McDermott / ferrule question

[billyjack]

I just bought a used McDermott as a "beater" to take to the places I woudn't bring my "good" McD. Bumper has a hole in the center with a 10-24 stovebolt that threads into a 7/8 or so diameter metal insert with a slot across the diameter. Every other McD I've seen has a bumper that requires a dedicated tool to remove. Is a this factory McDermott setup? An older one or cheaper one maybe? Also, the spare shaft has a 1 1/4" long ferrule. I've never noticed one that long. It seems to hit "softer" than the factory shafts. Could the ferrule length have any effect on the hit, or is it more likely something not so visible? Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to answer. As a newbie to this forum, I think it's outstanding that those who have endured all the time and effort it takes to learn proficiency in cuebuilding are willing to share their knowledge. If there's anything left of me once the kids get thru college, I'd definitely look in the direction of the contributors to this forum once I can swing the bucks toward my first custom cue. Thanks again.
Bill

 

[RiverCity]

Probably older. The D series and before used that type of setup on the bumper. If you have a digital camera, post some pics...... somebody will be able to identify the model number for you.
Chuck

 

[rhncue]

I just bought a used McDermott as a "beater" to take to the places I woudn't bring my "good" McD. Bumper has a hole in the center with a 10-24 stovebolt that threads into a 7/8 or so diameter metal insert with a slot across the diameter. Every other McD I've seen has a bumper that requires a dedicated tool to remove. Is a this factory McDermott setup? An older one or cheaper one maybe? Also, the spare shaft has a 1 1/4" long ferrule. I've never noticed one that long. It seems to hit "softer" than the factory shafts. Could the ferrule length have any effect on the hit, or is it more likely something not so visible? Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to answer. As a newbie to this forum, I think it's outstanding that those who have endured all the time and effort it takes to learn proficiency in cuebuilding are willing to share their knowledge. If there's anything left of me once the kids get thru college, I'd definitely look in the direction of the contributors to this forum once I can swing the bucks toward my first custom cue. Thanks again.
Bill

Probably a D model that has a fibre sleeve ferrule. They are very soft and crack proof. That drilled and tapped slotted metal thing is actually the weight bolt.

Dick

 

[Cue Crazy]

I have one that's maybe late 80's-early 90's as far as I know, and It has a screw through the bumper. If Yours is the same same as mine, the thing with the straight slot is the weight bolt. I have the bolt out of mine to lighten the cue up, but the batteries need charged in My camera, so I have no picture of It.

Greg C

 

[billyjack]

My thanks to all who replied. I feel better knowing it's a real McD. Shot with it last night for the first time, and it hits just the same as my first string player, except for the difference in linen vs. leather wrap and 1/2 oz. lighter weight. Unwound the weight insert today and weighed it. I'll just get a 3 1/2 oz. slug from McDermott. I'm still puzzled about the spare, non-factroy shaft. "Hit" feels noticeably softer than either of my McD shafts. They all weigh the same, but the extra shaft has a 1 1/4 in long ferrule, 1/4 in. longer than usual. Could that be the reason for the softer hit? Tip appears to be as hard or harder than the Moori Med. or Triumph Med. I normally use, and taper matches the factory shafts pretty close. I just ordered some hard Sumo tips, since I'd like to use this shaft for breaking. Do you think it would help if I cut the ferrule down? I don't know yet if it's capped or not. Will cut old the tip off once new tips arrive. I realize this isn't an exact science-just looking for some educated opinions. Once again thanks for the help.

Bill