Less runout, will a rear chuck help?

Kim Bye

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a Basic repair lathe from Bassel and I would like to minimize the runout, will a rear chuck help with the precision or is it other things I should try first?
 
Kim Bye said:
I have a Basic repair lathe from Bassel and I would like to minimize the runout, will a rear chuck help with the precision or is it other things I should try first?
Click to expand...

Do you have the steady rests for the back to support handles and shafts?
Is this the toolbox model or which model, a picture of the setup you have will be helpful.
I made a head stock with dual chucks, and one with duel ER40 collets. The headstock I use for repairs is just a single end ER40 and I use steadies in front, like for tip replacement or a home made side Vee block rest. I use a rear steady for joint facing etc. For the rear steady, I use either a single bearing steady rest and have made a bunch of tapered ID sleeves, or I use the steady rest with a 4 jaw chuck or the 3 or 4 jaw self centering ones. I have lots to choose from, just depends what is available.
Neil
 
Do you currently use a steady rest? How much runout are you getting? Do you use a dial indicator and shim the shaft with papers?
 
conetip said:
Do you have the steady rests for the back to support handles and shafts?
Is this the toolbox model or which model, a picture of the setup you have will be helpful.
I made a head stock with dual chucks, and one with duel ER40 collets. The headstock I use for repairs is just a single end ER40 and I use steadies in front, like for tip replacement or a home made side Vee block rest. I use a rear steady for joint facing etc. For the rear steady, I use either a single bearing steady rest and have made a bunch of tapered ID sleeves, or I use the steady rest with a 4 jaw chuck or the 3 or 4 jaw self centering ones. I have lots to choose from, just depends what is available.
Neil
Click to expand...

You posted this as I was typing, :)
 
I have the basic repair lathe with large bore headstock and the quick change toolpost setup.
I use a steady rest and accurate delrin collets for all my work.
I have ordered a dial indicator, but haven`t gotten it yet.
I notice that, when replacing tips I tend to get some uneveness in the tip, when I trim it down to size.
I seem to have some sideways movement in the carrige too, is there a way to tighten this or am I taking to deep cuts?
Right now I`m using the cutting tools that came with the lathe, but I have ordered some high quality HSS cutting tools.
What range of runout should I accept on this kind of lathe?
I`ll post pictures later today.
 
For tips you need a really sharp tool. I tend to cut them close and then use a razor blade to finish them up. Watch cuejo put one on in this video. About the 4:12 mark he uses a razor to trim it up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hpQ8-AjuX4

The is a knob on the back of the carriage to adjust it tighter. Make sure to oil the bed between uses. I tend to like to keep a small cup full of oil and take a dropper and drop it where I need it. You will have a quart a long time this way. Always use the steady rest behind the headstock and use the headstock and keep work close. My experience working through the steady rest is that it is usually a single bearing and has some play in it.
 
If you are going to buy a DTI stand/holder, I recommend a Noga Brand .
They are just so well made, and solid. The cheaper copies are just Junk. Tried one this week at work, it was rubbish.
This has a picture of the stands. I have had my 3 for over 20 years now.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/bases-arms/2130670/

I also recommend a finger type DTI. I like the ones with the long 36mm stylis. They cost more, but the longer finger makes indicating different jobs and job types really easy. The long reach has so many advantages over the short reach, that the short one, rarely gets out of the box.

Here is my most used DTI,
http://www.inspection.ie/tesa-test-indicators-graduation-01mm-range-0-5mm-01810007.html
They are pricey, but are really really good dti's. It has a 36mm long stylis with the small 28mm diameter dial bezel.
The Ruby stylis is really recomended, as it does not scratch on polished or delicate surfaces like a carbide ball or a chrome ball does. My std stylis is the 2mm diameter ruby ball.

Any dial indicator is better than no indicator.
Neil
 
Thanks guys. Some great advice, I really appreciate it :smile:
I need to order som drill bits for working on G10 and acetal. Any recomandations?
 
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