ralphdukephoto
New member
Which is the best cleaner for a leather case?saddle soap, mink oil, etc.
leather case cleaning
- Thread starter ralphdukephoto
- Start date
Renegade4006
Member
For cleaning you might want to try ArmorAll Multi Purpose cleaner. Works well and doesn't leave an oily residue.
After cleaning then maybe apply saddle soap or mink oil. I'd consider those products to be leather treatment/conditioners more than cleaners.
After cleaning then maybe apply saddle soap or mink oil. I'd consider those products to be leather treatment/conditioners more than cleaners.
Renegade4006
Member
Do not over saturate what ever you use.
Just my opinions... Armoral is not breathable. Leather can crack in time.
... I prefer 303 Protectant on any leather surface. I have been using it on my JB's and JJ. Spot test whatever you use. How dirty is it or are you lookin for protection? I over applied Leather Honey on a strap & pad and killed it. Same with Lexol... easy does it. Try 303 Protectant. I swear by it...for car seats, dash, vinyl trim.
Just my opinions... Armoral is not breathable. Leather can crack in time.
... I prefer 303 Protectant on any leather surface. I have been using it on my JB's and JJ. Spot test whatever you use. How dirty is it or are you lookin for protection? I over applied Leather Honey on a strap & pad and killed it. Same with Lexol... easy does it. Try 303 Protectant. I swear by it...for car seats, dash, vinyl trim.
Definitely. Good advice.
Generally, treat leather as skin, because it is skin. The type of leather is important as well.
Some basic skin products are generally great for leather.
If the piece is valuable, be very careful.
Does it need moisture? Color? Surface texture? Cleaning? Sealing? Get the order of operations right.
There are some good YouTube videos on restoring handbags worth 10's of thousands of dollars. They do amazing work. They disassemble, restore the leather and finish, then stitch it back together in the same stitch holes. Lots of work but worth it with those market values. Good lessons there for cue cases. Also, watching shoe and boot restoration videos can yield important information. Also valuable high quality jackets, like Langlitz and Schott restorations. It depends on what type of leather you are dealing with.
I just picked up a Centennial case in the AZB for sale forum. I guarantee it will look new when I am done, and nothing about it will look "refinished".
Warm, deep, rich, soft, and supple are things you are looking for.
I agree. But vinyl is not leather and some products for vinyl can be a disaster for leather. I advice caution if a product is designed for vinyl, "pleather", or other synthetic leather substitutes. Don't get anything with silicone in it near a cue case or a cue. I have heard legends a cue maker might have you flogged or executed for getting silicone on a cue or anywhere near his shop. Also, reconstituted leathers (bonded or recycled) can be tricky, and are used in more products than people might suspect, even some higher end "leather" products.
Sometimes it is at least as important to know what not to use as what to use. Don't ask me how I know.
Good post Chop. Please post before/after.
I will do that. I did it some years ago with a brown It's George case.
professional use
8oz Obenaufs Obenauf Heavy Duty LP - Dealer Direct 610372010301 | eBay
T hree natural oils are suspended in Beeswax and Propolis. In the leather these oils gradually seep out of the Beeswax/Propolis suspension formula. If exposed to heat or flexing the oils are released faster so leather gets oiled instead of parched and cracked.
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