Mr. Clean Magic Eraser

Hal

Hal

Beer Player
Silver Member
I read on here the other day about how good a magic eraser works to clean shafts and ferrules. It is unbelievable. It really really works great.
 
Majic E

The Magic eraser works "freaky good". You just gotta watch it clean a dirty ferule once and you will believe.

Nick :cool:
 
The Good news on Magic it Eraser:

It works great!!!! :)

Now for the bad news:

The tables in our poolroom are so damn filthy that in a matter of a set or two, your cue's dirty again. :mad:

Tried to talk the owners into some Quick clean, but they were quick to say, no way Jose,not today,won't pay, OK. :(
 
recoveryjones said:
The Good news on Magic it Eraser:

...

Tried to talk the owners into some Quick clean, but they were quick to say, no way Jose,not today,won't pay, OK. :(
Click to expand...

Maybe you can talk them into cleaning the tables the old fashion way with a damp rag. I hate dirty tables, it really isn't a lot of effort to keep them relatively clean.
 
Use a damp/wet lint-free towel, swipe across the bed with gentle pressure. Don't get the cushions wet...Does a better job than Quick Clean, imho (and won't cost you a thing)

-Roger
 
Is there a certain method to use when cleaning with the Magic Eraser? I think I saw it written before but can't find it.

Thanks,
Dave
 
I am one of those people (probably the only one) who doesn't believe in the Magic Eraser. I tried it and found that it cleans no better than any number of alternatives and additionally puts scratches in my shaft and ferrules that I had to polish out.

I wouldn't reccomend this product for cleaning shafts and ferrules. There are any number of good shaft cleaners on the market that get rid of the dirt without harming the material. I personally reccomend just about any name brand shaft cleaner and Micro Mesh polishing paper (available at woodworker's supply).

I personally don't even bother cleaning my shaft - I keep the ferrule clean. I found that keeping my hands clean works best for a smooth shaft :-)

Jerry Franklin, the late founder of Southwest Cues, used to advise not to ever clean the shaft. He reccomended using the natural oils from your face to condition the shaft and make it practically impervious to the elements.

I do this periodically and never have a problem with my shafts.

John
 
onepocketchump said:
I am one of those people (probably the only one) who doesn't believe in the Magic Eraser. I tried it and found that it cleans no better than any number of alternatives and additionally puts scratches in my shaft and ferrules that I had to polish out.

I wouldn't reccomend this product for cleaning shafts and ferrules. There are any number of good shaft cleaners on the market that get rid of the dirt without harming the material. I personally reccomend just about any name brand shaft cleaner and Micro Mesh polishing paper (available at woodworker's supply).

I personally don't even bother cleaning my shaft - I keep the ferrule clean. I found that keeping my hands clean works best for a smooth shaft :-)

Jerry Franklin, the late founder of Southwest Cues, used to advise not to ever clean the shaft. He reccomended using the natural oils from your face to condition the shaft and make it practically impervious to the elements.

I do this periodically and never have a problem with my shafts.

John
Click to expand...

Some people take care of their shafts/cues and a well seasoned, nicely burnished shaft will play and feel like gold. Other people aren't so "clean" and the shafts and ferrules look like an ashtray. For those shafts, the eraser works great and will literally clean everything off. Yes.....anytime you use the eraser you will need to let the shaft dry and then burnish it back out, but then you have a clean, smooth shaft that isn't such an eyesore.

I've never seen the eraser scratch anything, but that's my experience.

Easy to keep the ferrule clean. Just use "newish" chalk.

Don't use the eraser on a Bushka. Looks weird to have a 40 yr. old cue with clean white shafts :p
 
skchengdds said:
Some people take care of their shafts/cues and a well seasoned, nicely burnished shaft will play and feel like gold. Other people aren't so "clean" and the shafts and ferrules look like an ashtray. For those shafts, the eraser works great and will literally clean everything off. Yes.....anytime you use the eraser you will need to let the shaft dry and then burnish it back out, but then you have a clean, smooth shaft that isn't such an eyesore.

I've never seen the eraser scratch anything, but that's my experience.

Easy to keep the ferrule clean. Just use "newish" chalk.

Don't use the eraser on a Bushka. Looks weird to have a 40 yr. old cue with clean white shafts :p
Click to expand...


What do you use to burnish the shaft after using the eraser?
 
onepocketchump said:
I am one of those people (probably the only one) who doesn't believe in the Magic Eraser. I tried it and found that it cleans no better than any number of alternatives and additionally puts scratches in my shaft and ferrules that I had to polish out.

I wouldn't reccomend this product for cleaning shafts and ferrules. There are any number of good shaft cleaners on the market that get rid of the dirt without harming the material. I personally reccomend just about any name brand shaft cleaner and Micro Mesh polishing paper (available at woodworker's supply).

I personally don't even bother cleaning my shaft - I keep the ferrule clean. I found that keeping my hands clean works best for a smooth shaft :-)

Jerry Franklin, the late founder of Southwest Cues, used to advise not to ever clean the shaft. He reccomended using the natural oils from your face to condition the shaft and make it practically impervious to the elements.

