Just refinished this cue, please help Identify it.

[manwon]

Hello Az membership, a customer purchased this cue from a estate sale. He brought the cue to me to help him identify it, and to see if it was worth refinishing. Upon examination, I found that while this is a simple house cue conversion, it was done to a very high standard. The cues pin is 3/8-10 and fits very tight in the shaft. While the cue appears to be a house cue with a pocket cut for a wrap and a wrap added it is not. The cues forearm and butt are separately joined to an un-wrap. In fact the Purple Heart in the forearm and the butt are not the same piece of wood.
Another interesting feature is that the dimple in the pin and the hole for the wood screw that secures the bumper are perfectly concentric. When spun in the lathe using a dead and live center there is not more than two thousandth variance when tested using a dial indicator. The material used for the joint collars and the butt are the older type of Phenolic. The cues shaft is perfectly straight and the cue rolls perfect when assembled or apart. The last feature that is also unusual is that the wrap area is 8 inches in length, while the cue is 59 inches overall. The cues balance is very good and the cue hits a ton. I am going to include photo's of the cue, I wish that I had also taken photo's before I refinished it. Any information about who have may made this cue would be appreciated.











Thanks in advance!!!!!

 

[Pizza Bob]

Is that a nylon insert in the shaft? If so, that would point toward a Heubler SP. Certainly not definitive, but a good guess.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

 

[manwon]

Is that a nylon insert in the shaft? If so, that would point toward a Heubler SP. Certainly not definitive, but a good guess.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

Thanks for the post Bob, however there is no insert in the shaft. Paul Heubler's Sneaky Pete's are also Full Splice unlike this cue which has the forearm and the butt attached to an under wrap.

Thanks again and have a great day!!!!!

 

[Cue Crazy]

Wish I could help. I don't know who made the cue, but I ocasionally run accross some built simular to It with no markings, who knows who all built them. The hole in butt end was probably their center hole on the last turn atleast, but more then likely earlier on, and that's why the center works so well with minimum runnout. I guess there's no weight bolt from the looks of the pic, but usually I will do the same thing, sometimes with a weight bolt too, but I use the champer I put at the end of the bore for My centerhole. I have drilled the weight bolt for that before, so It did'nt have to be removed later, but I like removing It better and using the champer, cause If you change bolts then the centerhole may be different unless you can get It perfectly centered to drill one in It also. I found a while back that I don't even need to use a spur drive to make turns, so a standard 60 dead center does the job on the buttside for Me. I usually cut My wrap grooves, joint tenons, and everything off those same centers, and it does a good job of keeping everything concentric to the centerholes as you mention. I don't know if I'm a minority on the method, but IMO It's a good way to do things when possible. Good luck with ID-ing the cue. Looks like someone probably got a good deal on a custom SP regardless of the maker. The tight threads in the joint probably add quite a bit of feel to the cue also.

Greg

 

[manwon]

Wish I could help. I don't know who made the cue, but I ocasionally run accross some built simular to It with no markings, who knows who all built them. The hole in butt end was probably their center hole on the last turn atleast, but more then likely earlier on, and that's why the center works so well with minimum runnout. I guess there's no weight bolt from the looks of the pic, but usually I will do the same thing, sometimes with a weight bolt too, but I use the champer I put at the end of the bore for My centerhole. I have drilled the weight bolt for that before, so It did'nt have to be removed later, but I like removing It better and using the champer, cause If you change bolts then the centerhole may be different unless you can get It perfectly centered to drill one in It also. I found a while back that I don't even need to use a spur drive to make turns, so a standard 60 dead center does the job on the buttside for Me. I usually cut My wrap grooves, joint tenons, and everything off those same centers, and it does a good job of keeping everything concentric to the centerholes as you mention. I don't know if I'm a minority on the method, but IMO It's a good way to do things when possible. Good luck with ID-ing the cue. Looks like someone probably got a good deal on a custom SP regardless of the maker. The tight threads in the joint probably add quite a bit of feel to the cue also.

Greg

Thanks for the input Greg, one thing that I did add above is that I would suspect, that the was made in the late 60's or early 70's due to the components used to make. The Original Wrap was Courtland, however it was coming apart in to many pieces to save. Another thing that I find interesting is the bumper, and while I am uncertain I do not think they make them anymore in this style.

By the way, I think the technique you outlined above for the centers is a great idea, and I may also start using it myself.

Have a great day Greg!!!!!!!!

 

[Cue Crazy]

Thanks for the input Greg, one thing that I did add above is that I would suspect, that the was made in the late 60's or early 70's due to the components used to make. The Original Wrap was Courtland, however it was coming apart in to many pieces to save. Another thing that I find interesting is the bumper, and while I am uncertain I do not think they make them anymore in this style.

By the way, I think the technique you outlined above for the centers is a great idea, and I may also start using it myself.

Have a great day Greg!!!!!!!!

Yep, I remember those bumpers, but have'nt seen one on any cues coming out for a while. I think one of My older bar beaters from years ago has one that style on It too, altough It was probably made as late as the 80's, so they may be a hair different. Looks simular though. I have cues come in shop with that type also, and they are usually atleast somewhat older.

Looks like You did a nice job on the refinish BTW.

Have a good one Yourself, and keep up the good work.

Greg