making points...

Penrose Cues

Penrose Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi,

I still have some difficulties preparing the sticks (which will be inlayed) for the short splice points.

Apparently, I still have the most difficulties being able to make one of the four angles of the stick exactly 90 degrees.

Please advise me as I would like to get better...

Thank you so very much.

Greetz,

Tom Penrose
 
Hi Tom
I know a lot of guys, use either a milling machine, belt sander, planer and or router table for making squares with 90's on them, I prefer the jointer, once the blades are set correctly, works pretty good. Some caution, most are afraid of jointer machines, It's very unforgiven if you don't show it proper respect. On the blades, Best way to set the blades is to use an indicator made for jointer tables, Cost about 100.00 from wood craft but well worth it.
 
Not that Mike's expertise needs my validation, but I agree with the jointer. Great machine when set up accurately.

Scott
 
I use the jointer and got perfect results as you can see in my avatar;); however, a milling machine would be the ultimate IMO.
 
can you explain the problem in a little more detail.
I have had problems here and there. Mine came in when the point wood angle was off as well as the groove angle being off. I have since become pretty anal about my wood being square. you have to get lucky with a planer, most of the time you can only get a parrallelogram from it. Get a jointer with a good solid fence!

The other big thing i found out was that even if my point wood was perfectly square, it didnt matter because i was using a cheap v-groove cutter. Dick once pointed out that most V groove bits are not a perfect 90 degrees. I checked and of course he was right. Bought about 4 different brands until i found one close. Think the best way i've seen is to use a mill with a straight bit and negative undercut and just tilt the head 45 degrees. Think Steve Klein has a picture of this on his website.

Anyway, just some things to think about
 
Michael Webb said:
Hi Tom
I know a lot of guys, use either a milling machine, belt sander, planer and or router table for making squares with 90's on them, I prefer the jointer, once the blades are set correctly, works pretty good. Some caution, most are afraid of jointer machines, It's very unforgiven if you don't show it proper respect. On the blades, Best way to set the blades is to use an indicator made for jointer tables, Cost about 100.00 from wood craft but well worth it.
Click to expand...

I also use a jointer. It is an old 4 inch one from Sears. Most wood workers would think of it as a toy but for squaring the point stock it is perfect.

http://www.omurtlak.com/resim.php?resim=http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00921762000
 
Michael Webb said:
Hi Tom
I know a lot of guys, use either a milling machine, belt sander, planer and or router table for making squares with 90's on them, I prefer the jointer, once the blades are set correctly, works pretty good. Some caution, most are afraid of jointer machines, It's very unforgiven if you don't show it proper respect. On the blades, Best way to set the blades is to use an indicator made for jointer tables, Cost about 100.00 from wood craft but well worth it.
Click to expand...

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the advice, but I seem to have too many problems not being able to keep the board 100% flat on the jointer.

Somehow the pressure I put on the board when making a pass is not even and thus the angle is off 9 out of 10 times.

I've tried it with a planer aswell, also without succes...

I'm desperate... What am I doing wrong???

Tom Penrose
 
Penrose Cues said:
Hi Mike,

Thanks for the advice, but I seem to have too many problems not being able to keep the board 100% flat on the jointer.

Somehow the pressure I put on the board when making a pass is not even and thus the angle is off 9 out of 10 times.

I've tried it with a planer aswell, also without succes...

I'm desperate... What am I doing wrong???

Tom Penrose
Click to expand...

What do you mean when you say board? What size exactly is of the piece are you trying to true up?
 
Penrose Cues said:
Hi Mike,

Thanks for the advice, but I seem to have too many problems not being able to keep the board 100% flat on the jointer.

Somehow the pressure I put on the board when making a pass is not even and thus the angle is off 9 out of 10 times.

I've tried it with a planer aswell, also without succes...

I'm desperate... What am I doing wrong???

Tom Penrose
Click to expand...


This will solve most problems with jointers. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003200/2681/Oneway-Multi-Gauge.aspx
The first side is the toughest, After the blades are set correctly, meaning the blade is set a -0- with the table on the left side, the right side is to control how much of a cut you want to make, 2nd step, make sure your fence is aligned with the table, use a square. As long as you hold the piece against the fence, that you know is set at 90 degrees, let the jointer do the rest. I was a complete knit when I first started using the jointer, the boys at Jet helped me a lot. When first squaring a rough piece, I set it at .008 cut approx. after that, I adjust the table to .004 for a cleaner cut.
You never have to mess with the table on the left side, that should always be -0- with the knives. You can also set the knives at .004 at the get go, and you know both tables set at -0- will always give to a .004 cut.
 
