whatever system works for you and you can do it quickly after practicing is the one to use
I’ve been asked to elaborate on my 3 cushion tracking system.
A Dr. Dave link to a document by Marcel Elfers is a start.
So I tried his spot and it didn’t work on the table I was on.
So I had to learn how to calibrate based on whatever the table was giving.
I first tried to calibrate my stroke since I was coming up short along the long rail.
The stroke uses top running side.
On some table just making sure you get good follow on the ball will fix that issue.
A consistent stroke is key but sometimes calibration goes beyond that.
Calibration phase:
Your objective is to find the three cushion path that goes to the mirror location.
I start in the corner and aim at the second diamond cross table and see if the repeatable stroke with top running english goes into the adjacent corner.
Adjust until you find the mirror line for that shot.
Move up the rail two diamonds to the middle of the side cushion.
Aim at the cross point Elfers says is where the cross table line between the first diamond down from the side crosses the mirror line.
If you had to adjust the first line you likely will again.
Find the three cushion track from opposite the deconstructed diamond hitting opposite the mirror diamond cross table.
Locate where those two line cross using a repeatable running top stroke and you have the magic spot for that set of rails.
There are 4 magic spot locations on a table.
A single crappy rail to mean 4 calibrations.
If it is your everyday one pocket table that makes sense.
I’ve found that Elfers spot is a good fallback for competitions where you can’t calibrate.
Secondary adjustment to Elfers method.
His point 4 uses a parallel shift from the mirror to the actual cue ball location.
I differ here using a modified
spot on the wall method.
https://billiards.colostate.edu/bd_articles/2011/feb11.pdf
In the linked document he uses different convergent spots with different magic spots.
My first encounter with a magic spot was “where the hell is there a wall? And “what spot”?
I addressed the problem by realizing that the spot on the wall wasn’t the issue, the intent was to find the aim line using the rail or diamonds.
I chose the diamonds.
Next I looked at the shot from both ends and the line crosses at the same place.
So the solution was to
become the spot on the wall.
The next issue was a consistent way of determining the spot on the wall.
The length of the shot line from rail to rail was chosen as the extended distance from the table to create a spot to use.
For example using the calibrated shot from the second diamond over the magic spot to return to the mirror, the distance from the second diamond to roughly the opposite diagonal second diamond is doubled along that line, or roughly 6 feet, about an extended cue distance from the rail.
Standing in that location (being the spot) pivot the cue to point at the actual cue ball location.
Where the pointed cue line crosses the diamond line is you target from the cue ball location.
Using this to play a safety involves somewhat of a reverse thinking and a judgement of sending the cue ball off an object ball on a line through the rail to a spot on the wall location.
You start with the mirror of the target rail location as viewed from the magic spot.
Now locate the magic spot distance calibrated to the rail to rail shot line.
Stand on the spot and look back towards the carom ball impact area.
The cue ball needs to travel from the impact zone to the spot with running side.
That’s all for now.