mcdermott
- Thread starter havoc
- Start date
havoc said:
Yes, they do in most cases feel butt heavy, however, the new ones with the Stainless Steel joint seem to ballance the cue a little more. But even some of these are way to farword heavy, this is what you kinda have to expect from production cues. While many have know problem with this, and they do still play well, this should never be a problem with a Custom Cue.
Oh and by the way, the above problem can also be corrected some what by changing the cues weight bolt. Another thing to think about would be to have a cue maker or good repair person re-ballance the cue, by installing a plug where the weight bolt is. In McDermotts, the weight bolt cavity is very large and very deep, by plugging this cavity with a hard wood, and installing a smaller wieght bolt the cue can be effectively ballanced.
Hope this helps, and have a good day!!
manwon said:
I feel there is a vast difference between the older McDermotts (B,C,D series) and the newer. In my experince the newer have lost a lot of feel. I guess I am saying I at times wonder how those cues can have the same name and such a different feel. I'm not saying one is worse than the other; it is totally personal preference.
Thanks for the time.
Jallan said:
I totally agree, and much of this is the way that the cue has this huge inter-changeable weight bolt system, that go's through the entire butt and half way into the handle of the cue. The older McDermott's used a 5/16 weight bolt, the cavity was small, and this made the cue feel much more solid / strong. This weight bolt is just another way to make things easily inter-changeable.
Have a good day!!!
I have a couple E-Series McD Cocobolo cues. They have the 1/2-13 weight bolt cavity. I removed 2 oz. factory bolt, cut a 1 oz. piece off a similar threaded bolt, and cut a slot in one end. Using a flat blade screwdriver, I then wound the new piece into the threaded cavity until it bottomed(about 6 inches). The balance point with a 4 oz. shaft was previously 11 1/4 in. from the joint. With my homemade weight bolt now being lighter and deeper into the butt, the balance point moved to 9 5/8 from the joint. May not be a textbook modification, but it sure felt better to me, and is completely reversible. You'll need very strong thumbs to work the butt cap off, or just have a dealer use his "McGripper" pliers.
Bill
Bill
billyjack said:
Great idea Bill, that is kinda what I was saying above, all these cues can be modified. Bill the text book is for those without understanding, mechanical ability and imagination, like anything else thinking outside the box within reason is the way to make things happen while others are still waiting for a solution!!!!!
Have a good night Bill!!!
manwon said:
thanks for the reply.
i actually like the heavy butt feel of the cue.
my first stick was a mali(still have it).it was from the 80's and was made by cuesport.i started out with the 3/8-10 pin wood to wood joint.i've been back playing pool and have been playing with a ss jointed lucasi.i seem to like the wood to wood better and want to get another one.the mali is purple which was fine when i was 17 but not now.
i was thinking of getting either a schmelke or dominiak built until i tried the mcdermott.
are there any other cue makers whether production or custom that are butt heavy besides mcdermott?
I have been a McDermott fan since the mid 80s after I had owned Pool League,Dufferin and then McD. My old D1 got stolen and I quit playing at that time (91). Back again in 2005 I started and I bough a new McD. It was not as I remembered it so I did try another one (M207). Not 100% satisfied so I then started scouting for a old D series on Ebay. Managed to get a D22 and boy did that bring me back to my teenage years 
Long story short; The old one used fully spliced butt's where the new one most likely don't. My M207 do have a much more forward placed balance point, but I guess this is related to the ebony used. The old D series was also ticker in the butt section.
The bottom line is that using my OB1 on both Qs do feel different.
This do not answer you?re question about other butt heavy sticks, but I would recommend looking at a old McD and having a go on one of these. In my country everybody seems to be pimped with Predator so it?s nice to have something different
N
Long story short; The old one used fully spliced butt's where the new one most likely don't. My M207 do have a much more forward placed balance point, but I guess this is related to the ebony used. The old D series was also ticker in the butt section.
The bottom line is that using my OB1 on both Qs do feel different.
This do not answer you?re question about other butt heavy sticks, but I would recommend looking at a old McD and having a go on one of these. In my country everybody seems to be pimped with Predator so it?s nice to have something different
N
Newton said:Back again in 2005 I started and I bough a new McD. It was not as I remembered it so I did try another one (M207). Not 100% satisfied so I then started scouting for a old D series on Ebay. Managed to get a D22 and boy did that bring me back to my teenage years
N
I hear your comments echoed by many other D-series owners. I think a lot of us would hold out for a fine price before we let them go. I will never by a new mcdermott but would be willing to shell out quite a bit if I had to replace my old one. I don't shoot it much anymore just for the fact I am fearful to have it stolen. The centimental value would be too much to replace. No matter where the balance point is, it is the cue I learned to shoot with and I don't think it will ever feel wrong.
Thanks for the time.
It might be that I'm replaying my childhood experience, but for me my dear D1 was the one I really started to get in to pool with. It was a dear loss and as mentioned I quit playing when it was stolen. Getting my "new" D22 from Ebay had me excited like a kid on Christmas day
But then I guess this story could be told by many of us here, where all of us have our own Q to remember so this might not be related to the McD "D" series it self but my/our memory from "the good old day's"
Anyway, I did not mean to do any thread Hijacking here so please forgive me for gettin a little sentimental
N
But then I guess this story could be told by many of us here, where all of us have our own Q to remember so this might not be related to the McD "D" series it self but my/our memory from "the good old day's"
Anyway, I did not mean to do any thread Hijacking here so please forgive me for gettin a little sentimental
N
You might take a look at . . .
Adams / Helmstetter (Japanese made one) . . . my first nice cue was a signature Steve Mizerak Adams cue - bought it in '78 for $110 . . . that was pretty big money back then. Anyway, the weighting of all their cues were noticeably more "butt" heavy, with the balance point just barely making it to the top of the wrap . . . not nearly as forward as most of the cues made today.
I've got a cheap 2004 McD I take to the bars for league nights . . . its definitely more butt heavy then my two Joss cues, BUT . . . I've fallen in love with it . . . there's something up with that wood joint.
Most production cues can have the weight "repositioned" through some creativity with the bolt . . . I moved weight back slightly on one of my Joss's by pulling the screw, putting on some threadlocker, and then tightening it back in about an inch less then being fully seated. The threadlocker keeps the screw from falling out. The overall cue weight stayed the same . . . but it moved the balance back a slight bit. You can get threadlocker at any automotive or hardware store.
Adams / Helmstetter (Japanese made one) . . . my first nice cue was a signature Steve Mizerak Adams cue - bought it in '78 for $110 . . . that was pretty big money back then. Anyway, the weighting of all their cues were noticeably more "butt" heavy, with the balance point just barely making it to the top of the wrap . . . not nearly as forward as most of the cues made today.
I've got a cheap 2004 McD I take to the bars for league nights . . . its definitely more butt heavy then my two Joss cues, BUT . . . I've fallen in love with it . . . there's something up with that wood joint.
Most production cues can have the weight "repositioned" through some creativity with the bolt . . . I moved weight back slightly on one of my Joss's by pulling the screw, putting on some threadlocker, and then tightening it back in about an inch less then being fully seated. The threadlocker keeps the screw from falling out. The overall cue weight stayed the same . . . but it moved the balance back a slight bit. You can get threadlocker at any automotive or hardware store.