kicking off the short rail from the long rail

Scott Lee said:
One can use any "system" out there, but it is still only a starting point. Actual results will be solely dependant upon speed and spin of the stroke. Accurate kicking depends on lots of trial and error, coupled with an accurate and repeatable stroke.

Well stated Scott...

Pete
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TRWpool said:
Hi Larry,
One system you can try is the same two rail system many 9ball players use. It is the old parallel system. Split the distance between the cue ball and the ball you wish to hit. Take that point and aim towards a corner most conducive to the shot and parallel to the cue ball. Shoot with a dead center ball hit. Trying to hit balls which are very close to opposite rails are usually pretty easy to hit with this system.

With this two rail system if the ball you wish to hit is a long way from the second cushion you may need a touch of running english to hold the line. These shots have a tendency to run long of the target ball without it.

Tom
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The problem with this is that most players have a hard time judging a parallel line. There are ways to improve staying parallel, but I think you may as well just go to the "spot-on-the-wall" method:

The spot-on-the-wall technique works like this: Suppose you are kicking to the opposite side pocket from somewhere on the other long cushion. Start with the line from the side pocket on your side to the middle of the end rail. Extend that line through the end rail to double the distance. That point out in space -- about 5 feet beyond the end rail -- is the point you should aim for regardless of where the cue ball is on the first rail. It is effectively a mirror target.

This method does not require any numbers but it does require visualization and practice. The big advantages are that no numbers are involved and you can have any target on the opposite long rail. An additional huge advantage is that the cue ball does not have to be on the cushion. The spot on the wall -- if you can visualize it -- works for all cue ball origins. I recommend practicing with a ball on a bar stool in the place of the target to help visualization.

Of course this method assumes the angle in is the same as the angle out. That is not always how cushions work.
 
Bob Jewett said:
The problem with this is that most players have a hard time judging a parallel line. There are ways to improve staying parallel, but I think you may as well just go to the "spot-on-the-wall" method:

You're right about that Bob. Most players who begin to use this method make errors with the parallel to the cue ball. There is a double check which can be used to assure the correct line but practicing this system will help too.

I like the spot on the wall technique too, but the spot you choose must be a certain distance from the table or the system begins to fail at some point.
That being said, if you have an accurate point of reference, banks and kicks becomes easy.

Tom
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Agree with Bob here, I'm a fan of the spot on the wall technique for these or some simple geometric approaches that would be similar to kicking into the long rail instead of the short rail.

I also took the time to memorize certain key positions and use those as my baselines for the spot on the wall adjustments as necessary, fairly accurate and at least a good starting point from which to adjust with feel when needed.
Scott
 
scottjen26 said:
Agree with Bob here, I'm a fan of the spot on the wall technique for these or some simple geometric approaches that would be similar to kicking into the long rail instead of the short rail.

I also took the time to memorize certain key positions and use those as my baselines for the spot on the wall adjustments as necessary, fairly accurate and at least a good starting point from which to adjust with feel when needed.
Scott
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dx/x+y would work
easiest as mentioned is find a parrallel spot to the object ball
divide the distance by 2
find the aim point on the rail extend to spot on the wall
thats what i do now
 
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