LTB some compression dies

opiesbro

Big Al Customs
Silver Member
I just finished a plain jane and I am not completely happy with the way the glue rings looked around the collars. So I am wanting to buy some compressions dies so that they will snug up better and get rid of these glue rings. Plus I think that it is just better to make the collars thread on instead of just being sleeves.

Looking for 3/4-16 & 5/8-18

Thanks,
 
I wish

Live thread them.

I would love to but I don't have the threading option for my deluxe yet. :( I wish money was not an option and then I would have a metal lathe and a cnc to do my cues. But until then I will just use my deluxe.
 
I'm sure You already know the flatter the faces are, the better, but How are You clamping them while the glue dries? I started putting a thick rubber O-ring between the tail stock and ring work when using a lathe for clamping, and that seems to really help maintain even pressure, but a bar clamp should work really well also. On a side note, Some materials can wick the glue more then others, and that can leave the appearance of glue lines even when the faces are good to go.
 
I would love to but I don't have the threading option for my deluxe yet. :( I wish money was not an option and then I would have a metal lathe and a cnc to do my cues. But until then I will just use my deluxe.

Save your pennies.
With a live threader, you don't need to stick to regular .625" or .750" OD
Often I have to keep the collars at .650" so can I use 5/8 ID phenolics or fiber rings and still thread the collars.
DSC01087.jpg
 
I'm sure You already know the flatter the faces are, the better, but How are You clamping them while the glue dries? I started putting a thick rubber O-ring between the tail stock and ring work when using a lathe for clamping, and that seems to really help maintain even pressure, but a bar clamp should work really well also. On a side note, Some materials can wick the glue more then others, and that can leave the appearance of glue lines even when the faces are good to go.

I did cut the faces flat before pressing the collars on with a insert cutter not a HSS. Then I used the tailstock with the pieces chucked in the headstock to press the rings and collars. Then made a pass with the router to cut them flush. I will try the O-ring idea to press them the next time.

Here are some pics of the cue before I put any finish on it.

Thanks
 

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I quit using Them because the belts kept snapping, and I went to something else, but I bought a bunch of old rubber singer belts one time to run My wrap motor. They are the type that look like O-rings. Each pack came with a larger size belt that I used for that, and a smaller one that I never had a use for until this. They are fairly thick, so They have quite a bit of elasticity and seem to work well. My thinking Is It may work similar to using the surgical tubing to clamp billet, or points with.

It's hard to tell from your picture, but It almost looks as if the glue is wicking back into the darker colored wood. I don't know If sealing the faces before a final thin facing with the tool would help or not, but may be worth a try.


By the way, If your pins went in first, and the glue were already set on that, then You could make a joint cap type thing out of delrin to clamp the joint work while the glue sets. My pins go in after the joint work is installed so I have never tried that, but have heard of something like that being done. I do have something similar that I do using some clamps that I made, but I use those to align & glue ringwork together before going into the cue with It.
 
Last edited:
pm sent

I quit using Them because the belts kept snapping, and I went to something else, but I bought a bunch of old rubber singer belts one time to run My wrap motor. They are the type that look like O-rings. Each pack came with a larger size belt that I used for that, and a smaller one that I never had a use for until this. They are fairly thick, so They have quite a bit of elasticity and seem to work well. My thinking Is It may work similar to using the surgical tubing to clamp billet, or points with.

It's hard to tell from your picture, but It almost looks as if the glue is wicking back into the darker colored wood. I don't know If sealing the faces before a final thin facing with the tool would help or not, but may be worth a try.


By the way, If your pins went in first, and the glue were already set on that, then You could make a joint cap type thing out of delrin to clamp the joint work while the glue sets. My pins go in after the joint work is installed so I have never tried that, but have heard of something like that being done. I do have something similar that I do using some clamps that I made, but I use those to align & glue ringwork together before going into the cue with It.

PM sent about the o-ring press.
 
What size is the tenon and the ID of the collar ?
How did you face that tenon/shoulder ?
What tool bit ?

The collar material; did you bore then face it ?
 
Make sure the bit you are facing with is very sharp. If it isn't the maple will tare slightly or something. Then it soaks up the glue and makes a more visible line. At least I think that is what happens from what I have observed.

When I'm making a true sneaky, if I don't use a really sharp bit I can see where the shaft and butt meet pretty easy. If you use a good bit it is much harder to see the seam.
 
Stay away from the 5 min epoxy, especially if you're not threading them on. Trust me, it's been a hard lesson learned.
 
Stay away from the 5 min epoxy, especially if you're not threading them on. Trust me, it's been a hard lesson learned.
YUUUUUUUP!!!!! get you some Bob Smith Ind. 20 or 30 min cure and leave it all night pressed up and wait a few days to turn best thing I have done!!!!
 
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