Lizard Wrap Maintenance

Quesports

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a black lizard wrap on my cue and I want to know the best way to care for it. I have noticed that when I wipe my cue after playing that some black (dye?) seems to be coming off on the cloth. I use a very lightly dampened white cloth to wipe my cue. Should I seal the wrap somehow, like neutral shoe polish, or what other suggestions do you have?
Thanks,
Dan
 
It is standard for the leather to bleed when cleaning. I would not use a damp cloth but rather a little mink oil on a paper towell. A little goes a long way.
 
quedup said:
I have a black lizard wrap on my cue and I want to know the best way to care for it. I have noticed that when I wipe my cue after playing that some black (dye?) seems to be coming off on the cloth. I use a very lightly dampened white cloth to wipe my cue. Should I seal the wrap somehow, like neutral shoe polish, or what other suggestions do you have?
Thanks,
Dan
Neutral shoe polish is what I use.
 
Thanks to both for the suggestions. I have been using neutral shoe polish but I am still seeing the black dye on my cloth so I think I'll try the mink oil as it may repel soil and moisture better. I have all kinds of shoe and leather water proofing materials. Believe me I am not soaking the wrap just lightly wiping it after every week or so of play to get any hand oil and chalk grime off.
Thanks Again
Happy Holidays to All!!
 
I was wondering the same thing a few months ago, and found the following post on RSB by Chas Clements (he makes tooled leather cases, among other leather items). It's a long post, but I found it pretty informative:

Chas Nov 19 2002, 10:10 am
Newsgroups: rec.sport.billiard
From: Chas <gryph...@attbi.com> - Find messages by this author
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 18:10:52 GMT

It's probably best not to oil leather- unless you're talking about
harness or something that's going to get a lot of direct perspiration
and needs flexibility after drying. The salts and stuff in the
perspiration make the leather dry stiff and prone to crack. The other
thing is that harness can run very thick, and still need to bend
easily- oil makes things sleazy and prone to attract dust out of the
air. People always use too much and end up 'packing' the leather- not
a good idea.
If you do feel the need to oil something, use it **very sparingly**-
drops, and only a few at that. Never use mineral oil/Vaseline- stick
with mink oil, neatsfoot, lanolin and so on.
And never for reptile skins- they aren't 'oily' anyway. Reptile's
don't make good leather, by and large, and don't wear worth a damn.
You're probably best off sealing the hell out of it with an acrylic
and treating it like plastic.
If that is not to your taste; wax the leather with a good neutral shoe
polish, a clean wood wax or Renaissance Wax. Something with a high
carnauba content. Polish it out with panty hose material; stroke in
the direction of the scales/pattern.
You can clean it with Woolite/face soap- don't use 'saddle soap'. Make
a lather in a dish and then clean with the suds. Use as little water
as possible and put on the wax before it dries completely.
It's safe just to ignore it. Clean for hand grease every once in a
while. There are even some proprietary potions for snakeskin boots and
such- you can get them from The Leather Factory, Tandy, shoe supply
wholesalers, maybe some shoe shops. They're pretty much based on
silicone I think. You could probably use something like 'Viscol'; put
on sparingly, allow a week to dry, use two coats (two weeks). The
Viscol will leave it 'dull' in finish, so you're back to waxing it to
get a nice feel and finish.
Hope this helps.

--
Chas Clements
casemaker 303-364-0403
c...@kuntaosilat.net
http://www.kuntaosilat.com/
http://chasclements.tripod.com/index.htm
 
i think i'll just avoid snakeskin wraps and stick to leather, which i like very much.
 
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