laminate (LD) shaft vs. Maple?

SC02GTP

SC02GTP

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am interested in getting one or two shafts made for one of my cues. I was wanting some insight on the best way to go, maple or laminated. I see all of these LD type shafts advertised and don't see a significant advantage over standard maple. if using the same joint (5/16 14), Ferrule material and length, and the same tip, which is better and why? I am mainly looking for a shaft that has a firm hit with good feedback. I don't want to play with a wet noodle or the handle of a sledgehammer.

I would also like to hear opinions on the best set up(ferrule/tip) to acheive the kind of hit I am looking with a 5/15 14 pin/ss joint. I would like to get as close to the feel of a good Southwest if that is reasonable.
 
Have you done a 'search'?
When you do, you'll find all the 'insight' you could possibly read.
No cue-maker, or anyone else for that matter, can tell you what you would like. Only you can do that.

It sounds like you're asking for someone who doesn't know you, who's never met you, to tell you what to buy. Have you ever thought of trying any of these shafts for your self? It's your money, spend it based on what you know, not what someone tells you. That 'someone' is usually a salesman.

And no, asking for a new shaft to give you the hit of a 'good Southwest' is not reasonable. If you want the hit of a SW, buy a SW.
Southwest, as a rule, does not make steel jointed cues.
To expect that a shaft change will give you the SW hit is wishful thinking.

In all honesty, your question(s) would be better asked & addressed in the Main Section or possibly in the Reviews Section.
No CM can tell you what you will like, though 1 or 2 will try their best to convince you that they have exactly what you want.
 
hold on for a second.....

let me restate my question for you then. If a customer ordered a custom cue/shaft from you and wanted a steel joint with a SW type ballance of stiffness/feel....what are your preferances in material to acheive above goal?

I am sure the age/taper/and wood used are just a few of the factors. So are ferrule and tip selection. But what I would like to know is what set up seems to work well for a stiffer hit with decent feel.

I have read many threads on the LD shafts and I do not see where they are any better than good maple. I also see a lot of people having issues with these laminated shafts not holding up.
 
one thing to note....laminated shaft does not equal low deflection. there are laminated shafts that are regular deflection as well as one piece shafts that are low deflection. laminated wood could do a number of things, such as make the shaft heavier (denser), reduce the chance of warping or increase radial consistency, but doesn't necessarily have anything to do with reducing deflection.
 
to clarify further....deflection is caused by the weight in the front end of the shaft, about the first 6" or so. the heavier this area, the more deflection. that's why predator shafts are hollow in the front. others use smaller ferrules, lighter materials, etc. to reduce the end mass. simply laminating the wood won't do anything to reduce the weight...if anything certain types of laminates like flat laminated with lots of layers are heavier (due to the glue for all the laminations) and would increase deflection slightly.
 
SC02GTP said:
let me restate my question for you then. If a customer ordered a custom cue/shaft from you and wanted a steel joint with a SW type ballance of stiffness/feel....what are your preferances in material to acheive above goal?

If someone were to order a shaft from me with the stated stipulation/expectation that he wanted it to make his steel jointed cue hit like a SW, I'd first tell them to save their money, it can't be done. MY stated stipulation would be only if they were to attach this shaft to a SW handle and then it would only be close.
Southwest cues are phenolic collared and wood to wood faced.
You have a steel jointed cue. That's comparing apples to oranges.

I am sure the age/taper/and wood used are just a few of the factors. So are ferrule and tip selection. But what I would like to know is what set up seems to work well for a stiffer hit with decent feel.

The definition of what constitutes a 'stiffer hit with decent feel' is entirely up to you. That's just my point. No one can make that determination for you.
You are going to have to put in the time TRYING these different shafts to find the type that works best for you and satisfies your expectations.

I have read many threads on the LD shafts and I do not see where they are any better than good maple. I also see a lot of people having issues with these laminated shafts not holding up.

All shafts except for the very cheapest imports are of Maple construction, even the LD shafts are Maple construction. LD shafts are only better if you're seeking lower deflection and they do that very well. To the best of my knowledge, not one of them claims to make your cue play like a (insert brand here).
Radial consistency is an added benefit but as McChen has stated, laminated or spliced construction, by itself, has nothing to do with lowered deflection.
As far as these shafts 'not holding up', I can only say that I'm not aware, to possibly the extent you are, of these issues.

I wouldn't suggest an LD shaft for you if your primary concern is to replicate the hit of a certain cue. That's not at all what LD shafts are about.
Given the different construction methods of the different LD shafts, one could safely expect that each of these shafts would have different hit characteristics.
I can't sit here and recommend one over the other because only you are in a position to know what you want.
Click to expand...
 
I prefer mother nature over the gimmick shafts . A quality cuemaker can make you a shaft that plays great and should be cheaper than the man made . Hit with someone elses cues and then decide what you like as far as taper and size ... good luck ...:eek::cool:;)
 
If you want less deflection level your cue stick quit using so much english and don't get out of line with out deflection you lose a lot of necessary shots just in case you do get out of line almost forgot loosen up your back hand
 
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SC02GTP said:
I am interested in getting one or two shafts made for one of my cues. I was wanting some insight on the best way to go, maple or laminated. I see all of these LD type shafts advertised and don't see a significant advantage over standard maple. if using the same joint (5/16 14), Ferrule material and length, and the same tip, which is better and why? I am mainly looking for a shaft that has a firm hit with good feedback. I don't want to play with a wet noodle or the handle of a sledgehammer.

I would also like to hear opinions on the best set up(ferrule/tip) to acheive the kind of hit I am looking with a 5/15 14 pin/ss joint. I would like to get as close to the feel of a good Southwest if that is reasonable.
Click to expand...

Lamination has nothing to do with deflection. The bored hole and light ferrule do. Unfortunately, that kills a lot of the feel.
If you want the SW feel, you'll have to get a parabolic tapered cue with stiff shafts . And that joint.
You're making this waaaay too complicated imo.
 
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