Lathe for tips ect.

You have completely missed the point of my original post. I have no problem with the OP asking a question. My problem was him calling the person who answered his question an A HOLE. When you come on here and ask a question, even if you don't like the answer, don't be rude!!!

Larry
 
63Kcode said:
You have completely missed the point of my original post. I have no problem with the OP asking a question. My problem was him calling the person who answered his question an A HOLE. When you come on here and ask a question, even if you don't like the answer, don't be rude!!!

Larry
Click to expand...

I agree his response was uncalled for,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
Since I have been through this bs before of asking how to start in tip changes and being destroyed for asking for free advice I will tell you how I got started for the CHEAPEST way possible.

Call Taig lathes direct.

Order the following

Headstock with the larger bore . You actually have to specify that to them. The regular headstock will not let a shaft go through. The larger bore will let about 1/2 of shaft to go through. I think is .560 diameter for the larger one. 60$ some

4 jaw chuck. 65$ ish
Fully assembled Carrige 75$ ish
Rack 12$
Drilling tail stock 40$ ish and if you want to get the Jacobs chuck from them. If not you can find them on eBay for dirt cheap.

The lathe bed question.
If you can't afford it now just get one TAIG lathe bed at 60$ if you can afford some more just talk to any of the big 3 (Hightower, Bassel, midcueamerica) to sell you a long 48" hard aluminum bed. Worth every penny but not necessary to start.

Get the taig stedy rest and buy a ballbearing to super glue inside the whole after removing the bolts and the metal things. Then just glue a piece of leather inside and you have a super cheap stedy rest for shafts. I have been using one like this since day one with great success.

Motor

Surplus center. Com

They have a great deal of motors but if you really want to invest in a future proof motor just buy the

Penn state industries midi motor variable speed. It's 1/2 hp and it's fantastic. Used the shit out of mine and I only had to change the charchol pads once in 2 years.the penn motor in 120$. Do not get that little sowing machine shit from ebay. I did and it's a waste of 20$.

Buy the pully's from taig for your headstock and the pully for your motor. Again the big 3 sell these pulley's.

Attach the motor to the headstock with a aluminum angle.

Buy the harbour freight indexable carbide tool bits. Great for how much you pay for them.

Buy the atlas billiards collets at 5$ a piece they are fantastic. Get a variety of sizes . I have 10.5/11/11.25/11.5/11.75/12/12.25/12.5/12.75/13 that is 50$ In collets but they are great.

Assemble all this and you have a nice beginner lathe for tips and ferulles.

Total cost is under 500$ give or take.

WHAT Will eat you alive is the cost of the supplies and the little things you will buy here and there .

Practice on some shit shafts first with some elk master tips since they are dirt cheap before putting a customers shaft in your lathe.

Start putting tips on for people.

Reinvest all your profits in parts and upgrades.

Where there is a will there is a way and don't be discouraged by all the idiots lingering around here. There are some people that helped me a lot and I recommend them any day. Joeyincali, Tom hay, cueman,Ryan at rat cues and so forth.


As always you can never go wrong with getting a turn key package from Bassel, Hightower or midcueamerica. They are great people to deal with and I always recommend them.

Let me know if you have any other questions.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just think, if this was a sticky, this thread wouldn't exist, and the would be OP would have had his answer, more or less.
Dave
 
cueman said:
Yes they are common, but really should be rare. My son came on here for a short time and decided he would rather spend his time elsewhere than put up with what he had to put up with on here.

I can tell you he had a good bit to offer this forum when it comes to knowledge about inlay work, computers and such, but he asked some simple questions just trying to be friendly and he got Smart answers like he should already know the answer or just ask his dad and so on. There is a good thing I think people should do and that is just don't respond to a post if they can't offer any useful information.
Click to expand...

You're a level headed man Chris.

I suppose most people don't think to add "I've searched xxxx and xxxx, but haven't gotten any results", but that would help everyone to know the guy has at least tried to find his own information.

I've know a master cuemaker for twenty years and seldom give him a call as I can find nearly everything I need with the search function.

That being said and with the amount of money I've wasted buying the wrong things....
I bought one of these things(used, but in good condition) and it ran so rough because of the way the variable speed drive is designed(it's 2 convex discs with the belt in the middle. They have a spring that keeps them together and when you turn the lever the discs separate, which increases the ratio) that I threw it in the trash.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Wood-Lathe-With-Digital-Readout/G0462
 
pescadoman said:
You're a level headed man Chris.

I suppose most people don't think to add "I've searched xxxx and xxxx, but haven't gotten any results", but that would help everyone to know the guy has at least tried to find his own information.

I've know a master cuemaker for twenty years and seldom give him a call as I can find nearly everything I need with the search function.

That being said and with the amount of money I've wasted buying the wrong things....
I bought one of these things(used, but in good condition) and it ran so rough because of the way the variable speed drive is designed(it's 2 convex discs with the belt in the middle. They have a spring that keeps them together and when you turn the lever the discs separate, which increases the ratio) that I threw it in the trash.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Wood-Lathe-With-Digital-Readout/G0462
Click to expand...

Maybe a sticky stating that wood lathes are generally impractical for cue repair would help. I didn't search,,,,,,,,,, there may be one.
 
Enigmaticul said:
Since I have been through this bs before of asking how to start in tip changes and being destroyed for asking for free advice I will tell you how I got started for the CHEAPEST way possible.

Call Taig lathes direct.

Order the following

Headstock with the larger bore . You actually have to specify that to them. The regular headstock will not let a shaft go through. The larger bore will let about 1/2 of shaft to go through. I think is .560 diameter for the larger one. 60$ some

4 jaw chuck. 65$ ish
Fully assembled Carrige 75$ ish
Rack 12$
Drilling tail stock 40$ ish and if you want to get the Jacobs chuck from them. If not you can find them on eBay for dirt cheap.

