Matching up the ferrule with the shaft?

[AkersCues]

Hello all my name is Bill Akers I have only been making cues for about two years now. Recently I have been having problems mathing the ferrule up with the shaft. If any of you have some helpfull info that you would be willing to reliquish it would greatly appreciated.

Thanks Bill Akers
Akers Cues

www.akerscues.com

 

[Sheldon]

Your question is a bit vague, and you will get much better help if you try and be specific. Exactly what are the problems are you having?

 

[RSB-Refugee]

Hello all my name is Bill Akers I have only been making cues for about two years now. Recently I have been having problems mathing the ferrule up with the shaft. If any of you have some helpfull info that you would be willing to reliquish it would greatly appreciated.

Thanks Bill Akers
Akers Cues

www.akerscues.com

You say, that you are recently having trouble. Did you start using a different ferrule material? I cut the ferrule slightly larger than the shaft, then with sandpaper only as wide as the ferrule or slightly less. Sand the ferrule until it is just a little bit smaller than the shaft. Mask the shaft wood perfecly at the wood to plastic seam. Next apply a coat of thin CA glue to the ferrule. Take the masking tape off and give the glue a couple minutes to dry well. Then with 1500 grit, polish the shaft and ferrule simultaneously. Don't sand clear through the CA glue. What makes it hard is, the wood is softer than the ferrule, so the paper cuts it faster than it does the ferrule. The CA glue is easier to feather to the wood, plus it repels chalk dust pretty well. I'm not saying, this is the best way, but it works for me. Good luck with it.

Tracy

 

[AkersCues]

Your question is a bit vague, and you will get much better help if you try and be specific. Exactly what are the problems are you having?

Basicly When finishing a shaft for a new cue I sand with 220 then 400 then 600 and when it is the right size I then I cut the tenon and thread it, I put on the ferrule "usualy ivorene3" and the tip then I cut the ferrule and tip to match up to the shaft. After that I seal the saft sand with 800 then seal again sand with 1000, 1200 and 1500 then burish it and wax it up. But it seems like the shaft is always about .05-.10th of a mm smaller than the ferrule thus creating a lip a the transition point from the shaft to the ferrule. I guess if you guys can offer any advice or critisism on my proccess it would be very helpfull

thanks again, Bill Akers
Akers Cues

 

[Tommy-D]

> I've always been told that you should undersize the ferrule .002-.003,then bring the wood down to match. When using pre-fab ferrules,this is a LOT easier. McDermott has their ferrules cut to .510,when installing on a brand new shaft blank that is turned to .512 or so,all it takes is a bit of sanding with 600 paper and it comes out perfect. So far,I have only installed 10 screw on type ferrules,all were made from solid rod. I drilled,bored,and tapped them,then changed my set-up a little. I used a standard 5/16-18 lathe pin,and screwed it into the ferrule. After moving my live center up to the ferrule,I indicated the ferrule and took several small cuts. I measured the shafts several times,and took the ferrule down to .002 over finish size,then sanded out to 400,then installed them and let dry. All of them fit very nice,and minimal sanding was needed to match them up perfect with no ridge or swell. It is probably best to do this final match with the lathe turned off,sanding with the grain,and using a flat paint stir stick or something similar to keep the surface flat. Tommy D.

 

[rhncue]

Basicly When finishing a shaft for a new cue I sand with 220 then 400 then 600 and when it is the right size I then I cut the tenon and thread it, I put on the ferrule "usualy ivorene3" and the tip then I cut the ferrule and tip to match up to the shaft. After that I seal the saft sand with 800 then seal again sand with 1000, 1200 and 1500 then burish it and wax it up. But it seems like the shaft is always about .05-.10th of a mm smaller than the ferrule thus creating a lip a the transition point from the shaft to the ferrule. I guess if you guys can offer any advice or critisism on my proccess it would be very helpfull

thanks again, Bill Akers
Akers Cues

If you are burnishing your shaft after complete then you should leave the shaft slightly larger than the ferrule as I believe burnishing compresses the shaft slightly. Also, on new shafts, After the shaft is completed I go back a few days later as often the shaft will swell just slightly so that you can feel an edge where the shaft and ferrule meet. I normally just have to hit it with 1000 grit and repolish. It's easy to sand down just slightly to the ferrule later than trying to figure out a way to increase the size of the shaft. Wood, unlike metal, doesn't take well to knurling.
Dick

 

[JoeyInCali]

If you are burnishing your shaft after complete then you should leave the shaft slightly larger than the ferrule as I believe burnishing compresses the shaft slightly. Also, on new shafts, After the shaft is completed I go back a few days later as often the shaft will swell just slightly so that you can feel an edge where the shaft and ferrule meet. I normally just have to hit it with 1000 grit and repolish. It's easy to sand down just slightly to the ferrule later than trying to figure out a way to increase the size of the shaft. Wood, unlike metal, doesn't take well to knurling.
Dick

Sounds to me the ferrule material is much harder than the wood.
Can't he just coat the shaft ( near the ferrule ) with epoxy, sand down gently with fine paper ( stuck to a flat plastic thicker but about the size of a credit card)?

 

[Sheldon]

Basicly When finishing a shaft for a new cue I sand with 220 then 400 then 600 and when it is the right size I then I cut the tenon and thread it, I put on the ferrule "usualy ivorene3" and the tip then I cut the ferrule and tip to match up to the shaft. After that I seal the saft sand with 800 then seal again sand with 1000, 1200 and 1500 then burish it and wax it up. But it seems like the shaft is always about .05-.10th of a mm smaller than the ferrule thus creating a lip a the transition point from the shaft to the ferrule. I guess if you guys can offer any advice or critisism on my proccess it would be very helpfull

My advice would be to under cut the ferrule very slightly, or cut small strips of sandpaper that will allow you to sand ONLY the ferrule when you are finishing it out. It really depends on how nice of a cut you can make on it, which will determine how much sanding you have to do to it. The more sanding you have to do the harder it will be to make things match up right.
I put ferrules on before sanding shafts, and under cut them very slightly. If you are taking a lot of wood off when you sand your shafts down, you might notice some shrinking, which will cause what you are experiencing if you match the ferrule up right away.