Lathe

bubsbug

bubsbug

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I think I may have a problem. When attaching lathe to taper bars. Does the cross slide like in PIC 1 get attacked to taper bars. or does compound like in pic 2 get attched. If pic one does then I put my machine to close to the wall. And this is a hell of a lot of work for one man to move. I have about maybe 2 inches of play before I hit the wall and before the slide tries to re-engage.
 

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Most people attach the crossslide to the taper bar, then use the compound to adjust the depth of cut. Looks like you'll be moving you lathe again.:(
 
cutter said:
Most people attach the crossslide to the taper bar, then use the compound to adjust the depth of cut. Looks like you'll be moving you lathe again.:(
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Anyone Know the minimum distance I need from back of lathe casting to wall. Right Now I have 11-1/4 inches. Looks like I will be renting engine lift again??? Just my luck!!
 
I too had my lathe to close to the wall when the riggers set it in place with a forklift. I used a long 2x4 as a lever to push the lathe away from the brick wall, one side at a time. It just took a few minutes for my approximately 800lb lathe.
 
bubsbug said:
Anyone Know the minimum distance I need from back of lathe casting to wall. Right Now I have 11-1/4 inches. Looks like I will be renting engine lift again??? Just my luck!!
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I suggest 20 inches, 18 absolute minimum.

Also, I agree with the once rich guy. If your lathe is bolted to some stands, I would think you should be able to slide each end an inch at a time doing something like he suggested and get there.

Kelly
 
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Thanks all! It is on stand with some sheep levelers. Im afraid to move it to much, I dont know that I trust them. How level does a lathe have to be as long as it is rtraight in relation to itself. Lots of snow in central indiana, No school, No work. Hip,Hip Hooray!!!!!!!!!!!
 
bottle jack....push off wall....the valve/lever needs to be on the underside of the jack to keep from pumpin air........be SURE that you a pushing the LATHE and NOT the wall !!! go slow...alternate between lathe ends.



get a LARGE crow bar......from end of lathe..bar centered under the stand and angled about 30 deg AWAY from wall....lift lathe slightly...1/8th...1/4 "..........pivot bar towards wall...should move it....alternate between ends...go slow !!!


lathe does NOT have to be "level".......the bed ways NEED to be straight..left to right.......front to back.........diagonally across corners.....needs to be in a true flat plane, NO "twist"

big ships that have onboard machine shops have lathes that are never LEVEL.......due to the motion of the ocean (LOL)
 
LOU'S CUE'S said:
bottle jack....push off wall....the valve/lever needs to be on the underside of the jack to keep from pumpin air........be SURE that you a pushing the LATHE and NOT the wall !!! go slow...alternate between lathe ends.
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I moved my mill with a JackAll in a similar fashion, worked great ! No worries about the pump/oil with a JackAll, and more range as I needed to push the mill four feet or so. Also, I pushed in the middle, which could be done to a lathe by putting a 4x4 across both legs.

Dave, doesn't own a bottle jack :o
 
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