Learning one-pocket

Billy_Bob

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Yesterday I played one-pocket for the first time (I don't know a thing about this game). I think I am *really* going to like playing this game.

I learned the basics by playing with a very good opponent (I lost every game). If there was a bank, he would make it, if there was a kick, he would make it. I quickly learned what *not* to do.

I have the book Upscale One-Pocket which I have not read yet (as no one would play this game with me until now), so I'll start reading that.

Anyway I've got a lot of stuff to work on....

The opening break? The book shows a break where you slightly hit the head ball then the 2nd ball. The object is to drive some of the balls closer to your pocket and leave the cue ball on opponent's side of table up a couple of diamonds. How hard should you break? Soft medium hard?

Defense? I got the impression I should try to leave the cue ball in front of my opponents pocket? What is the best leave to keep your opponent from banking or kicking balls into his pocket?

Offense-kick shots? With my playing up til now, the idea was to kick and hit a ball to keep my opponent from getting ball-in-hand.With one-pocket, I need to learn to kick *and* make the ball into the pocket. What is the best way to learn this? Just shoot zillions and zillions of kick shots?
 
Billy_Bob said:
Yesterday I played one-pocket for the first time (I don't know a thing about this game). I think I am *really* going to like playing this game.

I learned the basics by playing with a very good opponent (I lost every game). If there was a bank, he would make it, if there was a kick, he would make it. I quickly learned what *not* to do.

I have the book Upscale One-Pocket which I have not read yet (as no one would play this game with me until now), so I'll start reading that.

Anyway I've got a lot of stuff to work on....

The opening break? The book shows a break where you slightly hit the head ball then the 2nd ball. The object is to drive some of the balls closer to your pocket and leave the cue ball on opponent's side of table up a couple of diamonds. How hard should you break? Soft medium hard?

Defense? I got the impression I should try to leave the cue ball in front of my opponents pocket? What is the best leave to keep your opponent from banking or kicking balls into his pocket?

Offense-kick shots? With my playing up til now, the idea was to kick and hit a ball to keep my opponent from getting ball-in-hand.With one-pocket, I need to learn to kick *and* make the ball into the pocket. What is the best way to learn this? Just shoot zillions and zillions of kick shots?

So many questions so little time...

Welcome to the wonderfull game of One Pocket BillyBob.

-I'll start with the break shot, one of the more traditional ways is to slow roll the CB into the rack. I'd say a 3 on a scale of 1-10 in strength. That is unless your Cory Deuel, then you smash em and run out.

-Defense. Defense has to be at lease 90% of One-Pocket. The best way to keep your opponent from banking or kicking or otherwise moving balls toward his pocket is to freeze him up against a ball. when you have 15 balls on the table that you can shoot at your safety play had better be tight.

-learning to kick. There are a ton of systems out there you can use to accuratly kick. learn as many as you can because one system can be used in situations others can't. do a search on kicking systems, I know there were a few floating around last month on the forum.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=30835&highlight=kicking
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=30778&highlight=kicking
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=30812&highlight=kicking

Plus there's numerous videos and books out there that can show you kicking systems.

Have fun.
 
I just started playing the game a couple months ago. If you can find the book "Winning One Pocket" by Eddie Robin, you'll get a lot of help and advise. The book in unbelievable with a lot diagrams. I personally got mine from Mr. Robin and exchanged a lot of emails with him about the game.
 
Billy_Bob said:
I quickly learned what *not* to do.

Well, you learned some of what not to do. You can spend a lifetime learning the rest.

Billy_Bob said:
The opening break? The book shows a break where you slightly hit the head ball then the 2nd ball. The object is to drive some of the balls closer to your pocket and leave the cue ball on opponent's side of table up a couple of diamonds. How hard should you break? Soft medium hard?

You want the cue ball to go two rails and come back up so that the stack (still mostly intact) is between the CB and your pocket. That way they'll have trouble immediately clearing the balls you pushed toward your pocket. Adjust your speed until you're landing in the right spot.

Billy_Bob said:
Offense-kick shots? With my playing up til now, the idea was to kick and hit a ball to keep my opponent from getting ball-in-hand.With one-pocket, I need to learn to kick *and* make the ball into the pocket. What is the best way to learn this? Just shoot zillions and zillions of kick shots?

