LD shaft for breaking cue

O

osama

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi guys,

I tried to search around but didn't find a solid answer. So, if this was answered 12997 times before, Please say it gently and pass over the links. :o

Sometimes, I just get lazy and just break with my playing cue. I noticed that I break better with it than with my Breaking cue. Both cues are the same apart from the LD Shaft on my playing cue.

I was wondering if other people have noticed this as well? I always thought solid shafts are better for breaking, but this doesn't seem to be the case with me. :confused:

Now I might be considering getting an LD Shaft with Samsara tip for my breaking cue and buy a dedicated Jump Cue. Is this wise or I'm I just acting crazy? :confused:

side notes:
My Playing cue is a Cuetec Black Pearl Cue with R360 or Predator 314-2 shafts (18.6 oz) . My Break/Jump cue is also Cuetec with SST shaft (19.5oz).

My breaking performance is good despite not using that much power. 60% of the time, I pocket at least one ball and get a nice spread with no clusters. 40% is where I get a nice spread, but with no balls pocketed. Making it an easy run out for my opponent.
 
Are you making better contact with the head ball breaking with your playing cue? Or is it something else "better" than breaking with the break cue?
 
ScottK said:
Are you making better contact with the head ball breaking with your playing cue? Or is it something else "better" than breaking with the break cue?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the question. I get more "power" out of it for the same amount of effort I put into my Breaking cue. This often results in more balls getting pocketed at the break. At the same time, I feel it is much easier to control the cue ball and keep it in the center of the table.

I would like to just swing my body forward to get more acceleration, but I got a bad back and this is very hard to do at least at the moment. :o
 
Maybe you just like breaking with a softer leather tip?

If you hit the cueball in the center when breaking, I don't know why a LD Shaft would help.

I think you should just break with a cue you like, then just get a jump cue for jumping.

I like using a Triangle tip on my break cue but I only play bar room eight ball on a bar box.:smile:
 
poolguy4u said:
Maybe you just like breaking with a softer leather tip?

If you hit the cueball in the center when breaking, I don't know why a LD Shaft would help.

I think you should just break with a cue you like, then just get a jump cue for jumping.

I like using a Triangle tip on my break cue but I only play bar room eight ball on a bar box.:smile:
Click to expand...

If you always hit the cueball in the center when breaking then an LD shaft won't help. However, nobody on the planet always hits the cueball in the center when breaking. Every time the OP trys to hit the CB in the center and inadvertently hits off center, the cueball will squirt and the contact on the apex ball will not be as solid which will mean less force going into the rack and most likely less balls pocketed on average. An LD shaft for breaking is extremely important as it will allow the cueball to stay closer to the original aim line (when you inadvertently hit off center) and more often than not you will get a much fuller hit on the apex ball and impart more power into the rack and on average make more balls (you should also scratch less often on the break)

Getting an LD break shaft with a hard tip will allow the OP to consistently break better than with a non LD break shaft.
 
I've been using an OB Break Shaft w/ Samsara JB tip for a long time, and I'm real happy with it. I use it on an X-Breaker butt - one of them that Samsara made at the end. (I use a dedicated jump cue.)
Arguing over LD vs not LD is as useless as tits on a boar, and I'm often amazed at how many folks are willing to waste their time in the effort. There is, inarguably, a cost and effect either way. In the end, the only thing that matters is what provides results that YOU are happy with.
Best of luck!
 
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I use Bob Danielson LD-shaft to break a it works fantastic. I have some for sale also you have to try it I know you will love it. .
 
I have broken a few racks with my playing cue w/LD shaft, getting very good results every time. I'm just afraid to knock hell out of the cue ball time and time again with a shaft that is hollow in the last five inches and its parts are being held together with glue. This just seems like an accident waiting to happen, imo...but I guess if there are such things as laminated break shafts (and apparently there are), it must be okay to break with one. Are the laminated break shafts hollow (or foam filled) at the tip end like a playing shaft?

I've got enough $$$ invested in break cues that I'm not going to scrap them now, anyways!!!

Maniac
 
Maniac said:
Are the laminated break shafts hollow (or foam filled) at the tip end like a playing shaft?
Maniac
Click to expand...

Maniac,

Our break shaft (OB) is laminated and is hollowed out and then filled with foam in the front end. Our shaft has a lifetime warranty, if the laminations ever come apart then we replace the shaft free of charge. AFAIK, most laminated break shafts are not hollow in the front.
 
OP, what Shane said is where I was going with my question.

Based on your response I gather you don't even realize you're not hitting the rack as square with your break cue.
Breaking with a LD shaft is a good option, but you should also learn to hit closer to the center of the cue ball when you break.
 
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In my experience, whenever I use my playing cue to break I know I swing softer, and not just to keep the end of my OB1 shaft from blowing into pieces (which I know won't happen cuz I can't possibly swing that hard anyway), but also so I don't bang my playing cue into the edge of the table and ding the clear coat.

A softer break stroke pretty much guarantees a much more centered hit on the cue ball and a much more squarely hit rack, which leads to a much better break. So, it really begs the question why some players swing like a gorilla. Swinging as hard as you can, but glancing off the rack doesn't get you very far.

