Moori Med. Tip Question

[nrsnyder]

Hello,
I recently switched from a hard triangle tip to a Moori Medium. I shaped the Moori with my Williard's shaper toa nickel radius and after playing 2 racks, the top of the tip really flattened out. I didn't use it to break at all and didn't hit any really hard shots. Is it something that I am doing or does the tip require more maintenance to maintain it's shape radius? It just seems like that is a short period of time to loose it's shape. Thanks.

 

[ridewiththewind]

As with all layered tips.....they need to compress after being put on the cue. Once it has compressed fully...and it shouldn't take too long, if you play regularly...you can reshape the tip again, and you should be good to go. Bear in mind, that the tip is going to shape itself somewhat to accomodate your shooting style.....more center ball or more english.

Lisa

 

[ShootingArts]

apparently they vary

My Moori III medium is fairly soft and required reshaping several times before it settled down. I also cut it down low to minimize flattening which of course shortens the life of the tip too. This is the first Moori I have tried so I don't know how typical mine is.

Hu

Hello,
I recently switched from a hard triangle tip to a Moori Medium. I shaped the Moori with my Williard's shaper toa nickel radius and after playing 2 racks, the top of the tip really flattened out. I didn't use it to break at all and didn't hit any really hard shots. Is it something that I am doing or does the tip require more maintenance to maintain it's shape radius? It just seems like that is a short period of time to loose it's shape. Thanks.

 

[Flex]

Hello,
I recently switched from a hard triangle tip to a Moori Medium. I shaped the Moori with my Williard's shaper toa nickel radius and after playing 2 racks, the top of the tip really flattened out. I didn't use it to break at all and didn't hit any really hard shots. Is it something that I am doing or does the tip require more maintenance to maintain it's shape radius? It just seems like that is a short period of time to loose it's shape. Thanks.

Here's what I do with any tip. Shape it to a dime radius, chalk it up, then take a cue ball and begin pounding the tip, rather hard, from all directions, approximating shooting with it. You will shape the tip this way. After 150 or 200 smacks, the tip will stabilize and you'll have the effect in a couple of minutes of pounding what would take you hours to achieve by playing with it alone. Best of all, after this treatment, it will play consistently and you'll probably find you don't need to reshape often at all, just chalk up and go at it.

Flex

 

[3kushn]

Apparently the new Moori's aren't like the old. I have to deal with the new Moori's far more now than before.
One technique that supposedly the old timers used to do is after glueing a new tip on, put the cue together and pound the tip on a hard surface around 100 times. This should mushroom the tip about as far as it will go. Then take the mushroom out and sape it. I've only done this once and it worked fairly well. I just can't bring myself to do this with my brand new Dieckman.

 

[Over 40]

Last two Moori med. Ive had put on I have had to shape daily.Before these last two I rarely had to reshape them.

 

[Nick B]

The method that works best for me is to first shape it into an exaggerated point like pyramid. Then play with it for half an hour and it will harden the centre region and now you shape as required (don't touch the very centre to keep hard layer) and your in business.

Nick

 

[misterpoole]

c-clamp

I like to stick a new moori in a c-clamp. tigten the clamp over a couple of days. Then its ready to put on the ferrule. Keeps its shape and hardness.

 

[karambolista]

Here's what I do with any tip. Shape it to a dime radius, chalk it up, then take a cue ball and begin pounding the tip, rather hard, from all directions, approximating shooting with it. You will shape the tip this way. After 150 or 200 smacks, the tip will stabilize and you'll have the effect in a couple of minutes of pounding what would take you hours to achieve by playing with it alone. Best of all, after this treatment, it will play consistently and you'll probably find you don't need to reshape often at all, just chalk up and go at it.

Flex

I've seen Santos Sambajon do this technique.

 

[StevenPWaldon]

This is what I do, although without screwing the butt on. Too many things can go wrong with the joint having stress if you hit it in anything other than directly parallel with the direction of the shaft/cue.

Apparently the new Moori's aren't like the old. I have to deal with the new Moori's far more now than before.
One technique that supposedly the old timers used to do is after glueing a new tip on, put the cue together and pound the tip on a hard surface around 100 times. This should mushroom the tip about as far as it will go. Then take the mushroom out and sape it. I've only done this once and it worked fairly well. I just can't bring myself to do this with my brand new Dieckman.

 

[George]

Has anyone tried compressing one the old fashioned way with a vice before installation? It sounds like the newer Moori's are softer than the previous generation.
I still haven't had to use a new Moori III yet because I had a bag full of the older ones. I still have 1 left so I guess it will be a while before I have to.

George

 

[X Breaker]

Some players told me this technique:

Clamp the Moori and then install it, trim it. Shape it by hand downward, not using a tip shaper on the lathe. The idea is to keep all the fibre pointing downward.

Do not use any water on the rim as that tends to soften the leather, making it easy to mushroom. If you like a darker colored rim, you can color it with some brown paint, I saw Ernie do this. A brown marker will do.

Tap the side of the tip from all sides, and then hit a lot of top and bottom shots for a couple hours. This would help to push all the fibre to the center rather than outward. If you hit a lot of center ball while the tip is new, you will be pushing the fibre outward.

After a few hours, you can retrim the tip a bit, again, do not use any water on the rim.

Chalk the tip, then tap it on the side again.

The tip should be good for many months to come.

Try not to touch the tip surface with your finger because all the mositure and oil on your skin can cause problem with chalk holding. Do not try to rub your tip on the pool hall carpet when you are done because that also puts all sorts of dirts and what not onto your tip. When you start to miscue, try to tip pik the tip a bit on the side.

Hope this helps.

Richard

 

[Solartje]

Some players told me this technique:

Clamp the Moori and then install it, trim it. Shape it by hand downward, not using a tip shaper on the lathe. The idea is to keep all the fibre pointing downward.

Do not use any water on the rim as that tends to soften the leather, making it easy to mushroom. If you like a darker colored rim, you can color it with some brown paint, I saw Ernie do this. A brown marker will do.

Tap the side of the tip from all sides, and then hit a lot of top and bottom shots for a couple hours. This would help to push all the fibre to the center rather than outward. If you hit a lot of center ball while the tip is new, you will be pushing the fibre outward.

After a few hours, you can retrim the tip a bit, again, do not use any water on the rim.

Chalk the tip, then tap it on the side again.

The tip should be good for many months to come.

Try not to touch the tip surface with your finger because all the mositure and oil on your skin can cause problem with chalk holding. Do not try to rub your tip on the pool hall carpet when you are done because that also puts all sorts of dirts and what not onto your tip. When you start to miscue, try to tip pik the tip a bit on the side.

Hope this helps.

Richard

richard thx for the very good explenation now at least its CLEAR to me
ive never changed a tip, but with this post im not afraid anymore to do it wrong. i might try some housecues first just to be sure. i always prefered to do the thing myself, then at least, im sure that if it **** up, it will be my own fault and no one else to blame.