Practice, and also, learn the higher-percentage way to hit the shot. If you've got a ball near your pocket, kicking one rail to cut the ball in is usually much more difficult than kicking two rails (hitting the rail just before your ball) with a little running english. Also, every kick should be a two-way shot. Never kick at a ball if you're going to leave your opponent a shot if you miss. The good players always hit the correct side of the ball to get the leave they want, and if they make the ball, that's good too.

As for safeties, watch and learn is the best way. There are too many ways to play safe in one-pocket to ever include in a written description, so watch the good players and think creatively. Leaving your opponent right in front of his pocket is a good rule of thumb, but often there are even better plays available. The best kind of safe moves balls away from your opponent's pocket, moves balls toward your pocket, leaves your opponent without a shot, and leaves your opponent blocked from clearing balls away from your pocket. If it seems like one shot can't possibly do all of these things, watch some professional matches with some experienced players such as Grady Mathews. They work magic with some of those safes.

-Andrew
 
I learned OP the old fashioned way. A gentleman named Clyde McKinney used to come into the pool room about once a week. He wanted to play One Pocket for $5 a game, "just to make it interesting". I knew it was going to cost me about $20 before the night was over, and it was probably the cheapest one pocket lessons I could have ever gotten.
Clyde was a great player and a great person, rest his soul.
Steve
 
Andrew Manning said:
Well, you learned some of what not to do. You can spend a lifetime learning the rest.

...snip...

As for safeties, watch and learn is the best way. There are too many ways to play safe in one-pocket to ever include in a written description, so watch the good players and think creatively. Leaving your opponent right in front of his pocket is a good rule of thumb, but often there are even better plays available. The best kind of safe moves balls away from your opponent's pocket, moves balls toward your pocket, leaves your opponent without a shot, and leaves your opponent blocked from clearing balls away from your pocket. If it seems like one shot can't possibly do all of these things, watch some professional matches with some experienced players such as Grady Mathews. They work magic with some of those safes.

-Andrew
Sounds like you're ready for the next Cue Bar one-pocket tournament, which is this coming Sunday, May 7.

Cory
 
my rule for 1p: never, ever, EVER leave a shot for your opponent. i try to apply this rule to each shot. it's OK in 1p to not make a ball for many turns, even if you're way down.

due to this 'rule', i shoot a lot of weird low-percentage shots with high-percentage safe shape. creativity is a must.

-s
 
Cory in DC said:
Sounds like you're ready for the next Cue Bar one-pocket tournament, which is this coming Sunday, May 7.

Cory

Don't confuse posting with playing; my bark is, always has been, and probably always will be far worse than my bite.

Anyway, ability aside I would definitely plan on playing (after all, my draw can't be too much worse than last time), but I'll be out of the area this weekend. I'll try to keep the first Sunday in June open if I can, though.

-Andrew
 
a) Getting out and playing and watching
b) Winning One pocket and Shots moves and Strategies (both Eddie Robin)
c) Accustats tapes

repeat, rinse, lather, repeat
 
supergreenman said:
So many questions so little time...

Welcome to the wonderfull game of One Pocket BillyBob.

-I'll start with the break shot, one of the more traditional ways is to slow roll the CB into the rack. I'd say a 3 on a scale of 1-10 in strength. That is unless your Cory Deuel, then you smash em and run out.

-Defense. Defense has to be at lease 90% of One-Pocket. The best way to keep your opponent from banking or kicking or otherwise moving balls toward his pocket is to freeze him up against a ball. when you have 15 balls on the table that you can shoot at your safety play had better be tight.

-learning to kick. There are a ton of systems out there you can use to accuratly kick. learn as many as you can because one system can be used in situations others can't. do a search on kicking systems, I know there were a few floating around last month on the forum.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=30835&highlight=kicking
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=30778&highlight=kicking
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=30812&highlight=kicking

Plus there's numerous videos and books out there that can show you kicking systems.

Have fun.


I sort of disagree regarding defense. One pocket is a very aggressive game when played right. Not pocketing a ball does not mean you have played a safety. Moving balls, blocking bank lanes, arranging the balls to your advantage are not safeties. You don't want your opponent to ever shoot without risk, this requires aggressive play. Just not selling out does not mean you have advanced your chances of winning, players who play overly safe will more often the not lose to an equal but more aggressive player.
 
Also, check out Gradys tapes on the game. Very informative. Then get some tapes of games/tournaments etc. Watch what they are doing, while trying to figure out why. The why is the key to the game.
Chuck
 
Another question...

