Lord help me

BarenbruggeCues said:
No problem...
Here's all you have to do. Take a piece of maple the length of your butt. Let's say you want your butt to be 29 long at finished size.
Cut it at your finished taper. Let's use .400 diff as a number. 850-1250
After you have it tapered to finish size. Mark it at the length of your fore, handle, back sleeve. You can measure both ends of each piece and write them down. These are the offset numbers you will use to taper each piece before assembly of all 3 pieces. It doesn't matter how oversized they are if they are on the tapers you have measured.
In fact, when there are oversized by say around .100 - .120, you can put them between centers and cut cylindrical flats on each piece to be able to chuck them up with the centers of each piece on the center line of your lathe to do any work necessary to assemble them so they go together with ZERO wobble.
Once you are able to that, you have achieved.
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
As an alternative to @BarenbruggeCues sage measurement advice, the math is easy to plug into a calculator.

Step 1:

Subtract your joint diameter from your butt diameter. Write this number down. Using Mr. Barengrugge's numbers;

1.250 - 0.850 = 0.400

Step 2:

Measure from the joint end to the start and end of the handle of the cue you are turning. Let's say that you have a 12.5" forearm and a 12" handle, that means the handle starts at 12.5" and ends at 24.5" from the joint.

Step 3:

Divide each of the two numbers from step 2 by the total length of the cue:

Top of handle:

12.5/29 = 0.431034

Bottom of handle:

24.5/29 = 0.844828

Write these numbers down.

Explanation--These two numbers are the percentage of the distance from the joint to the end of the cue.

Step 4:

Multiply the two numbers from above by the number from step 1.

0.400 x 0.431034 = 0.172

0.400 x 0.844828 = 0.338

Step 5:

Add those two numbers to the joint diameter:

0.850 + 0.172 = 1.022

0.850 + 0.338 = 1.188

These are the diameters at the top and bottom of the handle. Obviously the bottom of the forearm is the same as the top of the handle (some error will result with the rings, but if they aren't extremely thick, it will be negligible. Similar for the butt sleeve and the bottom of the handle, but a long buttcap may be enough reason to repeat the steps above for the distance to the top of the cap.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
I forgot to mention I only pre taper the fore and handle before assembly of the two. On the back sleeve, I've always just kept it in cylinder form until it has been installed on the back side for full length tapering. However, I can remove it at any given point thru the tapering process because I thread both collars on both ends of the butt. Not only does this provide the flexibility to disassemble at any given time in the build process but also acts as a clamp when it finally does come to the final stage of gluing the entire butt together.
Click to expand...
Maybe be a silly question, but, so you are not referring to a cored build?
 
DeeRay86 said:
Maybe be a silly question, but, so you are not referring to a cored build?
Click to expand...
It's all the same for me cored or not cored.
I build every cue with a 12-12-5 = 29
Everything is assembled dry, cut on taper and left to hang oversized until I grab a few and finish them out.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Nice but.........at a hundred a whack for multiples it would be easier for me to just move the tail over.
Click to expand...
I looked at those a while ago too. Went with the regular tail stock. I did get tired of measuring the offset with the calipers so I added a dial indicator. Much easier now.

IMG_1691.jpeg
 
i think ud have to run 123 blocks to get that taper tsilstock level, otherwise itd be slanting. also, can do compound tapers by offsetting. juat have to figure out order of cuts, and fare-in/blend the 2 cuts or more angles
 
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