Matching a shaft to a butt

Billyard

Billyard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I purchased a cue with 2 shafts and fancy ringwork.

I play with an 11.75 OB Shaft.

Would it be easier and cheaper to buy an OB blank and send it to the cuemaker with one of the existing shafts? He can then remove the ringwork from existing shaft and put on new shaft?

Other choice is to send in the butt and have the cuemaker duplicate this ringwork.. I know this will be more expensive though plus I dont really need 3 shafts.
 
Billyard said:
I purchased a cue with 2 shafts and fancy ringwork.

I play with an 11.75 OB Shaft.

Would it be easier and cheaper to buy an OB blank and send it to the cuemaker with one of the existing shafts? He can then remove the ringwork from existing shaft and put on new shaft?

Other choice is to send in the butt and have the cuemaker duplicate this ringwork.. I know this will be more expensive though plus I dont really need 3 shafts.
Click to expand...

1. I'd send the OB shaft to whomever made the cue. Yes I would use a blank.

2. Contact Ryan(Ratcues) and see if he can match it. He has an extensive supply of material to do exactly what you need.

Consider that hacking the existing ringwork off of your custom shaft will essentially cost you 150-200(depending on how much the maker charges) then 250-300 for the OB shaft, PLUS now if you ever want to sell your cue it no longer has 2 original shafts.........
 
If it were me, I'd leave your two orig. shafts alone.
Depending on who built the cue, each orig. shaft could be worth $200/300.
Cut the ring-work off and it's now a $2 tomato stake.
If I were the builder, I wouldn't be real happy about you crucifying my work.

Without a pic, we don't know how complex the ring-work in question is.
If it's done CNC, the builder maybe the only one to do this for you.
He obviously would have the program to duplicate his work.
Your first course of action should always be with the orig. builder.

Some of us here specialize in duplicating ring-work. Ryan Theewen is a good choice.
If the artist is good, you won't be able to tell the difference btwn his work and the orig.
You can never have too many shafts, extras only enhance the value of the cue.
You may want to give this some thought before you needlessly throw money away.

HTHs, KJ
 
pescadoman said:
1. I'd send the OB shaft to whomever made the cue. Yes I would use a blank.

2. Contact Ryan(Ratcues) and see if he can match it. He has an extensive supply of material to do exactly what you need.

Consider that hacking the existing ringwork off of your custom shaft will essentially cost you 150-200(depending on how much the maker charges) then 250-300 for the OB shaft, PLUS now if you ever want to sell your cue it no longer has 2 original shafts.........
Click to expand...

I think the easy solution is just to not have collars or rings on the third shaft.
Just a good insert so the face doesn't split.
You'd be surprised how a collarless shaft flows with the cue's look.
 
KJ quote:
"If it were me, I'd leave your two orig. shafts alone.
Depending on who built the cue, each orig. shaft could be worth $200/300.
Cut the ring-work off and it's now a $2 tomato stake."

This is right on the money. If one shaft was worn out, badly warped, etc., that would be different, but if it's sound, why waste it? I can't see it.

Besides, three shafts is a great thing to have...certainly not money wasted.

I like Joey's solution. No collar looks pretty darned good on a lot of cues.

Robin Snyder
 
Some good advice here.

I think I will check it out with no collar and if I must have it matched; I will reach out to the original cue maker first. He is still around so I think he would be able to create a matching shaft with no problems.
 
I will never cut the collars off of a playable shaft. I will only cut the collars off of a junk shaft IF I have no other options.

Post pics of the cue's collars and I'll see what I can do.
 
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