Matching ringwork

mattb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have an old R series Schon with stitch rings and want to get a Jacoby Hybrid shaft blank and have the rings matched. Got a few questions.

Should I buy the blank and send it off or let the cue guy buy it?

Do I really need to send the cue in? I had Runde build a few shafts a few years ago and they fit perfect without sending the cue in.

Who should I get to do it? Runde isn’t interested in the job.
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Not the hardest rings to do, but in general I always like to have the actual cue I do work on, even Schon used to say on they website that for a perfect fit and finish, it was best if they had the actual cue.
 

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Any qualified repair person or Cuemaker can do that for you. Find out his preference on acquiring blank.

Mario
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have an old R series Schon with stitch rings and want to get a Jacoby Hybrid shaft blank and have the rings matched. Got a few questions.

Should I buy the blank and send it off or let the cue guy buy it?

Do I really need to send the cue in? I had Runde build a few shafts a few years ago and they fit perfect without sending the cue in.

Who should I get to do it? Runde isn’t interested in the job.


Define perfect fit without sending in the butt to someone except Schon.. I've worked on early Schons and the joint o.d. was not what it is today or 10 years ago for that matter.
But,
First determine the size of your joint screw. Is it 5/16x14 or is it .302x14.
Brass insert sticks out .130 and is approximately .530 o.d. the joint o.d. is .836.
Hope this helps.
 

mattb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Define perfect fit without sending in the butt to someone except Schon.. I've worked on early Schons and the joint o.d. was not what it is today or 10 years ago for that matter.
But,
First determine the size of your joint screw. Is it 5/16x14 or is it .302x14.
Brass insert sticks out .130 and is approximately .530 o.d. the joint o.d. is .836.
Hope this helps.

It does help. I was leaning towards sending it off, but was on the fence.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It does help. I was leaning towards sending it off, but was on the fence.

Hi Matt
I came back to edit but I'll add it here. Jacoby uses the new self aligning insert usually. It is standard 5/16x14 and the head of the insert is .500. You might want to ask them if you want the insert to look like Schon.
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
If you can sacrifice the original shaft...... you can cut 3 inches of the joint off and insert it into a new shaft..... I do it all the time

Kim
 

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
If you can sacrifice the original shaft...... you can cut 3 inches of the joint off and insert it into a new shaft..... I do it all the time

Kim

You cut 3" off then turn it down right up to the rings? Bore hole in new shaft and epoxy in new shaft? Threaded?
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
You cut 3" off then turn it down right up to the rings? Bore hole in new shaft and epoxy in new shaft? Threaded?

I cut off about 3 inches and then screw the piece on a arbor so the tenon will be concentric .....I sometimes use the butt as an arbor..... I turn the tenon to .600 carefully right up to the rings........ I get a blank shaft and face and bore a hole in it about 2 inches deep..... dry fit it together..... trim the tenon until it just bottoms out and the rings sit flush..... I file some glue grooves on the tenon and file one side with a flat so the excess glue can escape..... I use 5 min epoxy and glue it up..... quickly put it in the lathe with the arbor and twist the new shaft on the tenon until you get it to the best position with the least run out at the tip...... press little with the tail stock until the epoxy has set up................... when the epoxy has set.... turn the shaft like you would a new shaft................... I have never had a problem and no one can ever tell it was done...


Kim
 
Top