Motor Speed Controller

Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
I am upgrading the motor on my deluxe and I have a treadmill motor with the following specs: 130 vdc 2.5 hp, continous duty at 1.5 hp at 95vdc. Any recommendations for a reasonably priced controller? I am looking at this one at the moment http://www.dartcontrols.com/product-guide/analog-dc-speed-controls/250g/
I think with making the correct adjustments using 240vac input, and not pegging the speed control, it may do the job without damaging anything.
I do not have the room on the bench to use an AC motor for doing coring, nor under the bench either so DC is the way.
Thanks in advance,
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
I am upgrading the motor on my deluxe and I have a treadmill motor with the following specs: 130 vdc 2.5 hp, continous duty at 1.5 hp at 95vdc. Any recommendations for a reasonably priced controller? I am looking at this one at the moment http://www.dartcontrols.com/product-guide/analog-dc-speed-controls/250g/
I think with making the correct adjustments using 240vac input, and not pegging the speed control, it may do the job without damaging anything.
I do not have the room on the bench to use an AC motor for doing coring, nor under the bench either so DC is the way.
Thanks in advance,
Dave
Click to expand...

I use that exact controller to drive a 180 vdc motor on one of my Logan manual lathes. Works perfectly.

TW
 
I have no idea what the DART controller will cost you, they don't state a price in your link.
DC drive treadmills have an appropriately sized controller on-board. They're relatively cheap.
EBay is loaded with them. Might be worth a look. An MC-45 or MC-60 model would probably work for you.
They're in the $50 range, shipped.

HTHs, KJ
 
KJ Cues said:
I have no idea what the DART controller will cost you, they don't state a price in your link.
DC drive treadmills have an appropriately sized controller on-board. They're relatively cheap.
EBay is loaded with them. Might be worth a look. An MC-45 or MC-60 model would probably work for you.
They're in the $50 range, shipped.

HTHs, KJ
Click to expand...

I found a treadmill in free stuff on craigs list...I used the motor on a spinner for sanding and fnishing.. it uses an MC60 controller. Very powerful

Kim
 
KJ, I was going with that angle originally, but have read some nightmare stories in forums trying to get the boards to work with the motors if they didn't come from the same treadmill. Ebay price is $150 and up for the Dart controller and I dont have to get rid of the treadmill chassis :D
I have been researching using the controllers from treadmills and if they use a digital controller, like the mc-2100 series, you basically need the whole console for it to work, and when you shut off the unit, the motor has to be reset to 0 rpm to start it again. A bit of a pain on both counts.
Kim, how does yours work? How does the MC60 hook-up? Does it need to be reset to 0 rpm everytime?
Thanks
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
KJ, I was going with that angle originally, but have read some nightmare stories in forums trying to get the boards to work with the motors if they didn't come from the same treadmill. Ebay price is $150 and up for the Dart controller and I dont have to get rid of the treadmill chassis :D
I have been researching using the controllers from treadmills and if they use a digital controller, like the mc-2100 series, you basically need the whole console for it to work, and when you shut off the unit, the motor has to be reset to 0 rpm to start it again. A bit of a pain on both counts.
Kim, how does yours work? How does the MC60 hook-up? Does it need to be reset to 0 rpm everytime?
Thanks
Dave
Click to expand...

There are instructions on the internet on how to hook it up.... basically.. a 5K potentiometer for the speed control and a reversing switch and you are good to go. And yes, you must take the speed to 0 every time you turn it on or the motor won't start. I had it on my spinner so I didn't care. There is supposedly a fix for this but I can't find it anywhere.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how...vC4PZkQf__IGQDA&ved=0CDsQsAQ&biw=1366&bih=578


Note,,,, these controllers (MC60) sense the load and torque up the motor to maintain speed........... these things are very strong and will rip your arm off......

Kim
 
Let's first determine what motor you have.
If it's 2 wire (red & black), the MC60 is a good choice.
If it's 4 wire (red, blk & 2 blu) I don't believe that the MC60 will work for you by itself.
Thanx to Kim for his Google link as there are illustrations for a 4 wire mtr hookup.
Why I like the MC60 for a 2 wire mtr is that it's incredibly simple to hookup.
It also has the 3 spade lugs for connecting a potentiometer.
Another feature is that it has 4 LEDs to help with troubleshooting.

I've got a few projects in the works where I'm using Dayton DC gearmotors.
The MC series of controllers (MC30 - MC68) are a good match for these motors
and probably any other 90VDC mtr you might use.

