Live threading with hightower deluxe

  • Thread starter Thread starter JC
  • Start date Start date
JC

JC

Coos Cues
Ok this is what I came up with based on some ideas I saw in the archives here. The threaded rod jig is just all thread in whatever pitch you want to thread in glued solid to the wood and the delron is threaded. If you look under the motor you will see a bearing block that I'm going to add a support linear rod to but it isn't here from China yet. This is to support the weight of the motor hanging there when you slightly loosen it on the dovetail. Seems to work pretty well even without it but I'm still testing. Ordered a new thread mill as the one I have is funky. Hoping that will give cleaner threads.

Here is a video of it:
https://youtu.be/ctF06S613xs

JC
 
Last edited:
I realized that if you have the other type of lathe without the lead screw and with the fixed motor this setup will work just as well or better. Just take off the belt and slightly loosen the headstock so it slides on the dovetail (lube it well) and turn it by hand to thread. Without the DC motor hanging off the side it will slide easier. When you're done return it to the lined up position with the motor and put the belt back on. Plus you can easily take the low carriage with the router mount off the end of the dovetail and use the hand wheel with it on the rack and pinion. The whole thing is very similar to what I read on a very old thread here that a guy was playing with.

JC
 
After playing around with some mock ups I think this thing is going to be a big winner. Here's a couple photos. The inside threads are in some soft myrtle wood that would crumble with a tap. The dowel is bocote. The fit is perfect and straight screwing them together.

t2.jpg

t1 (1).jpg

JC
 
Last edited:
Nicely Done JC. Appreciate the video and pics. I would like to do a stand alone threading setup like this, as my dovetail on my deluxe is worn by the headstock and therefore I have it shimmed to do accurate work. Some day I'll get around to buying another dovetail.
Dave
 
sileighty_guru said:
NICE!

I'm assuming that you cut the threads in a single pass?
Click to expand...

I did. I decided it works much better to just turn the lathe by hand for control. For that 14 tpi in the picture I left the dowel .060 bigger than the hole and cut each one in one pass of .030.

You could go two passes no problem with this if you wanted to. It keeps it's place as long as you don't let the delrin end turn. I'm going to build a lock for that end next so I can use both hands to turn the head stock with.

Still experimenting with stuff others have known for decades:smile: this is going to be the dead nuts for putting in brass inserts in shafts. Which is what I built the 14tpi jig for but will probably use that pitch on my A joints too. It seems very user friendly.

JC
 
Henry Maudslay would be proud of you, well done.

Dave
 
  • Like
Reactions: JC
JC said:
I did. I decided it works much better to just turn the lathe by hand for control. For that 14 tpi in the picture I left the dowel .060 bigger than the hole and cut each one in one pass of .030.

You could go two passes no problem with this if you wanted to. It keeps it's place as long as you don't let the delrin end turn. I'm going to build a lock for that end next so I can use both hands to turn the head stock with.

Still experimenting with stuff others have known for decades:smile: this is going to be the dead nuts for putting in brass inserts in shafts. Which is what I built the 14tpi jig for but will probably use that pitch on my A joints too. It seems very user friendly.

JC
Click to expand...

Use the foot peddle to control the speed ;) I don't do linen so there may be a use for the foot peddle after all haha!
 
I tried the foot pedal but the motor is too weak to control it at speeds low enough to get a clean cut with one pass. Turning the lathe by hand is definitely the way to go. Which is what made me realize my other lathe with the fixed motor works much easier because the end of the dovetail is open for putting the low carriage on and off that holds the router mount and the motor isn't hanging on it making it off balance. The router won't mount like that to the higher carriage for the taper bars, at least not with Dan's ring cutting mount.

JC
 

Corresponding witness marks to align the floating-headstock base with the dovetail, plus a peripheral witness mark on the rotary part of the floating headstock, would allow you to take multiple passes with very repeatable accuracy.

In other words, a couple of scratches in the right places could take this idea to a whole other level.

