Joint type opinion?

X Breaker

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What is your favorite joint?

How important is the joint when you decide to buy a cue?

What is the worst joint you have come across?

Thank you.

Richard
 
I have played for years with a 5/16-14 piloted steel joint. I never had a real problem with them until I played with other cues:) My biggest complaint is when really digging into the cueball for a power draw, I was getting alot of vibration back thru the handle. Lately I've been experimenting with new types, like the southwest style of cues. We'll see...

Gerry
 
Gerry said:
I have played for years with a 5/16-14 piloted steel joint. I never had a real problem with them until I played with other cues:) My biggest complaint is when really digging into the cueball for a power draw, I was getting alot of vibration back thru the handle. Lately I've been experimenting with new types, like the southwest style of cues. We'll see...

Gerry
I have found the same vibration occasionally in 5/16-14 cues back when i played with such cues...... I have since moved up to the better feel of the bigger pins with wood to wood feel......( 3/8-11,radial pin, and the all so popular3/8-10)
 
Damn Bob, you talk way too much!!:) j/k I should tell you the story about the bamboo fly rods I came across one time....

Anyone have any thoughts on the difference between Radial pin, and 3/8-10?
 
nipponbilliards said:
What is your favorite joint?
One that doesn't cause unwanted vibration.

My favorite joint configuration is the Schuler Joint.

How important is the joint when you decide to buy a cue?
If I'm going to play with it, it's not the joint that matters. It's the feel.

What is the worst joint you have come across?
Schmelke Super Joint.

As an aside, the joint is just a means to screw the halves together. Many cuemakers have found that a flat face joint, or a joint that has a high degree of intimate non-metal contact transfers the energy without excessive vibration.

A few cuemakers (relatively speaking) have figured out how to make a stainless steel collared joint with the same feel. Other cuemakers have found that making a flat-face wood/wood joint does what they're looking for, and don't bother with the SS joint.

I've had 3/8ths-10 w/w joints that had excessive vibration, and I've had SS piloted joints that had virtually no vibration, or at least significantly less. But, IMO, the cuemaker has to work at making a low vibration SS joint.

Of the higher volume manufacturers who make SS joints, there's a reason why I recommend Joss and Schon. Of the lower volume custom makers, I think Tim Scruggs has the best handle on what has to be done to make a low vibration SS joint.

The Schuler Joint is so different, that it shouldn't be compared to other joints. But, it's meant to feel like a flat-face joint. It has more intimate contact than any other joint, except maybe the Layani joint.

Fred
 
Last edited:
Gerry said:
Damn Bob, you talk way too much!!:) j/k I should tell you the story about the bamboo fly rods I came across one time....

Anyone have any thoughts on the difference between Radial pin, and 3/8-10?

The radial pin won't cut the wood. That's about it. A poorly fit radial pin is worse than a properly fit 3/8ths-10.

Fred
 
nipponbilliards said:
What is your favorite joint?

How important is the joint when you decide to buy a cue?

What is the worst joint you have come across?

Thank you.

Richard


flatface/thin ss collar...flatface/ivory collar...piloted ivory

very

tad flatface/plastic...tad piloted ss...
 
Cornerman said:
The radial pin won't cut the wood. That's about it. A poorly fit radial pin is worse than a properly fit 3/8ths-10.

Fred

Fred, The 3/8X10s in my cue are slightly "modified", so to speak. The maker puts a radius on the threads so they aren't sharp edged like the McDermott 3/8X10. Tapped hole in the shaft is also radiused, so super tight fit, but no sharp edges to cut the wood.

Later,
Bob
 
Cane said:
Fred, The 3/8X10s in my cue are slightly "modified", so to speak. The maker puts a radius on the threads so they aren't sharp edged like the McDermott 3/8X10. Tapped hole in the shaft is also radiused, so super tight fit, but no sharp edges to cut the wood.

Later,
Bob
Just to be clear, I didn't mean to imply that a normal 3/8th-10 threads cuts the wood. You'd have to be pretty clumsy to do it.

Fred
 
Fred, yeah, but I've seen some old 3/8x10 pin cues that were sloppy loose because they were unknowingly abused in assembly/disassembly of the shaft/butt.

Later,
Bob
 
i like the feel of a piloted ss 5/16 14.......on the old schons whe you screw the shaft on there at the very end it gets really tight and snug.......i think thats the key. Ive shot with a couple 3/8 10 and 3/8 11 type joints and for some reason the cue just feels dead to me.
 
Wood to wood born of natural growth, theres no hit like a one piece :)
Just a pain to carry around.
 
nipponbilliards said:
What is your favorite joint?
Radial wood to wood
nipponbilliards said:
How important is the joint when you decide to buy a cue?
Very important
nipponbilliards said:
What is the worst joint you have come across?
The joint on my friends Fury, real dead hit to it. I've also tried a few cheap cues with s/s 5/16 x 18 which felt the same.
 
I like piloted SS 5/16-14 joints. I like the stiffer hit and the SS joint brings the balance point a little more forward which I like.
 
mine

nipponbilliards said:
What is your favorite joint?

How important is the joint when you decide to buy a cue?

What is the worst joint you have come across?

Thank you.

Richard


I usually try to be straight when I spend that kind of money!

Worst Joint was something someone gave me at Livestock in 1999
(Nice Buzz, but tasted like schizzitt)

Joe
 
ribdoner said:
FF with big BRASS screw is fav---unilk is IMO NG
I don't know how to edit so I would like to expand on my statement by saying thae any joint (with exception of UNILOCK) on a SEARING plays great for me. :)
 
scottycoyote said:
i like the feel of a piloted ss 5/16 14.......on the old schons whe you screw the shaft on there at the very end it gets really tight and snug.......i think thats the key. Ive shot with a couple 3/8 10 and 3/8 11 type joints and for some reason the cue just feels dead to me.

I've got a STL 7 and when I'm screwing it together it does exactly what you are saying, gets snug when you reach the piloted part. That combined with the taper of the Schon shaft give it a stiff hit.

I'm a relative beginner compared to most people on this forum, but IMO it isn't just the type of joint but who makes it. I've had two other cues with piloted ss joints the they don't hit like the Schon.
 
Do you usually prefer to see more wood being in contact at the joint?
Do you think that a flat face joint is not as tight as a piloted joint?
I do not see anyone mentioning the Lambros joint...is it because no one likes it, or just that no one has tried it?
 
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