Lathe
- Thread starter JSS
- Start date
14 by 40 what????
Wood lathe or metal lathe?
The taper attachment on metal lathes is only good for 12 inches or so.
Not 30 inches.
But, you can buy an adjustable taper attachment from Hightower.
Joey~Hates missing details~
Wood lathe or metal lathe?
The taper attachment on metal lathes is only good for 12 inches or so.
Not 30 inches.
But, you can buy an adjustable taper attachment from Hightower.
Joey~Hates missing details~
You can use the taper attachment for building tapered collets which will allow you to chuck up on the od of the cue. For tapering long sections you can offest the tail stock and turn between centers. Tip..when offseting your tailstock put a dial on the side when adjusting and record the amount you move it. That way you can move it back the exact amount. Maintaing your centre line. I usualy stick a piece of masking tape on the top of the tailstock and record the number there.
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Offsetting the tailstock will work great, a good amount to offset is .205"
That will give you .840" at the joint and 1.250" at the bottom.
IF I MAY offer one simple respectful disagreement? Do not trust your tailstock to be perfectly set by using the indicator to return it to center. Use the indicator mounted on your spindle and indicate to two sides of the tailstock barrel. Turn a 30" piece and use your micrometer at each end to see they are both the same diameter, if one is larger, you're not aligned.
Tapered Collets can also be made by offsetting your compound miter to the angle of the cue. Either way would produce a great result.
I have a few test bars I made and to double check my alignment I put one between centers and run a dial over the length. There are many ways of checking the TS but I have found that to be the quickest. It doesnt account for bed wear or a out of level but gets you pretty darn close. Indicating the quill works great too just depnds on what dial indicators you have handy at the moment and is easier to set up.
A 14" x 40" metal lathe is the ideal cue lathe, as long as the through bore is atleast 1.417"
Offsetting the tailstock for tapering is very easy, just make sure you have a alignment rod, so you easily can get back to zero.
Making a taper bar is not the most complicated thing, Bob Dzuricky has a basic description on his side, or you could get the Deco taper bar system.
I highly recomend a quick change toolpost (BXA is fine) have a toolmaker make you a horizontal and vertical router mount that fits right on your QCTP, that makes setting up for tapering or threading a breeze.
6 Jaw chucks are nice, but a properly dialed in 3 jaw, will work just fine. Get a quality live center and a few good drill chucks.
DRO makes life even simpler, but it`s by no means a must.
Offsetting the tailstock for tapering is very easy, just make sure you have a alignment rod, so you easily can get back to zero.
Making a taper bar is not the most complicated thing, Bob Dzuricky has a basic description on his side, or you could get the Deco taper bar system.
I highly recomend a quick change toolpost (BXA is fine) have a toolmaker make you a horizontal and vertical router mount that fits right on your QCTP, that makes setting up for tapering or threading a breeze.
6 Jaw chucks are nice, but a properly dialed in 3 jaw, will work just fine. Get a quality live center and a few good drill chucks.
DRO makes life even simpler, but it`s by no means a must.
I saw a taper bar set up on a Grizzly Lathe from memory, that used a cross slide from a taig lathe, mounted onto a linear bearing block on the cross slide. What I liked about it was that the normal turning tools could be used without too much time in the change over. Only required the removing of the follower bar and the router off the top of the Taig slide.
He had quite a few different follower bars, set up with different sized follower bearings to match the diameter of his cutters. I also like the way that if any chips/swarf got between the follower and the roller, it was a no cut situation instead of a dig in take more cut situation.
Neil
He had quite a few different follower bars, set up with different sized follower bearings to match the diameter of his cutters. I also like the way that if any chips/swarf got between the follower and the roller, it was a no cut situation instead of a dig in take more cut situation.
Neil