Medium Roast vs Dark Roast ( non cored )

Great question……..I’ll contact my cue maker who’s capable of building heavier version Kielwood shafts.
I haven’t found much difference but it was awhile ago I tried the Tsunami shafts & the 2.0 version was nice.

I was amazed by how many cue makers told me this wasn’t possible unless you added weight at the collar.
So I’m more skeptical of expert opinions as the KW shafts are in my cue case that I was told couldn’t be built.
 
Bavafongoul said:
Great question……..I’ll contact my cue maker who’s capable of building heavier version Kielwood shafts.
I haven’t found much difference but it was awhile ago I tried the Tsunami shafts & the 2.0 version was nice.

I was amazed by how many cue makers told me this wasn’t possible unless you added weight at the collar.
So I’m more skeptical of expert opinions as the KW shafts are in my cue case that I was told couldn’t be built.
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Nobody suggested adding weight at the collar. They suggested adding weight inside the shaft at the base. The truth of the matter is that you likely don't possess the knowledge to figure out if this was done on your special shafts without cutting them in half.

All the cuemakers who responded to your 1237 requests all told you that wood heavy enough would be difficult to find. Every one of them is capable of making the shaft you wanted, but didn't know of a source for wood that heavy. Which brings me to my next question...how do you even know how the wood was 'torrefied'? Maybe it was just roasted...which is not torrefication.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
Nobody suggested adding weight at the collar. They suggested adding weight inside the shaft at the base. The truth of the matter is that you likely don't possess the knowledge to figure out if this was done on your special shafts without cutting them in half.

All the cuemakers who responded to your 1237 requests all told you that wood heavy enough would be difficult to find. Every one of them is capable of making the shaft you wanted, but didn't know of a source for wood that heavy. Which brings me to my next question...how do you even know how the wood was 'torrefied'? Maybe it was just roasted...which is not torrefication.
Click to expand...
I guess shaft x-ray coming up....
 
Funny how presumptuous some people are…..Meucci doesn’t, Jacoby didn’t need to use a cored shaft, Schmelke doesn’t, SCDiver2112 doesn’t, Jim Pierce isn’t…..perhaps your crowd does but these guys build what you request because they take the time to locate and use the right blanks whereas other builders aren’t willing or able to do that or else it’s more likely it’s because they prefer to reduce the front end mass of the shaft by coring. I have referred several folks to Jim and everyone seems pretty delighted with the outcomes. He builds a really nice Kielwood shaft and he doesn’t sneakily add weight to the shaft without telling you, especially since he says it isn’t necessary….OMG doesn’t begin to convey my astonishment over this schmuck’s ignorance or obstinacy about cue making….WTF….he’s just a jerk but he’s entitled to his misinformed opinions.

BACK TO PUTTUNG THIS SIMIAN BACK ON IGNORE…….what an absolute idiot……BTW, funny post re: X-Ray.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
Nobody suggested adding weight at the collar. They suggested adding weight inside the shaft at the base. The truth of the matter is that you likely don't possess the knowledge to figure out if this was done on your special shafts without cutting them in half.

All the cuemakers who responded to your 1237 requests all told you that wood heavy enough would be difficult to find. Every one of them is capable of making the shaft you wanted, but didn't know of a source for wood that heavy. Which brings me to my next question...how do you even know how the wood was 'torrefied'? Maybe it was just roasted...which is not torrefication.
Click to expand...
What's the difference between roasting and torrification?
 
No difference…..I have 4 KW shafts….1 dark…….they all play the same……no discernible difference except the look.
 

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Moisture, sap and sugar gets removed but moisture has to be restored (3-6%) so the shaft doesn’t become brittle. The shaft is brought down to almost 0% moisture in a vacuum kiln and then brought back up to a stable 4% moisture level.

The goal is for the shaft to have 3-6% moisture that’s significantly drier than standard maple and relatively moisture resistant thus more resistant to warping, even when exposed to high humidity. I hope this answers any questions and the entire process is referred to as torrification.
 
My experience with a Kielwood shaft, Jacoby, I only have one. The shaft, dark roast radial 30" 3.5 oz, was a little too light in balance up front for my taste. I drilled and tapped in for a short piece of 5/16"x14 pin of .3 oz to give it a slight more forward balance for my preference. My feeling is that with this combination I get the weight I want without the front end weight of a shaft that was naturally at 3.8 oz. Also I tapered it down to 12.5 mm from the 12.75 mm as received just so it matched my other shafts that I was used to.
As to whether the front end is cored or not, or does it have lower deflection than my Jacoby Ultra shafts or Rhino carbon shafts, I am not qualified enough to tell you. I will say that I shoot all three without any compensation.
I changed the tip to an Ultraskin black med like I have on my Ultra wood shafts, but changed it again to a black soft as the hit was too harsh. I am considering going softer yet to an ultraskin pro as even with the soft it is still harsh. The shaft has an incredible amount of energy transfer, even more than my carbon shafts. The shaft has a finish that feels hard and similar to a carbon shaft.
That's all I've got on my one Kielwood shaft. Your views or experiences may be different and that's fine, but these are my views on my shaft.
 
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