Moori III re-tip??!!

hookmehorns

hookmehorns

Lizard King
Silver Member
I'm looking for some expert opinions/advice out there regarding a re-placement of a moori III tip. I have a Billiard store in which I offer cue service, mainly re-tips, re-ferrule, and re-condition of shafts. I've been doing do this for about 10 years. And I have noticed that I'm having a lot more problems getting the moori III tips (ordered from Atlas) to stay glued after a 1-2 minutes like I'm used too with all my other tips, including the moori II and especially the original. I currently use the Tiger glue that I get from Tony directly and don't have many problems using it. But I difinitely notice a difference in the moori III, all around. The way it glues, they way it cuts on my lathe, and the way it plays. Nothing like what I've been used too. I would love to hear the inside scoop on the III'S and all thoughts and advice.
Thanks in advance!!

Moe
:)
 
hookmehorns said:
I'm looking for some expert opinions/advice out there regarding a re-placement of a moori III tip. I have a Billiard store in which I offer cue service, mainly re-tips, re-ferrule, and re-condition of shafts. I've been doing do this for about 10 years. And I have noticed that I'm having a lot more problems getting the moori III tips (ordered from Atlas) to stay glued after a 1-2 minutes like I'm used too with all my other tips, including the moori II and especially the original. I currently use the Tiger glue that I get from Tony directly and don't have many problems using it. But I difinitely notice a difference in the moori III, all around. The way it glues, they way it cuts on my lathe, and the way it plays. Nothing like what I've been used too. I would love to hear the inside scoop on the III'S and all thoughts and advice.
Thanks in advance!!

Moe
:)
Click to expand...

AS far as I'm concerned Moori's have always been difficult to attach. What works well is to use a super glue gel. I have been using Loctite Ultra gel with great success the last couple of years. Super glue type of glues need moisture to set them off. Moori's must be dryer than other tips as I have to lick the backs of them before I install where as for most tips I can just breath heavily on them. I put the glue onto the ferrule and then lick the back and hold in place with pressure from my thumb for 8 or 10 seconds. That usually is sufficient.

Dick
 
hookmehorns said:
I'm looking for some expert opinions/advice out there regarding a re-placement of a moori III tip. I have a Billiard store in which I offer cue service, mainly re-tips, re-ferrule, and re-condition of shafts. I've been doing do this for about 10 years. And I have noticed that I'm having a lot more problems getting the moori III tips (ordered from Atlas) to stay glued after a 1-2 minutes like I'm used too with all my other tips, including the moori II and especially the original. I currently use the Tiger glue that I get from Tony directly and don't have many problems using it. But I difinitely notice a difference in the moori III, all around. The way it glues, they way it cuts on my lathe, and the way it plays. Nothing like what I've been used too. I would love to hear the inside scoop on the III'S and all thoughts and advice.
Thanks in advance!!

Moe
:)
Click to expand...



Hello Moe, I also do a very large number of tips and I on average go through 10 to 20 Moori tips a month. I do not treat them any different than any other tip, I sand the back of the tip and I use Super Glue Gel for all my tip's. For the last five years I have been using a furniture vise that can be purchased at any Hardware Store to attach tips to a shaft and hold them in place. Since that time I have not had any problem what so ever with tips coming off once put in place except on some of the import cues with some kind of cheap plastic ferrule material.

1.jpg

Hope this helps, it has certainly worked very very well for me.
 
You're not alone, I've had issues as well, and have come here for help. The biggest tip that I recieved was to apply a bit of super glue to the back of the tip, and wiping it off, then letting it dry. Lightly sand that, and then reapply as normal. I also was using tiger glue, and hadn't had any issues, until I started tipping with Moori's. I love those tips, they play great, and I was startin to cuss em out. As Dick suggest, I switched to Loctite and no problems since. Predator's ferrule material was the most difficult that I've had issues with. On a side note, I do guarantee my work, however I've had one customer come to me asking for a retip, he showed me the shaft, and a layer of moori was still left on the ferrule. One side had been shoved in a little bit, suggesting that it had been intentionally removed. I ended up charging him for the tip. Whether I was right or wrong, I don't honestly know. I stuck with my instincts. Anyway's, just a thought to be on the look out for. Cheers, and good luck with that tip.
 
Hey guys you all are awesome for the tips and recommendations. I'm taking a bit of all and trying it out. I really do appreciate ya'll.
Talk to ya soon.

Moe
:)
 
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