motors and controllers

D

danutz

Banned
which headstock mount taig style dc motors, and controllers are the best?
I'm on my second penn state set up, 1/2hp., after the first one somehow shorted out both the motor, and controller. If this one proves to be as short lived as the last one, i'd like to find a long lasting replacement.
Thanks.
 
danutz said:
which headstock mount taig style dc motors, and controllers are the best?
I'm on my second penn state set up, 1/2hp., after the first one somehow shorted out both the motor, and controller. If this one proves to be as short lived as the last one, i'd like to find a long lasting replacement.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

I really don't know what the "best" motor is as there are lots of excellent ones available. What I do know is, the Penn State controller sucks! That controller is not capable of putting out 1/2 hp. I have one of the following and also use the Baldor branded version on another lathe.

http://www.kb-controls.com/product.sc?productId=11&categoryId=3

You have to buy the appropriate size resistor and fuse to pair with the specs of the motor you use. You also have to either buy the reversing switch with brake accessory or wire in a DPDT toggle switch for reversing without the brake. I have been using the Baldor one for more than 6 years now. On another lathe, I went through 3 Penn State controllers in less than a year, before I ordered the above to replace it. Works great with the Penn State motor so far also.
 
Just go get you a better controller and the Penn State motor should be fine.
 
Thanks guys, i appreciate the info. Mine did'nt even have a reverse switch on it, so i'm not sure why it burnt up so quickly. I just need to keep it running long enough for me to be able to upgrade to a Hightower Deluxe:thumbup:
 
danutz said:
Thanks guys, i appreciate the info. Mine did'nt even have a reverse switch on it, so i'm not sure why it burnt up so quickly. I just need to keep it running long enough for me to be able to upgrade to a Hightower Deluxe:thumbup:
Click to expand...

A reverse switch has nothing to do with it burning up. The controller could care less what direction your motor is running. It is my belief, without reverse engineering the thing, that the small size of the heat sink coupled with the fact that the ouput transistors used in the controller are asked to perform to their maximum specified output is the reason they just don't last. A bigger heat sink, bigger output transistors or even a fan to circulate air through the enclosure might even solve the problem.
 
snipershot said:
Where did you get the motor and controller?

Joe
Click to expand...

It's from penn state industries. I got it second hand, but was new. Had probs from the get go with it, would shut off if i turned the dial more than half way up, motor would spark, and make popping sounds, etc. Something tells me they're both hit and miss as far as quality goes.
 
ChampionsRepair said:
A reverse switch has nothing to do with it burning up. The controller could care less what direction your motor is running. It is my belief, without reverse engineering the thing, that the small size of the heat sink coupled with the fact that the ouput transistors used in the controller are asked to perform to their maximum specified output is the reason they just don't last. A bigger heat sink, bigger output transistors or even a fan to circulate air through the enclosure might even solve the problem.
Click to expand...

I would disageree with a reverse switch having nothing to do with burning a motor or controller up. If you install a simple reverse switch and throw it from forward to reverse with the motor running wide open it can instantly burn a motor or controller up. I am speaking from first hand experience. The Penn State controllers have s few weaknesses. The switches take on dust is the main problem and the controller is too sensitive and trips the reset switch too easily.
 
danutz said:
which headstock mount taig style dc motors, and controllers are the best?
I'm on my second penn state set up, 1/2hp., after the first one somehow shorted out both the motor, and controller. If this one proves to be as short lived as the last one, i'd like to find a long lasting replacement.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Scott
With all the returns I had with the pen state motor. I too was fed up with shipping motors back and forth for warranty. Since the controllers presents most of the problem. I ordered all the components needed to build my own controller box. I already built a couple and will be testing them thoroughly. Although I have no interest in selling the controller for this motor. I am only doing it to salvage the 7 penn motors I still right after I am done validating its functionality and make sure it will last.
Regards
 
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controler

cueman said:
Just go get you a better controller and the Penn State motor should be fine.
Click to expand...

Chris,
I bought your lathe and I'm impressed with the quality and even more with the customer service. You replaced my controle with a homemade version that so far has worked without a flaw. It just kills me that you would sell such a quality machine with a controler that is known to be junk. Please do something about this. It will benefit you in the future.
Marc
 
ChampionsRepair said:
I really don't know what the "best" motor is as there are lots of excellent ones available. What I do know is, the Penn State controller sucks! That controller is not capable of putting out 1/2 hp. I have one of the following and also use the Baldor branded version on another lathe.

http://www.kb-controls.com/product.sc?productId=11&categoryId=3

You have to buy the appropriate size resistor and fuse to pair with the specs of the motor you use. You also have to either buy the reversing switch with brake accessory or wire in a DPDT toggle switch for reversing without the brake. I have been using the Baldor one for more than 6 years now. On another lathe, I went through 3 Penn State controllers in less than a year, before I ordered the above to replace it. Works great with the Penn State motor so far also.
Click to expand...

I also like the KB controllers - I have several and have had no problems.

:thumbup:

Gary
 
cueman said:
I would disageree with a reverse switch having nothing to do with burning a motor or controller up. If you install a simple reverse switch and throw it from forward to reverse with the motor running wide open it can instantly burn a motor or controller up. I am speaking from first hand experience. The Penn State controllers have s few weaknesses. The switches take on dust is the main problem and the controller is too sensitive and trips the reset switch too easily.
Click to expand...

I guess it is just semantics but the presence and use of a reversing switch, is not the issue. The improper use IS. And yes, throwing the switch "from forward to reverse with the motor running wide open" would be considered improper use when a simple DPDT toggle switch is used as a reversing switch. I would use a switch with a center off position for the reversing so you don't have to shut the controller off. Buy the KB controller I linked to. Get the accessory reversing switch with the electronic brake and you can instantly reverse with no damage to your motor or controller.
 
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stratshutr said:
Chris,
I bought your lathe and I'm impressed with the quality and even more with the customer service. You replaced my controle with a homemade version that so far has worked without a flaw. It just kills me that you would sell such a quality machine with a controler that is known to be junk. Please do something about this. It will benefit you in the future.
Marc
Click to expand...

Electronics are iffy. Older electronics are almost always more reliable than new stuff. You research the items, read the specs and hopefully get some outside advice but you never really know until its been in the field for a while. Chris told me he had some issues with the electronic controllers and was no longer using them. Other than the switch he had me replace when it filled up with wood dust, I haven't had a problem with mine. I may one day replace it with the ones he's making but for now its just fine. The only thing I don't like about the electronic controller is it takes a second or two to start up so you can't really bump it to have the spindle start up for only a second. I found it better to just spin the chuck by hand to get that last thread.... which is the safer way to do it anyway.
 
customcuelathe said:
Scott
With all the returns I had with the pen state motor. I too was fed up with shipping motors back and forth for warranty. Since the controllers presents most of the problem. I ordered all the components needed to build my own controller box. I already built a couple and will be testing them thoroughly. Although I have no interest in selling the controller for this motor. I am only doing it to salvage the 7 penn motors I still right after I am done validating its functionality and make sure it will last.
Regards
Click to expand...

Sounds great, would love to see it. So, is it true the penn state controller works fine with a lesser hp motor, just not with the 1/2hp or more? If so, maybe they could be fixed by swapping out an inferior resistor or something. Or, is it the board itself?
 
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