe to limit the amount of contact area on their joint because it became to difficult for some people to break the joint apart. Keith M. had a wood to wood that was like trying to pull "Excaliber from the stone" to break apart.
As for the Lambros I've heard some love it some don't. Plus I think there are more than one Lambros joint now. So which people are referring to becomes confusing. Most just can't afford to get a Lambros. But I think there are other cuemakers who use the Lambros. So???
Terry
What is your favorite joint?
Mine is the radial pin. It cinches tight and is nearly foolproof. It won't cross threads and strip, has no inserts to rattle loose, almost can't come loose, and doesn't wear out the shaft threads.
How important is the joint when you decide to buy a cue?
It's important to me in a custom cue, but not in a prodction cue. Most joints are reasonably acceptable.
What is the worst joint you have come across?
The uniloc. This is an unreliable joint that rattles and comes loose. I am also not too fond of Huebler's nylon insert. I like the way it plays (a lot), but it's easy to cross thread and strip. I also do not think Meucci's joint is durable. The plastic is thin and prone to cracking.
My conclusion is, the fewer parts to get loose, strip, rattle, and break - the better.
Chris
Mine is the radial pin. It cinches tight and is nearly foolproof. It won't cross threads and strip, has no inserts to rattle loose, almost can't come loose, and doesn't wear out the shaft threads.
How important is the joint when you decide to buy a cue?
It's important to me in a custom cue, but not in a prodction cue. Most joints are reasonably acceptable.
What is the worst joint you have come across?
The uniloc. This is an unreliable joint that rattles and comes loose. I am also not too fond of Huebler's nylon insert. I like the way it plays (a lot), but it's easy to cross thread and strip. I also do not think Meucci's joint is durable. The plastic is thin and prone to cracking.
My conclusion is, the fewer parts to get loose, strip, rattle, and break - the better.
Chris
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nipponbilliards said:
To me, the radial pin is just an improved 3/8 X 10 which was the best joint before it.
I think the most reliabe contact is a flat face joint. Whether it's wood, metal, ivory, or plastic doesn't make as much difference to me. The important thing is that the surfaces are square and flush. How many piloted joints have you seen where the tenon is tight and seated? I've seen very few. Most of the time the shaft tenon is floating around inside the collar and the only surfaces pressing tight are the collars. Schon has the best 5/16 x 14 piloted joint made but they use care to make sure the shaft is fitted.
I've never used a Lambros. The most interesting joint is the one Eddie Laube used. It is piloted cast brass with the pin in the shaft. These joints are almost indestructable and are solid, plus the brass gives are good feel for some reason, but it's heavy. His cues tended to be battering rams.
Chris
Favorite Joint
After several thousand spent on cues over the last couple of years, I have found there is absolutely no replacement for the feel,sound,feedback...everything...of 38/10 Flat face IVORY joint coupled with Ivory ferrels. Once one can get over the sometimes huge cost, they seldom go back. I have met very few players that didnt like the way that combo feels. (not to say, theyre not out there) If you havent given it a try, please do, you wont be disappointed. Also, 38/10 wood to wood and radial wood to wood
After several thousand spent on cues over the last couple of years, I have found there is absolutely no replacement for the feel,sound,feedback...everything...of 38/10 Flat face IVORY joint coupled with Ivory ferrels. Once one can get over the sometimes huge cost, they seldom go back. I have met very few players that didnt like the way that combo feels. (not to say, theyre not out there) If you havent given it a try, please do, you wont be disappointed. Also, 38/10 wood to wood and radial wood to wood
Personally,
After having a Schon and 2 Espiritu's i would say the 5/16x14 SS joint is very nice
you know when you hit the ball well and when you dont.
Worst joint i would say is a flat face phenolic, just gave me no feedback when i was hitting the ball.
dave
After having a Schon and 2 Espiritu's i would say the 5/16x14 SS joint is very nice
you know when you hit the ball well and when you dont.
Worst joint i would say is a flat face phenolic, just gave me no feedback when i was hitting the ball.
dave
joint
I've played for a long time w/ a 3/8x10 joint because it's the joint used on cues I used to buy. the worst joint has got to be a 5/16x18 like a meucci. if it gets dirty (which will happen) it vibrates all over the place. it's just no good.
I've played for a long time w/ a 3/8x10 joint because it's the joint used on cues I used to buy. the worst joint has got to be a 5/16x18 like a meucci. if it gets dirty (which will happen) it vibrates all over the place. it's just no good.
Cornerman said:
I am w/ Cornerman in all the above respects. The Schuler joint is a very clever design as it does have a SS collar, but still maintains a lot of wood to wood contact, and the tenon does not float. My favorite, and the Schuler just has a great feel.
Have not tried Searing, Layani, or Lambros so have no opinion on these.
Unilock is the worst.
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