I do this periodically and never have a problem with my shafts.

John
Click to expand...

John,

Thanks for the info. How do you get the oils from your face?

Cheers,
Regas
 
Saint said:
What do you use to burnish the shaft after using the eraser?
Click to expand...

Here's my process:

Clean with Magic Eraser (wet small square, squeeze out all water between paper towels, and "erase," rub, each section of shaft/ferrule until it's clean)

Let dry (5-10 minutes)

Very light touch-up with 2000 grit or above sandpaper, I'm talking about one swipe or two per plane of the shaft.

Clean with 94% rubbing alcohol.

Burnish with untreated leather pad, or paper towel.

-Roger
 
Well, my experience is that the Magic Eraser is significantly more effective on old, blued shafts/ferrules without taking off any wood. The melamine fibers reach into the wood pores and lifts the chalk stains out mechanically.

Trust me, it's different from any other cleaning product out there, and does a much, much better job.

-Roger
 
Saint said:
What do you use to burnish the shaft after using the eraser?
Click to expand...

First you need to let the shaft dry. That leaves a clean, but slightly coarse surface. I then take a clean rag to remove the Magic Eraser residue.

I'm old school. I use the McDermott mylar sheets in sequential order to get back to a glass like surface. Before that though, I use a glass rod to burnish out any nicks in the shaft.

I don't like sandpaper. The sawdust I see on the sandpaper makes me nervous. And since I don't have a lathe, I can't feel comfortable that I'm burnishing concentrically.

I don't understand burnishing with leather. Doesn't work too well for me.

Lastly, I rework the tip, burnish the sides, and rescuff the top.

Then I drink a beer!! :D
 
sixpack said:
John,

Thanks for the info. How do you get the oils from your face?

Cheers,
Regas
Click to expand...

This is kinda gross but there is almost always oil right along side the nose. I use it on the sides of the tip as well.

In response to the pro Magic Eraser crowd: If you look closely you will see that the Magic Eraser actually makes grooves on the shaft and the ferrule. I don't know but I am going to assume that these grooves would be more prone to collect dirt and debris. To me the only way to smooth out the grooves would be to sand them out. Which kind of defeats the purpose.

But I am sure that cuemakers would be more than happy to to see anything that whittles shafts down faster.

John
 
onepocketchump said:
I am one of those people (probably the only one) who doesn't believe in the Magic Eraser. I tried it and found that it cleans no better than any number of alternatives and additionally puts scratches in my shaft and ferrules that I had to polish out.

I wouldn't reccomend this product for cleaning shafts and ferrules. There are any number of good shaft cleaners on the market that get rid of the dirt without harming the material. I personally reccomend just about any name brand shaft cleaner and Micro Mesh polishing paper (available at woodworker's supply).

I personally don't even bother cleaning my shaft - I keep the ferrule clean. I found that keeping my hands clean works best for a smooth shaft :-)

Jerry Franklin, the late founder of Southwest Cues, used to advise not to ever clean the shaft. He reccomended using the natural oils from your face to condition the shaft and make it practically impervious to the elements.

I do this periodically and never have a problem with my shafts.

John
Click to expand...

Does it have to be the oil from the face? How about from say...well
 
onepocketchump said:
If you look closely you will see that the Magic Eraser actually makes grooves on the shaft and the ferrule.
Click to expand...

Hi Jon,

Those grooves are actually the vacated space of ingrained chalk, once you remove it from the wood.

You can burnish very vigorously to seal those pores shut.

If you are to sand the shaft as a means to clean out all the deeply-imbedded chalk residue, it will take down significantly more wood than using the Magic Eraser. And btw, many of the cleaning products you mentioned are highly abrasive and "sands" the shaft as well.

-Roger
 
I use the Magic Eraser and I swear by it. It cleans without removing wood and it REALLY cleans! Use it damp. Dry with a towel. Burnish with leather rubbing hard and fast 100 or so strokes getting the wood warm/hot. Wet the edge of the tip and burnish till it shines. It'll shine great, look great and play great. I love an immaculate shaft, ferrule and tip...even on an older cue. I"ve tried every shaft cleaning method suggested on every pool web site I can find and none have worked as well for me as the Magic Eraser.

Once it's clean I use cigarete lighter fluid to remove chalk dust and dirt from daily use. Love it!
 
am i the only one that likes having the blue chalk stain on my shaft??? i have the color coded shaft burnishing paper, whatever its called. its a ripoff, like 10 bucks for the package, but hey it works. it keeps my cue silky smooth.

i just like the feel of the chalk stained shaft plus think the chalk adds character, i can't stand the feel of a brand new perfectly clean shaft...........am i the only one?

thanks

VAP
 
I have heard that some old time pros will take a brand new cue and burnish it with dirt before they ever take a shot with it. I don't know what kind of dirt they use but they want the shaft to get sealed and then will never clean it. They are also very careful not to get nicks in it.
 
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