The lathe bed question.
If you can't afford it now just get one TAIG lathe bed at 60$ if you can afford some more just talk to any of the big 3 (Hightower, Bassel, midcueamerica) to sell you a long 48" hard aluminum bed. Worth every penny but not necessary to start.

Get the taig stedy rest and buy a ballbearing to super glue inside the whole after removing the bolts and the metal things. Then just glue a piece of leather inside and you have a super cheap stedy rest for shafts. I have been using one like this since day one with great success.

Motor

Surplus center. Com

They have a great deal of motors but if you really want to invest in a future proof motor just buy the

Penn state industries midi motor variable speed. It's 1/2 hp and it's fantastic. Used the shit out of mine and I only had to change the charchol pads once in 2 years.the penn motor in 120$. Do not get that little sowing machine shit from ebay. I did and it's a waste of 20$.

Buy the pully's from taig for your headstock and the pully for your motor. Again the big 3 sell these pulley's.

Attach the motor to the headstock with a aluminum angle.

Buy the harbour freight indexable carbide tool bits. Great for how much you pay for them.

Buy the atlas billiards collets at 5$ a piece they are fantastic. Get a variety of sizes . I have 10.5/11/11.25/11.5/11.75/12/12.25/12.5/12.75/13 that is 50$ In collets but they are great.

Assemble all this and you have a nice beginner lathe for tips and ferulles.

Total cost is under 500$ give or take.

WHAT Will eat you alive is the cost of the supplies and the little things you will buy here and there .

Practice on some shit shafts first with some elk master tips since they are dirt cheap before putting a customers shaft in your lathe.

Start putting tips on for people.

Reinvest all your profits in parts and upgrades.

Where there is a will there is a way and don't be discouraged by all the idiots lingering around here. There are some people that helped me a lot and I recommend them any day. Joeyincali, Tom hay, cueman,Ryan at rat cues and so forth.


As always you can never go wrong with getting a turn key package from Bassel, Hightower or midcueamerica. They are great people to deal with and I always recommend them.

Let me know if you have any other questions.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

looks like you covered it all..........

nice

Kim
 
Enigmaticul said:
Practice on some shit shafts first with some elk master tips since they are dirt cheap before putting a customers shaft in your lathe.

Start putting tips on for people.
Click to expand...

I have about 5 or six junk shafts I can send the OP to practice on. I have no use for them, although you could practice cleaning, reconditioning, dent removal/filling, tips, ferrules, all without ruining someones Gina... You could even cut them down to size and sell them as pocket chalkers or key chains. PM me.
 
Pm me if you would like a picture of my full size Shopfox lathe with a simple jig I built to install tips.
 
Enigmaticul said:
Since I have been through this bs before of asking how to start in tip changes and being destroyed for asking for free advice I will tell you how I got started for the CHEAPEST way possible.

Call Taig lathes direct.

Order the following

Headstock with the larger bore . You actually have to specify that to them. The regular headstock will not let a shaft go through. The larger bore will let about 1/2 of shaft to go through. I think is .560 diameter for the larger one. 60$ some

4 jaw chuck. 65$ ish
Fully assembled Carrige 75$ ish
Rack 12$
Drilling tail stock 40$ ish and if you want to get the Jacobs chuck from them. If not you can find them on eBay for dirt cheap.

The lathe bed question.
If you can't afford it now just get one TAIG lathe bed at 60$ if you can afford some more just talk to any of the big 3 (Hightower, Bassel, midcueamerica) to sell you a long 48" hard aluminum bed. Worth every penny but not necessary to start.

Get the taig stedy rest and buy a ballbearing to super glue inside the whole after removing the bolts and the metal things. Then just glue a piece of leather inside and you have a super cheap stedy rest for shafts. I have been using one like this since day one with great success.

Motor

Surplus center. Com

They have a great deal of motors but if you really want to invest in a future proof motor just buy the

Penn state industries midi motor variable speed. It's 1/2 hp and it's fantastic. Used the shit out of mine and I only had to change the charchol pads once in 2 years.the penn motor in 120$. Do not get that little sowing machine shit from ebay. I did and it's a waste of 20$.

Buy the pully's from taig for your headstock and the pully for your motor. Again the big 3 sell these pulley's.

Attach the motor to the headstock with a aluminum angle.

Buy the harbour freight indexable carbide tool bits. Great for how much you pay for them.

Buy the atlas billiards collets at 5$ a piece they are fantastic. Get a variety of sizes . I have 10.5/11/11.25/11.5/11.75/12/12.25/12.5/12.75/13 that is 50$ In collets but they are great.

Assemble all this and you have a nice beginner lathe for tips and ferulles.

Total cost is under 500$ give or take.

WHAT Will eat you alive is the cost of the supplies and the little things you will buy here and there .

Practice on some shit shafts first with some elk master tips since they are dirt cheap before putting a customers shaft in your lathe.

Start putting tips on for people.

Reinvest all your profits in parts and upgrades.

Where there is a will there is a way and don't be discouraged by all the idiots lingering around here. There are some people that helped me a lot and I recommend them any day. Joeyincali, Tom hay, cueman,Ryan at rat cues and so forth.


As always you can never go wrong with getting a turn key package from Bassel, Hightower or midcueamerica. They are great people to deal with and I always recommend them.

Let me know if you have any other questions.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You can go for less money yet. Order the kit (dont remember the number) from cartertools
Has the larger headstock ,carriage ,rack ,toolpost and bed for about 160 maybe a little more now
1/3 Hp motor and controller Find what lathe uses that from HF and order from the parts dept for less than 100.00
Pulleys 5.00 to 10.00 at McMaster-Carr maybe MSC
 
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