Long draw shots part 2

H

Hogman

Guest
I still had some questions about power draw shots and I'm not sure the other thread will yield relevent responses.

Is anyone here able to draw the cue ball 7-9 ft. with a low level cue? If so can you describe how you do it in depth?

What other techniques do you use for draw shots that are far from the ob? I know that Blackjack posted an exercise that included a long draw, maybe he has some advice?
 

Blackjack

Illuminati Blacksmack
Silver Member
Here is a shot you can practice. Remember that you want maximum results from minimal effort. Striking the cue ball extremely low can cause the cue ball to leave the table. This accentuated when the butt of the cue is elevated. I recommend keeping the cue as level as possible, but the key to getting maximum results is in the fluidity of the stroke. Everything goes back to the fundamentals. The game of pool relies on the fundamentals in much the same way a chain relies on it's links. Weaken one link and the chain becomes useless. This is a good shot to practice for power draw, hence the name. This shot is from Lessons in 9 Ball, Section II, Practice Outs.
 

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bruin70

don't wannabe M0DERATOR
Silver Member
i certainly ain't one to talk but i have noticed,,,,,that mika does not get low on the cb,,,that they all stroke through where i tend to jerk(as if thinking extra ooomph will put more stuff on the cb),,,that orttman REALLY drops his elbow(well,,,he does on all his shots)
 

Tom In Cincy

AKA SactownTom
Silver Member
Hogman..

David has posted a very good drill (IMO) for you power draw practicing.

I have only one thing to add;

Follow thru with every practice shot.

I think this is a critical part of this shot. Hitting the cue ball low, with power will get your draw started, but the follow thru will increase your chances for success.

Practice always helps, experimenting with different power strokes (including the follow thru) will also help..


Let us know if any of this has helped...
 

bruin70

don't wannabe M0DERATOR
Silver Member
fast larry said:
yO tOM, THIS IS FAST. if you want success at this, dump the bs you were taught by the moron who taught you this bs, use no follow through. It is like I am talking to a bunch of chimps on the jungle floor, you guys are too dumb to understand this.

larry,,,,dude,,,,this is no way to enlighten. you have to EXPLAIN. this is where the "teaching" part kicks in.

for instance, by "no follow through" do you mean not that long drawn out, exagerrated follow through? i see that most all pros' so-called "follow through" is, in fact, very short and compact,,,,, but smooth. i've even seen orttman "jab" at the cb, in a situation not unlike what blackjack diagrammed.
 
N

Number1

Guest
The first got got it right, low bottom, this is purely a power draw shot. You only need to use reverse screw (bottom left as eddie so elequently described) if your trying to widen the angle. I would reccomend follow through but again its all technique and timing. You'll know what I mean when you het a long deep screw without much power/effort and the white screaches back up the table. Losening your grip on the cue also helps.
 

bruin70

don't wannabe M0DERATOR
Silver Member
Number1 said:
The first got got it right, low bottom, this is purely a power draw shot. You only need to use reverse screw (bottom left as eddie so elequently described) if your trying to widen the angle. I would reccomend follow through but again its all technique and timing. ,,,,,.

"timing" is something i only recently began to take notice of, and interestingly, it was from watching players break. my timing sucks, but the concept applies to all strokes, i see.

and it is the hardest for me to attain. just practice, though.
 
N

Number1

Guest
Im afraid it is mainly practice, its difficult to explain over a forum, but when you do it you'll know. Raising the cue, jabbing, dropping shoulder etc are all bad habits that you don't really need if you work on your technique and end up with a rolls royce cue action :)

Always play through the cue ball, and master the timing, head low, perfectly still, loosen your grip and you'll see what I mean :)

Good luck
 

bruin70

don't wannabe M0DERATOR
Silver Member
Number1 said:
Im afraid it is mainly practice, its difficult to explain over a forum, but when you do it you'll know. Raising the cue, jabbing, dropping shoulder etc are all bad habits that you don't really need if you work on your technique and end up with a rolls royce cue action :)

Always play through the cue ball, and master the timing, head low, perfectly still, loosen your grip and you'll see what I mean :)

Good luck

there is a noticable "click" sound that is very ,,,,clean,,,i can't think of the word. but i hear it when i watch the pros. it's the sound made when the tip contacts the CB.

i am thinking that maybe this distinctive click is a result of timing/stroke. or is it an illusion i created from watching the pros.
 
