That's because most players aren't willing to take the shortcut to get there. The longer path is more fun for them (less boring).
A player will get there either way if they just keep on playing for years. Drills will get you there faster.
learning position play
- Thread starter semoquer
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That's because most players aren't willing to take the shortcut to get there. The longer path is more fun for them (less boring).
A player will get there either way if they just keep on playing for years. Drills will get you there faster.
I have to agree with Neil and Pocketspeed. I spent a couple of hours this morning working on Allan Sands Cue Ball Control Cheat Sheets. He has some nice drills for speed control and then lots and lots of set ups for CB control and position.
I suspect many people take speed control for granted. Aside from a straight stroke, speed control may be the next most important aspect for playing good pool. Everyone is likely different but I find it much easier if I've already decided (Medium 1 speed for example) speed when I go down for the shot instead of just relying on feel. It allows the right side of my brain to hit over and just stroke the CB.
When you start practicing the CB control/position set ups, you quickly see how important fine tuning your tip position on the CB is to getting precise position, along with speed control. Each shot set up recommends a specific cue tip position on the CB and the speed to hit the shot with. It's also fun to experiment with each one by hitting the OB a little thicker, a little thinner, varying speeds and english to see where you take that same shot setup and gain a different CB position.
I usually play the ghost in 9 ball for awhile following a practice drill session. It is highly unusual to not see at least one shot from the drills be used while playing the ghost.
A much, much faster way to learn IMHO. That's not to say you don't need to play other people to improve, you obviously do. I think that's where you work on strategy and mental aspects, not practice fundamentals.
I suspect many people take speed control for granted. Aside from a straight stroke, speed control may be the next most important aspect for playing good pool. Everyone is likely different but I find it much easier if I've already decided (Medium 1 speed for example) speed when I go down for the shot instead of just relying on feel. It allows the right side of my brain to hit over and just stroke the CB.
When you start practicing the CB control/position set ups, you quickly see how important fine tuning your tip position on the CB is to getting precise position, along with speed control. Each shot set up recommends a specific cue tip position on the CB and the speed to hit the shot with. It's also fun to experiment with each one by hitting the OB a little thicker, a little thinner, varying speeds and english to see where you take that same shot setup and gain a different CB position.
I usually play the ghost in 9 ball for awhile following a practice drill session. It is highly unusual to not see at least one shot from the drills be used while playing the ghost.
A much, much faster way to learn IMHO. That's not to say you don't need to play other people to improve, you obviously do. I think that's where you work on strategy and mental aspects, not practice fundamentals.
The other day I saw this shot get butchered by an otherwise good player and I thought
it might have some relevance to this thread.
One thing you can do in practice is to try simple shot paths involving centerball stun and follow.
For some reason a lot of players are not comfortable with moving the cue ball on these lines.
They feel like controlling the cue ball means englishing it at all times.
In the above situation, with ball in hand, I firmly believe most (not all) good players
would position the cue ball near the rail as shown and play 2 rail shape
to the 8 ball (along the thin black line).
You can do it with natural top (a little running english if you want but it's not necessary).
The cue ball takes a very safe path where it comes nowhere near a scratch.
It also goes into the line of the shot, so you're gonna be nearly straight in whether it stops
way short (a few inches off the 2nd rail) or runs way long (to the top left corner of the P).
You have about 4 feet room for error on speed control.
On paper there are other options you could argue are equally valid... the faint reddish line
is more or less the same path, but you start at position A and shoot with high inside.
But you need to hit probably 50% harder, with inside spin, and hit 3 rails instead of 2.
Why make your life more difficult?
The yellow line is almost like center ball, but again you need to hit firmly and sometimes
the cue ball picks up a little unwanted sidespin as it rubs against the 7. It widens off
the rail and may even come close to scratching in the side. I've seen the same thing happen when
people to try leave a thinner angle and use low left to zigzag across the table.
And there are other options like drawing one rail, or no rails.
You want to practice lines where you can shoot with follow (not draw if possible) and find a line
where your speed control doesn't matter as much because there's a big margin for error.
Practice certain safe routes like this one until you know them perfectly.
it might have some relevance to this thread.
One thing you can do in practice is to try simple shot paths involving centerball stun and follow.
For some reason a lot of players are not comfortable with moving the cue ball on these lines.
They feel like controlling the cue ball means englishing it at all times.
In the above situation, with ball in hand, I firmly believe most (not all) good players
would position the cue ball near the rail as shown and play 2 rail shape
to the 8 ball (along the thin black line).
You can do it with natural top (a little running english if you want but it's not necessary).