On a side note, the guys at OB are the best I've dealt with in the industry and they fully stand behind their product. Just based on their customer service alone I would recommend them over all the other LD shaft makers, not to mention I have tried almost every LD shaft on the market and I just like the OB1 best. To each their own though.
 
I use an OB Break cue with the stock Samsara tip... not because it's LD (it is), but because its pivot point is about 13" and matches my preferred bridge length perfectly.

That means I can really crank it without worrying too much about missing the vertical center of the CB, since any unintended deflection is canceled out by the pivot length.
 
osama said:
Hi guys,

I tried to search around but didn't find a solid answer. So, if this was answered 12997 times before, Please say it gently and pass over the links. :o

Sometimes, I just get lazy and just break with my playing cue. I noticed that I break better with it than with my Breaking cue. Both cues are the same apart from the LD Shaft on my playing cue.

I was wondering if other people have noticed this as well? I always thought solid shafts are better for breaking, but this doesn't seem to be the case with me. :confused:

Now I might be considering getting an LD Shaft with Samsara tip for my breaking cue and buy a dedicated Jump Cue. Is this wise or I'm I just acting crazy? :confused:

side notes:
My Playing cue is a Cuetec Black Pearl Cue with R360 or Predator 314-2 shafts (18.6 oz) . My Break/Jump cue is also Cuetec with SST shaft (19.5oz).

My breaking performance is good despite not using that much power. 60% of the time, I pocket at least one ball and get a nice spread with no clusters. 40% is where I get a nice spread, but with no balls pocketed. Making it an easy run out for my opponent.
Click to expand...
Here is a summary of important factors related to break cue selection:
- the break cue should have a weight that is optimal for you.
- the tip should be as hard as possible to maximize tip efficiency.
- the natural pivot length of the cue should be well matched to your preferred break bridge length. Many people use a longer bridge length for the break, so an LD shaft (with a longer natural pivot length) is probably a good choice.

For more info, see the break technique and equipment advice resource page.

Enjoy,
Dave
 
I went to a bar box tournament yesterday and people had $29 dollar K-Mart decal cues and were smashing the racks hard and making balls on every break.:eek:

Just shows you don't need an LD Shaft or special break tip to break good and the amount of squirt really doesn't matter. These were APA amateur handicap #5, beer drinking bar box bangers.:wink:

A special break cue or shaft would not of made a difference.:smile:
 
I have done exactly what you are thinking about doing. I put phenolic on a Predator and put it on the my break cue. Breaks like a sledgehammer. I have a designated jump cue ( James Hanshew ) AWESOME jumper. On my regular play cue, I use a maple shaft, no LD for me.
 
shanesinnott said:
If you always hit the cueball in the center when breaking then an LD shaft won't help. However, nobody on the planet always hits the cueball in the center when breaking. Every time the OP trys to hit the CB in the center and inadvertently hits off center, the cueball will squirt and the contact on the apex ball will not be as solid which will mean less force going into the rack and most likely less balls pocketed on average. An LD shaft for breaking is extremely important as it will allow the cueball to stay closer to the original aim line (when you inadvertently hit off center) and more often than not you will get a much fuller hit on the apex ball and impart more power into the rack and on average make more balls (you should also scratch less often on the break)

Getting an LD break shaft with a hard tip will allow the OP to consistently break better than with a non LD break shaft.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation. This really explains exactly what I feel when I'm breaking with an LD shaft. :)
 
ScottK said:
OP, what Shane said is where I was going with my question.

Based on your response I gather you don't even realize you're not hitting the rack as square with your break cue.
Breaking with a LD shaft is a good option, but you should also learn to hit closer to the center of the cue ball when you break.
Click to expand...

I didn't realize it until it was explained to me by Shane. I had worked on my break for few days and I already can see better results. Still I break better with the LD shaft.
 
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dr_dave said:
Here is a summary of important factors related to break cue selection:
- the break cue should have a weight that is optimal for you.
- the tip should be as hard as possible to maximize tip efficiency.
- the natural pivot length of the cue should be well matched to your preferred break bridge length. Many people use a longer bridge length for the break, so an LD shaft (with a longer natural pivot length) is probably a good choice.

For more info, see the break technique and equipment advice resource page.

Enjoy,
Dave
Click to expand...

I need to get the whole thing :love:

I did some cue weight and bridge adjustments today and my break percentage increased by 8%. Which is great for one day of work. :)
 
poolguy4u said:
I went to a bar box tournament yesterday and people had $29 dollar K-Mart decal cues and were smashing the racks hard and making balls on every break.:eek:

Just shows you don't need an LD Shaft or special break tip to break good and the amount of squirt really doesn't matter. These were APA amateur handicap #5, beer drinking bar box bangers.:wink:

A special break cue or shaft would not of made a difference.:smile:
Click to expand...

Well, A 3 piece Walmart cue is basically what I own ! :thumbup:

Not everybody is blessed with a fast cloth or 7ft table. Try a slow 9ft table and see how painful it can be. :o

I don't have any problems with bar boxes. In fact, I tend to hold back to prevent things from clustering up.. :smile:
 
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