Josswest value
- Thread starter Zeus58316
- Start date
I have had tons of Josswest cues and while I am bias, I think they are one of the most UNDER valued cues out there.
You failed to mention a lot of things that REALLY effect value. So I will state my assumptions.
1. It is all straight, and I do mean straight.
2. Since it has been refinished I would assume finish, wrap etc is 100% condition.
3. Assume that shaft is at least 12.75 mm (did I mention straight?). Bill made a lot of shafts at least 13 mm but it appears that a lot of guys hobbies were to sand them down. Remember these are probably 30+ years old and had lots of opportunity for "adjustments".
4. Only having one shaft hurts value a little, having two helps a little.
5. Veneered cues always sell better and have better value.
As is, I would list the cue at $750+.
Ken
You failed to mention a lot of things that REALLY effect value. So I will state my assumptions.
1. It is all straight, and I do mean straight.
2. Since it has been refinished I would assume finish, wrap etc is 100% condition.
3. Assume that shaft is at least 12.75 mm (did I mention straight?). Bill made a lot of shafts at least 13 mm but it appears that a lot of guys hobbies were to sand them down. Remember these are probably 30+ years old and had lots of opportunity for "adjustments".
4. Only having one shaft hurts value a little, having two helps a little.
5. Veneered cues always sell better and have better value.
As is, I would list the cue at $750+.
Ken
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I agree with Ken on all points. I have a mid 70's Hoppe that I think hits better than all my other cues, and I have a couple from top tier makers. Nice cue!
The maker not following through on the DYD cue.
Ken's spot on with his advice, imo. Having the original wrap (cortland/penn) would help the value given this is a vintage cue vs. a non-period newer leather wrap. Original shafts help on these older cues, too. Many cues this old have had a shaft replacement or two.
You should measure the dimensions of the cue. Digital calipers and a balance from Harbor Freight are not expensive. Weight of each shaft and the butt. Length of each shaft and the butt. Width of the shafts at the ferrule. All of these parameters will affect value. Older cues can be heavier and shorter than newer cues. Answering those concerns up front could make your cue more immediately attractive.
I wouldn't worry so much about one issue of image about the cuemaker. Whatever happened during Bill's retirement from cuemaking does not take away from the quality he delivered for so many years.
GLWYS
I wouldn't worry so much about one issue of image about the cuemaker. Whatever happened during Bill's retirement from cuemaking does not take away from the quality he delivered for so many years.
GLWYS
Agreed.
I think it really helps to have all of that in the original listing. Folks sometimes only look once to get the information and if isn't there, they move on to the next item. Offer the item with money back guarantee (less shipping costs), that eases a lot fears too.
I like listing here (no fees) and I have better luck with I think better folks.
I listed and sold some stuff on ebay lately and my butt hurt for days. I felt like I got raped in fee costs....:grin-square:
Ken
^^^
my post was a reply to this
all due respect ken
i consider you an upstanding citizen:wink:
That's fine, no offense taken. He asked my opinion and that was what I gave him. The ringwork is basic and this is a pretty basic cue. IMO, it probably is an incredible player cue, but I know when I sell them can be a tougher seller.
I see 4 point 4 veneer JW cues of the same vintage going from $1000-$1800.
To get over the $2000 they seem to need to have quite a bit of work in the butt and / or ivory joint.
Speaking of ivory joints, they seem to almost automatically push these to the $2K range.
Best of my rolls my friend,
ken