HTHs, KJ

PS - Show me horror stories so I don't make the same mistakes. Lol
 
KJ Cues said:
Let's first determine what motor you have.
If it's 2 wire (red & black), the MC60 is a good choice.
If it's 4 wire (red, blk & 2 blu) I don't believe that the MC60 will work for you by itself.
Thanx to Kim for his Google link as there are illustrations for a 4 wire mtr hookup.
Why I like the MC60 for a 2 wire mtr is that it's incredibly simple to hookup.
It also has the 3 spade lugs for connecting a potentiometer.
Another feature is that it has 4 LEDs to help with troubleshooting.

I've got a few projects in the works where I'm using Dayton DC gearmotors.
The MC series of controllers (MC30 - MC68) are a good match for these motors
and probably any other 90VDC mtr you might use.

HTHs, KJ

PS - Show me horror stories so I don't make the same mistakes. Lol
Click to expand...

Sometimes a 4 wire motor has 2 wires for a thermal safety switch and it really is just a 2 wire motor. The motor wires are red and black. The other 2 wires are blue....

just my experience.......


Kim
 
I have one with the MC60. It's the controller that came with the motor on the treadmill, It was digital speed before. It had one for the gear motor that controlled elevation as well, so I separated them, and just added a analog pot to control speed. Pretty common controller from what I've read. Mine starts out at zero too, so yes that's one downfall, but as mentioned.. The motor is really strong, and It was all free minus the cost of the pot. Mine has the LEDs on the board as KJ mentioned.
 
The motor is a 4 wire, red, black, and 2 blue which I agree with Kim that they are for the temperature overload sensor. I should be receiving the motor any day now (got it on ebay)
I looked at the MC60 way to go, but the reset to 0 rpm everytime is too much of a deal breaker for me. Right now I use a momentary contact footpedal to turn the Penn State controller on/off and really like it. The MC60 wouldn't work with it. If it was my sanding lathe it wouldn't be an issue, but it's my deluxe where I do most of my drilling/boring and joint work. I have decided to go with the Dart controller as it can be turned on/off without resetting it, and it comes with heatsink, and enclosure and the manual. $160 and it's brandnew in the box.
Thanks everyone for your input and help. I will post back once I get everything wired and working.
Dave
 
BigDon said:
Dave did you see these
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=343252

I have had good luck with these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KB-ELECTRON...t=BI_Control_Systems_PLCs&hash=item485e1f9223

You can find tthey're heaper but I was just showing you an example. They have reverse, braking or coast and can use them with a potentiometer. Mount to aluminum heat sink or plate to keep cool.

Good luck
Click to expand...

Dave, you'll be hard pressed to buy a controller better than the 2 I have listed in the cue supplies forum that Don directed you to. Not sure what Don was referring to about heat sinks, but these do not need or benefit from any heat sink. They're not chip driven either which eliminates many issues. Plus these are quality American made controls that will probably out last you and I if they're used properly. The Leesons are reversing drives too, the Dart you're looking at is not. Always helpful to have reverse when you need it. Almost all permanent manget treadmill motors are bi-directional motors. I'm extremely leary of these drive companys that pop up and are gone 5 years later, they're all made in China, so forget about support or service if something happens. I'm not.familiar with Dart, they appear to have been around for a while (50 years) but how long will they support this particular drive? 2-5 years? We all know how fast electronic stuff becomes obsolete. I've seen so many VFD's cooked in friends and relatives shops. Leeson has been around forever and they're not going anywhere, they have been building this model for 25 years and continue to build it today... . These have real components in them that can be repaired if something like a power spike were to happen where a chip is just junk, throw it away and buy a new one. And for the money, you have an extra for your next machine project or a back up if you need it.

Hard to beat! The only reason I'm selling these is because I no longer have the machine I was using it on.... its a great deal!
 
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usage

I used the drive on an old Delta bandsaw with a treadmill motor so I could slow down the blade for metal cutting. Now I have a dedicated metal band saw so I sold the old Delta and put the A/C motor back on it.
 
JoneseyCues said:
Dave, you'll be hard pressed to buy a controller better than the 2 I have listed in the cue supplies forum that Don directed you to. Not sure what Don was referring to about heat sinks, but these do not need or benefit from any heat sink. They're not chip driven either which eliminates many issues. Plus these are quality American made controls that will probably out last you and I if they're used properly. The Leesons are reversing drives too, the Dart you're looking at is not. Always helpful to have reverse when you need it. Almost all permanent manget treadmill motors are bi-directional motors. I'm extremely leary of these drive companys that pop up and are gone 5 years later, they're all made in China, so forget about support or service if something happens. I'm not.familiar with Dart, they appear to have been around for a while (50 years) but how long will they support this particular drive? 2-5 years? We all know how fast electronic stuff becomes obsolete. I've seen so many VFD's cooked in friends and relatives shops. Leeson has been around forever and they're not going anywhere, they have been building this model for 25 years and continue to build it today... . These have real components in them that can be repaired if something like a power spike were to happen where a chip is just junk, throw it away and buy a new one. And for the money, you have an extra for your next machine project or a back up if you need it.