TW
 
Thomas Wayne said:

Corresponding witness marks to align the floating-headstock base with the dovetail, plus a peripheral witness mark on the rotary part of the floating headstock,
would allow you to take multiple depth passes with very repeatable accuracy.

In other words, a couple of scratches in the right places could take this idea to a whole other level.

TW
Click to expand...

Thanks Thomas,

That's one of the main reasons I posted this here to get refined ideas moving forward from those smarter than myself.

JC
 
Here's a test 3/8 10 shaft threads in a .308 hole. I cut the threads a little bit deep intentionally to look at the cut but they are pretty clean and fit the pin snuggly. Need to cut them about .010 shallower for the modified pin contact area. The screw jig I used was made out of a piece of 3/4 10 all thread I got for 2 bucks at the hardware store. I also added a piece to my steady rest to hold it when I'm ready to cut the threads. Drilled all the way through into the delrin jig so it can't slip in the jaws.

Shaft Threads.jpg

Steady Rest.jpg

JC
 
I have been working on refining this idea and built some new jigs in 5 different thread pitches to use on my other deluxe. I cut the threads in the delrin this time with a slight interference fit to eliminate all backlash so I can cut in more than one pass easily if I so desire and come back to the exact start spot without cross threading or even just go back and thread in the other direction on a second pass. Eliminating the backlash makes this easy without needing witness marks.

Here's a video of it in action with the 18 tpi jig on a ferule tenon. I built four other identical jigs with 10, 13, 14 and 16 tpi stainless rods. I built this set for another member here and am testing it prior to delivery.

https://youtu.be/Et_ZUmvGKOM

Since I'm holding the camera in one hand and doing the entire job with the other you will notice the threads got burnt slightly due to not being able to turn it smoothly with both hands and pausing too long as I went. This doesn't happen if you keep the thing moving with both hands. If you're threading a shorter piece like a forearm enough of it will go into the headstock that you can do it without the steady rest.

JC
 
JC said:
I have been working on refining this idea and built some new jigs in 5 different thread pitches to use on my other deluxe. I cut the threads in the delrin this time with a slight interference fit to eliminate all backlash so I can cut in more than one pass easily if I so desire and come back to the exact start spot without cross threading or even just go back and thread in the other direction on a second pass. Eliminating the backlash makes this easy without needing witness marks.

Here's a video of it in action with the 18 tpi jig on a ferule tenon. I built four other identical jigs with 10, 13, 14 and 16 tpi stainless rods. I built this set for another member here and am testing it prior to delivery.

https://youtu.be/Et_ZUmvGKOM

Since I'm holding the camera in one hand and doing the entire job with the other you will notice the threads got burnt slightly due to not being able to turn it smoothly with both hands and pausing too long as I went. This doesn't happen if you keep the thing moving with both hands. If you're threading a shorter piece like a forearm enough of it will go into the headstock that you can do it without the steady rest.

JC
Click to expand...

Very nice idea and work!! I will be trying to build one like this as well...
 
JC said:
I have been working on refining this idea and built some new jigs in 5 different thread pitches to use on my other deluxe. I cut the threads in the delrin this time with a slight interference fit to eliminate all backlash so I can cut in more than one pass easily if I so desire and come back to the exact start spot without cross threading or even just go back and thread in the other direction on a second pass. Eliminating the backlash makes this easy without needing witness marks.

Here's a video of it in action with the 18 tpi jig on a ferule tenon. I built four other identical jigs with 10, 13, 14 and 16 tpi stainless rods. I built this set for another member here and am testing it prior to delivery.

https://youtu.be/Et_ZUmvGKOM

Since I'm holding the camera in one hand and doing the entire job with the other you will notice the threads got burnt slightly due to not being able to turn it smoothly with both hands and pausing too long as I went. This doesn't happen if you keep the thing moving with both hands. If you're threading a shorter piece like a forearm enough of it will go into the headstock that you can do it without the steady rest.

JC
Click to expand...

What brand and model router are you using? Did you make the mount for it to attach to the cross slide?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top