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Gabber

Banned
Hogman said:
I still had some questions about power draw shots and I'm not sure the other thread will yield relevent responses.

Is anyone here able to draw the cue ball 7-9 ft. with a low level cue? If so can you describe how you do it in depth?

What other techniques do you use for draw shots that are far from the ob? I know that Blackjack posted an exercise that included a long draw, maybe he has some advice?

Its all about wrist snap and timing.

The principal is the same as when you hear a bullwhip crack. To crack a whip , you start by making a large movement [ wave ] by moving your arm up and down . This wave then travels along the whip , getting smaller , but faster as it reaches the end. The crack that you hear is made by the tip of the whip breaking the speed of sound . [ yes its true ]

Now apply the same principal to your stroke .

Take the cue back longer than normal . When you start going forward, from the end of the backstroke ,dont force it . If your wrist is loose [ I mean really loose] it will be in a cocked position.
You gradually increase speed till you hit the ball and then the cue takes over. The wrist will snap , dramatically increasing the acceleration of the cue through the Qball. WHEN you hit the ball , is just as important as how you hit it.

Hence the common phrase, ' dont hit it hard , hit it sweet'.

I hope my 'primitive'description helps you out.


Gabber.
 
H

Hogman

Guest
Thanks for the replies. I am able to do the shot Blackjack diagrammed pretty consistently using a low and level cue.

As far as drawing the cb back off of an ob more then half a table length away, I've experimented with both the smooth level stroke and jacking up slightly, maybe 5 inches, and using a shorter follow through. On occasion I am really able to rev up the cb using both strokes, but it appears that if I am really far from the ob and need to get some serious draw, a slight jack-up helps.

Thanks again for the advice, I've shot more power draw shots in the past 2 days then I usually do in a month!
 

Reno

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
When the object ball is close to the cueball, shorten up your bridge. You'll see lots of lower level players use their same long bridge and have trouble trying to draw the ball. If you shorten the bridge, I mean really shorten it, the draw becomes much easier, when close to the object ball that is.
 

Cardinal_Syn

Julz
Silver Member
My friend doesn't go low on the cue ball just below center, and he can draw back very extreme. Still puzzles me, but i notice he follows through.
 
S

Sputnik

Guest
I'm sure this will help with short or long distance, soft or forceful draws.... leave skid marks on the cloth with the tip of your cue at the followthrough.
 

nbc

Cuefather
Silver Member
fast larry said:
As usual you guys keep getting this stuff all wrong, this shot is not performed with low 6:00, you use low left, 7:30, then the english takes off of the rail and explodes up table with no effort.
Fast Larry Guninger www.fastlarrypool.com
shoot straight, no fear, innovate and never give up, just run out on the other guy then there is no way for you to lose.
VENI, VIDI, VICI, OMNIA, VINCIT, AMOR...


If there is one thing in my game that I do pretty well, then it has to be drawing the cueball back.

I'm not a Pro or Class A player, but I did take lessons from a very good pro here in the Philippines...and one of the first things he taught me was how to draw the ball.

Yes, you can hit this shot low at 6 o'clock...and with a fluid yet forceful stroke, draw back the cue ball really far. But, that brings the side pocket into play...and is the wrong way to play this shot.

I agree with Fast Larry on hitting this shot at 7:30 on the CB. On this type of shot, my pro taught me to use a stroke similar to a punch stroke...where you hit the CB hard but add a quick flick of the wrist at impact. That will draw the CB back somewhere near the 2nd diamond and nowhere near the side pocket...and then the english will open up the angle and you will see the CB scoot to the other end of the table.

nbc
 

Micktmason

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
the point of that drill wasn't which ways to hit the shot, but for practicing power draws. when OB is that close the shot isn't difficult, it is when the OB is3/4 table away or more that hogman is asking about. it is a different type of shot, have to hit really firm and accelerate thru impact, follow thru as tip drops a little helps put more spin also
 

Rickw

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Velocity or the speed your cue hits the cb is critical IMHO. There are examples that can be used in other sports. For example, boxing, ever wonder why some fighters don't look big and tough and yet they knock people out? Take a boxer named Mark Breland, he was tall and skinny and yet he was knocking people out. His punching was comprised of speed and technique, not power. Bruce Lee was another good example of someone who mastered the two components I'm talking about, speed and technique.