Hard to beat! The only reason I'm selling these is because I no longer have the machine I was using it on.... its a great deal!
Click to expand...

I don't know how, but I missed these in his post, I followed the ebay link and missed yours. I wish I would have seen them before ordering the Dart controller. I'll check my finances and see If I can afford to buy yours also.I'll give ya a pm shortly.
Dave
 
sounds good

I can't believe these aren't sold yet. All of the taig based DC driven lathes, guys running treadmill motors on whatever. I see people post their controller woes all the time yet here they sit!.. I don't get it!
 
Sorry guys, maybe I didn't make my post clear enough. I shared the link for the two posted in the forum. The other link was to KB boards that I use. That's what I was saying you could get cheaper than the link I posted and mount to aluminum or a heat sink. Sorry for any confusion. Dave I hope you got fixed up.
 
BigDon said:
Sorry guys, maybe I didn't make my post clear enough. I shared the link for the two posted in the forum. The other link was to KB boards that I use. That's what I was saying you could get cheaper than the link I posted and mount to aluminum or a heat sink. Sorry for any confusion. Dave I hope you got fixed up.
Click to expand...

Thanks Don, it was me speed reading I think, I just totally missed the first link in your post. All good. I noticed that Jonesey sold the controllers last night so everyone should be good.:D
The controller I ordered should do the job. I like the fact it's already build, enclosure and all. All I haveto do is hookup the wires correctly and set the trim pots properly, and hope the magic smoke doesn't escape...lol
Thanks,
Dave
 
The results

Well, an update. I received the motor and controller the end of last week. I hooked it up at 120volt AC and installed the motor. Went thru the adjustments, Seemed ok, but when I did a test coring, it popped the line fuse on the controller about 4" in to it. The motor is rated for 2.5 hp @ 130vdc, continuous duty is 1.5 hp @ 95vdc. The controller if hooked up to 120vac, 1 hp @ 90vdc, if hooked to 240 vac, it is rated 180vdc @ 2 hp. Too much motor for the controller. I misread the specs when I was buying it I guess. It is a strong motor, just need the right controller for it.
I have re-installed the Penn State motor with the new controller, it's a Dart 253G, and did the adjustments on it and WOW what a difference. It even sounds stronger, if thats possible. I was able to core a 12" VERY stabilized (it weighs in at 1lb) piece of maple burl and it trucked right thru it. With the old penn state controller, it would keep popping the reset every 2-3 inches,
I am going to keep the penn state motor for now and resell the treadmill motor, as I don't think I'll need it.
If anyone here can use it, I'm looking to get what I have in it, $46 shipped to the 50 states. If not, I'll ebay it.
Thanks for all the help and info guys.
DAve
 
Dave38 said:
Well, an update. I received the motor and controller the end of last week. I hooked it up at 120volt AC and installed the motor. Went thru the adjustments, Seemed ok, but when I did a test coring, it popped the line fuse on the controller about 4" in to it. The motor is rated for 2.5 hp @ 130vdc, continuous duty is 1.5 hp @ 95vdc. The controller if hooked up to 120vac, 1 hp @ 90vdc, if hooked to 240 vac, it is rated 180vdc @ 2 hp. Too much motor for the controller. I misread the specs when I was buying it I guess. It is a strong motor, just need the right controller for it.
I have re-installed the Penn State motor with the new controller, it's a Dart 253G, and did the adjustments on it and WOW what a difference. It even sounds stronger, if thats possible. I was able to core a 12" VERY stabilized (it weighs in at 1lb) piece of maple burl and it trucked right thru it. With the old penn state controller, it would keep popping the reset every 2-3 inches,
I am going to keep the penn state motor for now and resell the treadmill motor, as I don't think I'll need it.
If anyone here can use it, I'm looking to get what I have in it, $46 shipped to the 50 states. If not, I'll ebay it.
Thanks for all the help and info guys.
DAve
Click to expand...


I hooked up a 1/2 hp AC 1725 RPM motor for coring just because of that problem.................. no more problems

Kim
 
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