How about breaking. Is this like 14.1 in that the person who wins the break makes the other player break? i.e. You don't want to break and if you win the game, the loser breaks?

Or do most players want to break?
 
BB...the break in OP is a big advantage...usually, players will alternate, although giving the break may be a way of giving weight to a weaker player.
Steve
 
Billy_Bob said:
Another question...

How about breaking. Is this like 14.1 in that the person who wins the break makes the other player break? i.e. You don't want to break and if you win the game, the loser breaks?

Or do most players want to break?

The person who breaks has a advantage.

Brian
 
Billy_Bob said:
Another question...

How about breaking. Is this like 14.1 in that the person who wins the break makes the other player break? i.e. You don't want to break and if you win the game, the loser breaks?

Or do most players want to break?

No, it's not like straight pool; if you learn how to break effectively, it's definitely an advantage to break. All top player will take the break given the choice.

-Andrew
 
macguy said:
I sort of disagree regarding defense. One pocket is a very aggressive game when played right. Not pocketing a ball does not mean you have played a safety. Moving balls, blocking bank lanes, arranging the balls to your advantage are not safeties. You don't want your opponent to ever shoot without risk, this requires aggressive play. Just not selling out does not mean you have advanced your chances of winning, players who play overly safe will more often the not lose to an equal but more aggressive player.

I call these players who try not to lose passive-aggressive one pocket players. They try to wait for their opponent to leave them a straight in stop shot before they shoot, but otherwise they are nipping and ducking and tucking every inning. This strategy only works when playing those who can't play. Against someone who can play a little bit, you are going to have to try to create some opportunities for yourself.

Someone mentioned Winning One Pocket as a good resource...I may be confused, but I think the 2nd book in that series, Shots Moves & Strategies, is a much better resource. Regardless, one of those books is full of stories and anectdotes, and the other full of beginning, middle and end game situations with shot selection choices given for each diagram from different players like Daulton, Bugs.....
 
Simply put, one pocket takes the best parts of ALL cue games (14.1,9ball,banks,billiards) and requires you to be creative, think, be patient, and know when to go for the jugular.

For the longest time when I just played 9ball only, I thought 1p was for old guys who couldn't make a ball anymore, and just bunted balls around. Boy was I wrong!.....now I see they play it because they can use ALL their acquired knowledge to it's best use.......

My first 1p lesson from Lou Johnson was this "On every shot, just get balls near my pocket, and leave the opponent no shot, and up against something"....I still try to play that way today!

Gerry
 
one pocket

sounds like on your post you have mastered one pocket--- now on to big and better things like snooker??? STICK:D :D :D :D
 
senor said:
I call these players who try not to lose passive-aggressive one pocket players. They try to wait for their opponent to leave them a straight in stop shot before they shoot, but otherwise they are nipping and ducking and tucking every inning. This strategy only works when playing those who can't play. Against someone who can play a little bit, you are going to have to try to create some opportunities for yourself.

Someone mentioned Winning One Pocket as a good resource...I may be confused, but I think the 2nd book in that series, Shots Moves & Strategies, is a much better resource. Regardless, one of those books is full of stories and anectdotes, and the other full of beginning, middle and end game situations with shot selection choices given for each diagram from different players like Daulton, Bugs.....

I think one problem new players of the game have is, living and dying with every game. You can't look at it like that. It is better to view the games like you would 9 ball, no one game means all that much, just the ultimate out come. I used to watch Mike Caralla play a lot and people thought he played reckless, he may have taken a shot at a ball that others may not shoot but if he made it he would get out. If he missed it and ended up losing he just went on to the next game no big deal. You just can't value any one game so much that it defines the outcome.

In other words you may lose a game 8 to 7 that took an hour to play and it could take the heart right out of you, especially if you were maybe ahead in the game at one point. No one game should mean that much to you. Danny DiLiberto is considered a foremost one pocket player. I have watched him play for like 40 years and his strength is his ability to run out. He makes all the tricky moves and all that stuff but he beats you by running balls, you are permitted only one mistake with him. I like that kind of play.

If your playing a guy you know will run 2 and play safe before maybe banking a ball that could get him all the way out, you really don't feel like you are under that much pressure. You can make what should have been a disastrous mistake and still be in the game with a guy who is afraid to shoot. The Peter principle should apply when playing one pocket, you don't want to hold yourself back.
 
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