The cue ball takes a very safe path where it comes nowhere near a scratch.
It also goes into the line of the shot, so you're gonna be nearly straight in whether it stops
way short (a few inches off the 2nd rail) or runs way long (to the top left corner of the P).
You have about 4 feet room for error on speed control.
On paper there are other options you could argue are equally valid... the faint reddish line
is more or less the same path, but you start at position A and shoot with high inside.
But you need to hit probably 50% harder, with inside spin, and hit 3 rails instead of 2.
Why make your life more difficult?
The yellow line is almost like center ball, but again you need to hit firmly and sometimes
the cue ball picks up a little unwanted sidespin as it rubs against the 7. It widens off
the rail and may even come close to scratching in the side. I've seen the same thing happen when
people to try leave a thinner angle and use low left to zigzag across the table.
And there are other options like drawing one rail, or no rails.
You want to practice lines where you can shoot with follow (not draw if possible) and find a line
where your speed control doesn't matter as much because there's a big margin for error.
Practice certain safe routes like this one until you know them perfectly.
+1! Solid advice here!
Banks
Banned
Not sure if somebody else said it, but..
Why not just set up shots and see what you can do?
You could set up drills all day long, but that creativity part is what you're looking for. Standard shape should be pretty obvious for a decent player. Drills will help you more with consistency. You could even set up your own shots over and over and call it a drill. Figure the stuff out and you'll really understand it better, imho. I can't stand drills.
Learning which ways are easier, what you're better at and just what you really can do are all things you'll need to mess around with to get the answers to.
Why not just set up shots and see what you can do?
You could set up drills all day long, but that creativity part is what you're looking for. Standard shape should be pretty obvious for a decent player. Drills will help you more with consistency. You could even set up your own shots over and over and call it a drill. Figure the stuff out and you'll really understand it better, imho. I can't stand drills.
Learning which ways are easier, what you're better at and just what you really can do are all things you'll need to mess around with to get the answers to.
This is pretty much the drill I came up with back when I was first trying to learn straight pool back in the early 70's. I came up with it myself, by the way, but I do realize I am not the only one because Capelle has something like this in at least one of his books (which were not out back in the early 70's).
However, I had a couple slight differences -- this is my drill:
Steve Booth’s “3.1” position practice drill
For Straight Pool, 9-ball/10-ball/rotation or 8-ball
1. Scatter three object balls on the table.
2. Take ball in hand behind the head string for the first ball (any ball for straight pool, in order for 9-ball), but…
3. Before you shoot your first shot, plan all three shots ahead of time, including leaving the last ball for a break ball position if that is reasonable (applies to straight pool, not rotation games).
4. Shoot the first shot playing position for the second ball (key ball), but if you miss or fall out of line, then replace both the object ball and cue ball and start from the beginning again.
5. If you make the first shot and get position, then shoot the second ball (key ball) playing position for the break angle on the third ball, but if you either miss or fall out of line on the second shot, put both the first ball and the second ball back and start from the beginning .
6. If you do make both the first ball and second (key ball) with the desired position on the third (the break ball), then…
7. Place three new balls in a cluster representing the specific location in the perimeter of the rack that is your intended target for your break shot (either in a mini-triangle or in a line – your choice), and then shoot your break shot. Alternately (and for rotation practice), it does not matter where you place your cluster of three balls – just place them anywhere that creates the opportunity for you to execute some kind of break out shot for your next three balls.
8. Now proceed to step #3 above and plan your next sequence. If you are using this drill to work on your 9-ball/10-ball/rotation game position, then of course you always plan your sequence in rotational order, and it does not matter where you place your next three ball break out cluster.
I believe this drill is by far most effective if you discipline yourself to reset all three balls from the start every time you miss either your shot or your position, instead of trying to get back on line with a “recovery shot”. This drill is for improving your position, so even if you make a shot, if you don’t get the position you want it, reset it from the beginning and try again; your position will improve!!
If you have trouble remembering where the balls were located in the event of a miss part way through, don’t worry, because after some practice with this drill you will begin to remember all the ball locations, and remembering alone will begin to help with your understanding of “pattern play”.
If you want to simulate 8-ball, then randomly scatter three stripes and three solids and pick the best group, and then follow the above rules with your group of choice. If you successfully run the first group, make your next three ball break out cluster the same group, but add in a fourth ball – the 8-ball. After your “break” of your next three ball cluster, consider it “open table” and pick the best cluster and plan from your entire sequence and run out that group, ending with making the 8-ball.
Watch your game improve!