Kamui tips, or it is just me??

Underclocked said:
I believe Danny Harriman told me he prefers pressed Elk Masters. I favor the Triangles and Le Pro tips. The few layered tips I've tried haven't impressed me in the least.
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Ask the Pro who is paying for his own Tip what he like. If you ask the Pro who get endorsement money from some Tip company to use their Tips. It would be like asking Tiger Woods if h was a NIKE Products Fan.

Believe at one time Tiger was getting 60 Million Bucks to be a Nike spokesman, and wear their gear...
 
Actually... I would love to buy soft, medium and hard G2s and Ultraskins to put them thru their paces.... I have the ability to test them based on hardness and COR and I can replicate repeated impacts by this weekend... I was already working on the test anyway =)

I have lots of respect for Tom Hay since he was the importer of the Moori tips in the beginning and I am sure whatever he is importing now is top notch........ The G2s are new to the scene as well...

Chris
 
CocoboloCowboy said:
Ask the Pro who is paying for his own Tip what he like. If you ask the Pro who get endorsement money from some Tip company to use their Tips. It would be like asking Tiger Woods if h was a NIKE Products Fan.

Believe at one time Tiger was getting 60 Million Bucks to be a Nike spokesman, and wear their gear...
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I pay for my tips
I use Kamui s s
 
or1pkt said:
I am a Kamui guy cause I like them regardless of price,,,it amazes me how cheap pool players are, let's assume a Kamui installed costs around $40 and will last a minimum of 6 months (more like a year unless you play hours every day) BIG DEAL!! Your average golfer will buy titleist pro v 1's at $50 bucks a dozen and will be gone in 2 weeks to a month (if you play regularly) I guess I am just venting at all the tight wads that wine about spending more than 3 dollars for a tip, which is essentially the most important part of your cue...I guess I'm one of the few that still feel as if you get what you pay for. Personally if my tip of choice costs $100 bucks and I replaced it twice a year I wouldn't blink an eye at that. JMO...
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Not all of us out here squeak when we walk. I was using premium brand X for about 2 years and decided to try premium brand Y and purchased
4 different hardnesses for testing. Cost of around $75. Settled on one and purchased 6 for retipping all my shafts. Last year I was given a premium
brand Z which has only about 2 or 3 months left in it. So being in the market I toiled with no change or experiment again. I do like the tip I'm currently playing with.

With all the good things I've read here about Ultraskins I thought what the heck, lets see what its all about and bought 2 Med tips. I cut off a nearly
unused $20 tip from a shaft I don't use since I didn't want to put myself in a bind if it turned out "I got what I paid for."

To Renfro's point, I only have about 2 hours play with this tip but I will tell you I'm extremely happy with it and seems like a step up from what I was using.
First time in 10 years I've been wowed by a tip which was a Moori M. Time will tell. That being said I need to put the other tip on my favorite shaft for the final test.
Changing 2 things is not a good test.

Could be all an allusion but I seem to have more control of spin when clocking the CB. I'm not saying I get more or less spin but more control. I clock a high
percentage of shots playing 3C so this is important to my style of play.
 
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The Renfro said:
1. Yes you can press a soft and make it a harder tip... However it may still feel softer than another tip brand pressed to the same shore hardness... The main reason people repress tips is to eliminate the break in periods.. Most manufacturers offer the same exact tip as a hard, medium or soft and simply press it to where the tip feels like the advertised hardness... If you buy one of these tips you are going to want to replace them every 4-6 weeks unless you bought the hard....

The whole idea behind the Outsville Tips was offering tips that were not based on how they were pressed but based upon changing the chemistry and getting the highest COR in each hardness grade even tho on a Shore D there is NO difference......

2. Pressing a 10.75 to an 11.75 is a different story and the answer is also yes but you would likely want to soak it again hoping the fibers would stretch and not tear during the process... Dry pressing it would likely result in deteriorating the internal structure if the internal fibers experience any tearing when being pressed....

Hope that helps....

Chris
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Yes, tremendously - thanks.

Now what do I soak it in?
 
I have a black SS still on my i3 that came stock, shaped it once, still fine, only minor issues with mushrooming, but that's probably from loaning it out to people who think you have to pound at the cue ball.

Barely miscue at all, using blue colored chalk.
 
Pathetic Shark said:
Yes, tremendously - thanks.

Now what do I soak it in?
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skim milk for 2 days and then press it... Because it will be wet the hydraulics of the liquid will make it rough action but since you are going from 10.75 to 11.75 wet pressing is likely your best bet... Let it air dry and then repress it to the hardness you want after it has dried.......

With luck the tip will maintain it's integrity....


Chris
 
The Renfro said:
With luck the tip will maintain it's integrity....
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Exactly, Chris, not every milk dud tip performs consistently well, I had 2 shafts with milk dud and they response very differently to playing and storage condition, hence different performance.
 
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