LD Shaft and BHE

devindra

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I just ordered a low deflection shaft and was wondering if it made sense to use back hand english with it? I have heard that you have to bridge at long lengths and front hand english is probably better. With BHE if I were to bridge a couple of inches off my pivot point using a LD shaft would I miss?
 
It depends....

devindra said:
I just ordered a low deflection shaft and was wondering if it made sense to use back hand english with it? I have heard that you have to bridge at long lengths and front hand english is probably better. With BHE if I were to bridge a couple of inches off my pivot point using a LD shaft would I miss?


It depends on which low deflection shaft. There are different reasons for the low deflection and for the benefits that they provide.

If you're planning on using BHE don't get a LD shaft for the reason that it is LD.

I had a low deflection shaft a predator 314. The radial lamination adds to the integirty of the shaft and makes it harder for it to warp.

I use BHE so I cut off the ferule and drilled out the foam core and added a new tenon and ferule.

It worked great and became one of my most solid hitting cues.

Jaden
 
Bump for this question. Any views from other scientists? I've wondered the same. If BHE is the best way to use english, then what's so good about a cue where you would have to bridge so far back to use it? Isn't one incompatible with the other?

I have a fairly low squirt cue (small tip, light ferrule) but not a real LD cue like Predator or OB. Still, my pivot point is so far back that BHE is difficult to use. And, in my experience, BHE doesn't work for many shots at moderate speed because of throw. It's pretty impressive, though, when you're really nailing the ball and you don't have to guess about how much squirt you're going to get.
 
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Rich93 said:
Bump for this question. Any views from other scientists? I've wondered the same. If BHE is the best way to use english, then what's so good about a cue where you would have to bridge so far back to use it? Isn't one incompatible with the other?

Yes, theoretically you want your pivot point at your bridge hand in order to use BHE accurately.

But I think lots of players use BHE like they use aiming systems: as an approximate starting place and a systematic approach that "assists" them in making squirt corrections by feel. If this is true for you, then it might not matter too much if your pivot point doesn't exactly match your bridge length. It might be more important to have the systematic approach and approximate starting place than to have an exact method (that's usually inexact anyway because of swerve).

I have a fairly low deflection cue (small tip, light ferrule) but not a real LD cue like Predator or OB. Still, my pivot point is so far back that BHE is difficult to use.

You just might be one of those (like me) for whom these systems aren't the best way.

And, in my experience, BHE doesn't work for many shots at moderate speed because of throw.

I think you mean because of swerve, which is a much bigger effect than throw and much more sensitive to speed.

pj
chgo
 
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practice strokes with verification

stroke verification , shows stroke! ( any cue, including LD shafts )mark
 
Patrick Johnson said:
You just might be one of those (like me) for whom these systems aren't the best way.

I am.

I think you mean because of swerve, which is a much bigger effect than throw and much more sensitive to speed.

Well, I meant throw but your point is a good one. Shall we say because of "thwerve"? They go in the same direction and opposite to squirt, e.g., when squirt => aim thinner, thwerve => aim thicker.
 
AtLarge said:
Here's a related thread you might want to read:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=108288

Thanks for the link. I missed that one during one of my lengthy pool holidays. I especially liked your post and, as always, pj's posts.

Personal conclusion: As much as I'd like to buy a better game, I'll stick with my 25 year old original shafts and work on compensating better for squirt-thwerve with them. That way the ghost of Ray Schuler won't haunt me either.
 
Rich93 said:
Thanks for the link. I missed that one during one of my lengthy pool holidays. I especially liked your post and, as always, pj's posts.

Personal conclusion: As much as I'd like to buy a better game, I'll stick with my 25 year old original shafts and work on compensating better for squirt-thwerve with them. That way the ghost of Ray Schuler won't haunt me either.

lol. I once stood in Ray's shop in Palantine (sp?) and asked if he would put his joint on a predator blank. You'd think I was asking for him to sacrifice his first born child. The cigar stub never left his mouth, but it sure was bouncing around a lot.

But we did go on to have a fun afternoon of conversation about lots of stuff...And Ivan Lee even winked at me and suggested quietly HE would do the predator shaft ;-)
 
mikepage said:
lol. I once stood in Ray's shop in Palantine (sp?) and asked if he would put his joint on a predator blank. You'd think I was asking for him to sacrifice his first born child. The cigar stub never left his mouth, but it sure was bouncing around a lot.

But we did go on to have a fun afternoon of conversation about lots of stuff...And Ivan Lee even winked at me and suggested quietly HE would do the predator shaft ;-)

And I'm sure he made you play 3C with him too. He loved talking and playing with customers so much, I often wondered how he found time to make cues and run the shop. I guess that's why there was an Ivan.:smile:

It's no surprise that your Predator request went down hard with Ray - he was so proud of his shafts and the various tapers he offered. What was below the joint wasn't so important to him. The shafts he made for me 25 years ago are still going strong - I'll will them to my grandchildren.

Rich <----- with Ray smiling down on me
 
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