If you shoot the cb into the side rail in a direct line, put either left or right english on the cb. Hit the ball with speed and very little power and see how much the cb shoots to the right or left. Do it again and try putting power into you stroke. The angle the cb takes off the rail will be much shorter. The cb going into the rail and bending the rail does have a lot to do with the shorter angle but this exercise still helps to illustrate my point.

If I were you, I would not practice a really tough draw shot until I could master the shorter draw. For example, put an ob in the middle of the table between the two side pockets and practice drawing the cb back into one of the side pockets. Strive for making the cb draw back into the pocket faster and faster. When you feel like you can draw the ball back really fast, change the exercise by shooting down one of the long rails increasing the distance between the cb and the ob.

One other thing, better than mastering the ability to use power draw is the ability to control where the cb ends up after you make the shot. This way, hopefully, you won't have to use that power draw shot very much.
 

Blackjack

Illuminati Blacksmack
Silver Member
I did not know that when I posted this diagram that it would cause so much negative discussion. I posted the drill as an example of a "One Rail" power draw shot. Actually, it is not a drill, but what I choose to call a "Practice Out". For those who have said that the shot needs to be struck at 7:30, I will ask you to look at the cue ball indicator again. The dot is not exactly at 6:00, and that is on purpose. I will also say that if you draw a line through the center of the object ball and the cue ball, and continue that line to the rail, you will see that if struck at 6:00, the cue ball will not even come close to the side pocket. Anyone that says it will, is stroking the shot incorrectly.

I post this to simplify what is diagrammed, not to join the bickering or to participate in the childishness that has been displayed thus far in this thread.
 

Bluewolf

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Low and level draw vs elevation

Blackjack said:
I post this to simplify what is diagrammed, not to join the bickering or to participate in the childishness that has been displayed thus far in this thread.

It is very hard when people I respect are being so for lack of better words, black and white, on an issue. It is my nature to see shades of gray. I do have a couple of questions on this though and hope they can get answered in an adult manner.

A certain instructor taught me the low and level draw which required striking very low with a nice follow through. The nice thing about this technique was when practiced, a person could control exactly how far the cb draws back: an excellent tool for position.

My problem: I am used to looking at the ob last, that is what is now comfortable to my eyes. When I do this on this technique, then the cue seems to come up a little with makes it either a stop or less of a draw. i have not noticed this happening on my other shots. So, to do this correctly, i was having to keep my eyes on the cb on the follow to make sure this did not happen. I did not have the problem of scooping as some have suggested. When looking at the cb, it gets struck exactly where I am aiming it, therefore, no scoop.

I have not practiced the karate chop down on the ball from a slightly elevated position as much, although i can draw with that method. I guess i wonder if a regular pool player can get this same accuracy with this method, or does it take someone with a super fine touch. Anybody here that uses both?

I have always felt it good to be able to use both, but the low and level is really hard for me for some reason,although I will keep practicing that too.

Laura

PS I have a 'why not both' philisophy on most things, as well as this
 

Bluewolf

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
nbc said:

Yes, you can hit this shot low at 6 o'clock...and with a fluid yet forceful stroke, draw back the cue ball really far. But, that brings the side pocket into play...and is the wrong way to play this shot.

I agree with Fast Larry on hitting this shot at 7:30 on the CB. On this type of shot, my pro taught me to use a stroke similar to a punch stroke...where you hit the CB hard but add a quick flick of the wrist at impact. That will draw the CB back somewhere near the 2nd diamond and nowhere near the side pocket...and then the english will open up the angle and you will see the CB scoot to the other end of the table.

nbc

This was an eye opener to me. Not being an advanced player, stuff like this never occurred to me to help my position skills. I have used draw straight back or draw on the tangent line to get rail action, but not something like this to get to a slightly different place on the table.I have been wondering about this advanced shape stuff. Boy, i cant wait to try this in a real match!!!!

Laura
 
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