Michael Webb said:
This will solve most problems with jointers. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003200/2681/Oneway-Multi-Gauge.aspx
The first side is the toughest, After the blades are set correctly, meaning the blade is set a -0- with the table on the left side, the right side is to control how much of a cut you want to make, 2nd step, make sure your fence is aligned with the table, use a square. As long as you hold the piece against the fence, that you know is set at 90 degrees, let the jointer do the rest. I was a complete knit when I first started using the jointer, the boys at Jet helped me a lot. When first squaring a rough piece, I set it at .008 cut approx. after that, I adjust the table to .004 for a cleaner cut.
You never have to mess with the table on the left side, that should always be -0- with the knives. You can also set the knives at .004 at the get go, and you know both tables set at -0- will always give to a .004 cut.
Click to expand...

Thank you so very much Mike...

I'm gonna follow your valuable advice and tips and try to achieve a perfect 90degree angle...

Thanks to you too Arnie, Macguy, LGSM3, SK custom cues and Scott,

Tom Penrose
 
Penrose Cues said:
I would think about 4 inches x 10 inches to 20 inches... Between 1/2 Inch and 1,5 Inch thick...

Tom
Click to expand...

Maybe I don't get what it is you are asking with those dimensions. If you are talking about making point stock I usually rough them out to about 7/8 x 7/8 x 9 inches Then true them up on the jointer and that's it. It just takes a few seconds. I can do a whole stack of them in a short time and they will be perfect. Maybe it takes a little bit of a learning curve and I am not saying it is the only way to do it. But it is so easy I don't see a reason to even explore another way to do it. Like using any piece of equipment in your shop the jointer has to be set up correctly. A lot of the problems people have working with machines often comes down to proper set up and maintenance. The machine is there to do the work for you, not to make it harder.
 
I also use a 4" planner fro
sears. I almost cut my pinky off a few years ago. The piece of wood caught and hit the wall and my hand kept going. I didn't turn that machine on for a month after that. Scared
 
dave sutton said:
I also use a 4" planner fro
sears. I almost cut my pinky off a few years ago. The piece of wood caught and hit the wall and my hand kept going. I didn't turn that machine on for a month after that. Scared
Click to expand...
You really need jigs for holding and always use a push stick. A jointer like a table saw are not forgiving if you make a mistake. I always use a spring clamp on the fence with a scrap piece of wood as a hold down to stop kick back. The thought of putting your hand into a jointer gives you a chill. The are no pieces even left to sew back on.
 
When I first started wood working a few years back, none other than Marc Spagnuolo inspired me after watching his 'cutting board' video. I have watched nearly all of his videos and also followed his mentor, David Marks.

Watch this video on Jointing and I will guarantee you will feel much better about getting your stock nice and square.

Good Luck.....
 
I got rid of my jointer years ago and went to the belt sander to get my squares perfect for going down into the point grooves. I built a fence on the side of my sander and adjusted it to a perfect 90 degree angle to the belt. Then I put my square on it and push it down on the belt. I rotate the side I just sanded up against the fence and sand another side. I repeat this process a few times around the square and have pieces ready to go.
 
cueman said:
I got rid of my jointer years ago and went to the belt sander to get my squares perfect for going down into the point grooves. I built a fence on the side of my sander and adjusted it to a perfect 90 degree angle to the belt. Then I put my square on it and push it down on the belt. I rotate the side I just sanded up against the fence and sand another side. I repeat this process a few times around the square and have pieces ready to go.
Click to expand...

Tap, Tap Chris, I still have the fence on my sander also. Not all woods like the jointer, Like curly pink ivory,
 
cueman said:
I got rid of my jointer years ago and went to the belt sander to get my squares perfect for going down into the point grooves. I built a fence on the side of my sander and adjusted it to a perfect 90 degree angle to the belt. Then I put my square on it and push it down on the belt. I rotate the side I just sanded up against the fence and sand another side. I repeat this process a few times around the square and have pieces ready to go.
Click to expand...
Looks good
http://www.hightowercues.com/images/shoptour003.jpg
 
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