Looking for info on the size of the hollow section of a Z2 shaft

[shojingod]

I looking to find the mm size or inch for the hollow section of a Z2 shaft. I looking into to fix my Z2 with a very small carbon tub or rod. I know it will alter some of the playability but at least it will be playable. You can get carbon rod used in kite making in very small diameters.

 

[Michael Webb]

I looking to find the mm size or inch for the hollow section of a Z2 shaft. I looking into to fix my Z2 with a very small carbon tub or rod. I know it will alter some of the playability but at least it will be playable. You can get carbon rod used in kite making in very small diameters.

Please describe what is actually wrong with your Z shaft unless you intentionally want to turn it into a McDermott G core shaft.

 

[shojingod]

Please describe what is actually wrong with your Z shaft unless you intentionally want to turn it into a McDermott G core shaft.

In the hollow section of the Z2 I am having delamination issues between the pie cuts. I seen somebody fix a delaminating 314 with a carbon rod online. I really have nothing to lose on this shaft since I got it for nothing. I have no warranty availability with predator. I was looking into using a thinner two part epoxy to glue the rod with some glue relief in the rod to allow some of the glue to permeate a little in between the pie section as well as having a solid core to bond to as well. Knowing the size of the hollow section I can find a rod that is the same size or slightly bigger. Other than the drying of the epoxy I saw someone fix a 314 this way in about 25 minutes. Remove the ferrule, drill out the hole with same size as the rod, machine the rod with a ruff tread(as glue relief), use a thin 2 part epoxy, tape up the shaft that section, insert rod slowly, strap section with rubber bands, let dry, cut off excess, put a new ferrule and tip, clean up the shaft. This would be experimental in a way.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Why use carbon fiber ROD ?
NOT TUBE ?
You might as well plug it up with maple or balsa .
What's the difference in weight ?
The hole is around 6mm. Since you are going to plug it up and destroy the ferrule tenon, you might as well go up to 5/16.

 

[Kim Bye]

Having repaired quite a few beat up Predator shafts, I would advise you not to use carbon fibre tube, atleast if you want it to play somewhat like it used to. Open the hole to 5/16 and glue in a maple dovel. When it's cured, drill a 5.5mm hole. That should retain some strength, yet keep some of the LD characteristics. Use Isoplast or Tomahawk ferrule material.

 

[shojingod]

Having repaired quite a few beat up Predator shafts, I would advise you not to use carbon fibre tube, atleast if you want it to play somewhat like it used to. Open the hole to 5/16 and glue in a maple dovel. When it's cured, drill a 5.5mm hole. That should retain some strength, yet keep some of the LD characteristics. Use Isoplast or Tomahawk ferrule material.

I'm throwing around ideas. I can see doing with a larger maple dowel makes a lot of sense. I see combining both your idea and joeys idea. Put the larger maple dowel drill it out smaller the 5.5mm hole then put a smaller balsa core. The best of both worlds solid but still very light. I like to thanks all with their feedback.

 

[barryr]

I've done quite a few of these over the years with fairly good success rate. As the usual repair guy in my state (South Australia) I do a hell of a lot of cue repairs and delaminated 314's or Z's are pretty common with American style cue's. VERY GENTLY drill in to the hollow section to clean it up without removing any more of the inside wall than possible. You will need a dowel that fits very closely but can be removed and is long enough to get a good grip. Run a bit of polyurethane glue (gorilla or similar boat builders foaming/expanding type). Coat the dowel in the glue as well before gently working in and out of the shaft so as to VERY GENTLY open up the laminated sections that have come apart allowing the glue to squeeze/expand in to it. You can then either leave the dowel in and drill it out later or remove it at this stage before GENTLY wrapping with rubber tubing or strip rubber to clamp it up. The rubber clamping material can have a little linseed or kitchen oil applied first so any excess glue doesn't stick to it. Excess glue that comes through is fairly easily removed from the shaft after it's dry. The shaft can then be re-ferruled, or I've also done this method by removing just the ferrule cap and making a new "plug cap"after from canvas phenolic to finish the job.