making your own metal rings????

[DaveK]

Sometimes I am not too bright, but won't the ID burr be buried/glued inside the cue and the OD burr be turned off when finishing the cue OD ? These don't seem like issues to me. With enough clamping pressure these burrs will either flatten out or embed into the wood. Note that I am still not a cuemaker, just a guy who uses scissor-cut brass shim stock in machine building applications.

Dave

 

[BHQ]

Sometimes I am not too bright, but won't the ID burr be buried/glued inside the cue and the OD burr be turned off when finishing the cue OD ? These don't seem like issues to me. With enough clamping pressure these burrs will either flatten out or embed into the wood. Note that I am still not a cuemaker, just a guy who uses scissor-cut brass shim stock in machine building applications.

Dave

hi dave
the outside would be NO problem
the inside if there is a lip or burr, it may prevent it from laying flat against the next ring, wood, etc.
i dunno, we'll see soon enough
whenever i get around to trying this
could be days, weeks, months, or years

 

[Craig Fales]

that is an option, i know.
but that would tie up my one and only lathe, waiting for epoxy to dry before facing off.
i'll buy a couple sheets of the 7 or 8, just for the helluvit , and we'll see how it works out

I don't use my lathe for clamping. If you're referring to using a tailstock to apply pressure on the ring.

That would be pretty tough. A threaded collar putting pressure on them keeps them from spinning.

I'm not sure what you're saying there.

 

[BHQ]

I don't use my lathe for clamping. If you're referring to using a tailstock to apply pressure on the ring.


I'm not sure what you're saying there.

yes, using the tailstock and some delrin things i made for rings
it's the best 1100 pound clamp i have :wink:

 

[conetip]

The easyway to make rings is to make a stack holder. It is a something that goes into the lathe chuck. Then you stackup your set of shims. I use some 1/8 ali on the top and bottom as a support plate. All is clamped down with 4 capscrews and the top plate that clamps everything is 3/8 thick. Then you can drill and bore the id of the shims.
Then the stack goes onto a mandrel and trun the od. I make the headshims in sets of .001 ,.003,.005,.008 shims. The 1 thou shims are between the 3 and 5 thou shims. On the finish cut I use .002 feedrate and the tool has a wiper that is .005 wide.
Then when they are done the shims just seperate.
Neil

 

[KJ Cues]

Veneer Ring Fixture

While we're on the subject of cutting-out rings from sheet or veneer, I welcome you to take a look at something I've been working on. I wasn't going to release these just yet but it seems there is an immediate need.

I've come up with these nifty little fixtures for cutting trim rings from dyed veneer sheet though I don't know why they wouldn't work on any sheet mtrl. of your choice. The purpose of the fixture is to keep the veneer securely clamped so that the tenon hole can be bored without splitting the veneer. My method of cutting veneer rings is done on my milling machine with an appropriately sized end-mill. I suppose it could be mounted on a drill press but I would still use an end-mill. I prefer the end-mill as opposed to a drill because a drill has a tendency to tear the mtrl. away, whereas the end-mill cuts the perimeter of the drop/cut-out and leaves a very nice cut-edge.

For a joint size ring, cut a 1" square of the mtrl. you want to use, center it in the fixture, replace the top plate and evenly tighten down the nuts to secure the mtrl. in the fixture. Whether you use a drill press or mill, bring the cutting tool down to accurately align with the hole and plunge through at the spindle RPM that works best for you.

I'm offering these in two different congifurations, a two-hole version (5/8 & 3/4") for $50. and a three-hole (5/8, 3/4 & 7/8") for $75.
Price includes s/h & fees. Paypal acct. ( kjcues@hotmail.com ).

Feel free to copy my design to make one for yourself, it's really just basic machining. For those not set-up for that or just don't have the time, I'm making these available. These will have the stainless steel clamping/aligning studs TiG welded into the base though the first one that I built just used bolts. The pics are of the first one I built so as to illustrate the concept. The ones I'm building for sale are considerably nicer in appearence. Also, I do a simple water-quench case hardening at the edge of the hole to promote longevity of the tool. I was thinking of adding drill-bushings but that would have increased the price by 50%.

Thanx Much, KJ

 

[KJ Cues]

Sorry....double post.
Seems to happen occasionally at 6/7 am.