Layered tip care

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i couldnt find a link although im sure this has been discussed
i know you are not supposed to use a pic on that type of tip
i think i read when shaping pull down and not up so that the force is not to separate the layers
but what about shapers that require you to spin/twist the shaft dor shaping like the utimate tip tool or the various cubes that have scuffer/shaper sides?
any advice to my questions
or general advice about layered tip care
thanks
 
Buy yourself a Willard shaper, in dime or nickle size, which ever you like, and use it to keep the chalk buid-up to a minimum. Using this tool will also maintain the shape of your tip. That's all you'll need to do.
When the residue in the bootom of the Willard becomes difficult to get out, use a small wire brush. These can be found at any Ace Hardware store, and look very much like an oversized tooth brush.
When the Willard begins to take an inordinant amount of time to work, it is worn out and needs replacing. :smile:
 
Tramp Steamer said:
Buy yourself a Willard shaper, in dime or nickle size, which ever you like, and use it to keep the chalk buid-up to a minimum. Using this tool will also maintain the shape of your tip. That's all you'll need to do.
When the residue in the bootom of the Willard becomes difficult to get out, use a small wire brush. These can be found at any Ace Hardware store, and look very much like an oversized tooth brush.
When the Willard begins to take an inordinant amount of time to work, it is worn out and needs replacing. :smile:
Click to expand...

This right on the money.:thumbup:
 
Cuetec Bowtie Shaper

I have a lot of different sharers and gadgets, but I just bought a Cuetec Bowtie shaper and it really works great. Has a built in tip pick too.

When you use it, it really doesn't take much to rough up a tip...unlike the others.

Only $10 shipping was included.:thumbup:
 
I use about a 2" square of 80 grit sandpaper and brush the tip very lightly every few days. I shoot with a Moori III and they last for 6-9 months or longer playing 2-3 times a week. When I used Kamui Blacks, I used the same method but brushed every few racks.

Cheap solution and works well for me. :cool:
 
thanks for your replies
but all i want to know are tip shapers like the willard/ultimate tip tool etc where you are making a clock wise counter clockwise motion
or back and forth like trying to start a fire is ok for the tip
 
OneIron said:
I use about a 2" square of 80 grit sandpaper and brush the tip very lightly every few days. I shoot with a Moori III and they last for 6-9 months or longer playing 2-3 times a week. When I used Kamui Blacks, I used the same method but brushed every few racks.

Cheap solution and works well for me. :cool:
Click to expand...

I use 150 grit before each day of play.
 
bbb said:
thanks for your replies
but all i want to know are tip shapers like the willard/ultimate tip tool etc where you are making a clock wise counter clockwise motion
or back and forth like trying to start a fire is ok for the tip
Click to expand...

If you are right handed then hold the Willard shaper in the fingers of your left hand. The cut out (tip shape guage) on the edge of the tool is a good place to hook a finger onto. Hold the butt of your shaft with the right hand.
Place the cue tip into the cup of the shaper and rotate back and forth keeping the shaper square to the shaft. You don't have to jam it in hard. Let the shaper do the work.
When all the chalk has been removed from the radius of the tip you are done. This accomplishes two things. First: It removes the layer of old caked on chalk, and second: It maintanes the desired tip radius.
What ever you do, don't place the shaper on the floor, holding it with your foot, and grind the hell out of your cue tip like some of your friends at the pool hall might recommend. :smile:
 
I've used a 4Ever tip tool for a year on a Kamui Black soft tip. It works very well. I play about 2 hours a day. Once every couple of weeks I use the flat side (it's like a tip pick but much less "invasive?"). I've only needed to use the shaper side twice in one year.

I can't imagine using a shaper just to roughen up the tip to keep it from glazing and to hold chalk better. It seems like taking of tip that doesn't need to be taken off; it just needs to be roughed up a bit.
 
bbb said:
i couldnt find a link although im sure this has been discussed
i know you are not supposed to use a pic on that type of tip
i think i read when shaping pull down and not up so that the force is not to separate the layers
but what about shapers that require you to spin/twist the shaft dor shaping like the utimate tip tool or the various cubes that have scuffer/shaper sides?
any advice to my questions
or general advice about layered tip care
thanks
Click to expand...

A tip tapper is all I've ever used on my Kamui SS!!
 
80 grit sand paper for putting the right radius on the tip, a 120-150 grit fingernail file for the glaze removal.
 
layered tips are to be handled with care. More often than not all grinding tools in unexperienced hands just kill the tip (layeres are ripped off, etc.) Usually the only thing you need is to "de-glaze" the tip, as glazing is what happens to layered tips regularly (though I know a couple of brands which do not).
That said, you need a gentle tapper, or a Kamui Gator Grip, or a tool which offers similar "grit".
 
I've been using the Kamuii Gator with great success on my Kamuii SS tips. Personally, you can use whatever method you want as long as you're careful. I've used a tip pik on my layered tips before and have NEVER had a problem in many years. I'm on the side of why use a shaper if you all you want to do is scuff/deglaze it? But if it's your thing...it's your thing.
 
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