My favorite way to burnish a tip

JLITALIEN

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
In my quest for knowledge in the pool realm I have read many books by many authors; a good majority of which have been at one time professional pool players. Just about each one of these books have included a portion on cue maintenance to include tip burnishing and shaft conditioning/burnishing. I have tried just about every method out there from a matchbook to piece of leather. There is a method that I am about to share with you that you will not read in any book, I know because I stumbled across it on my own. The product that I use is called Micro-mesh. Micro-mesh consist of a soft cloth, a sponge block and reusable wet/dry sandpaper with the following grits: 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000. I first received a Micro-mesh kit who works on aircraft; he used the kit to polish scratches out of the canopy. The kit is available for many purposes to include acrylic/plastic polishing and wood working. Retail prices for the Micro-mesh kits range from $70 to $40. But fear not you can find the kits on e-bay for as little as $11 and as I said the kit is reusable.

Here are a couple of pictures of the kit.

MicroMeshfront.jpg

Micro-meshback.jpg


The steps to use this product are very easy, simply start at 1800 and progressively work your way to 12000. I also rub some spit on the sides of the tip in-between grits. You can use it on the shaft, ferrule and the tip.

Here is a before shot of the tip and ferrule.

Tipbefore.jpg


This is a picture after using the first two pieces of sandpaper, 1800 and 2400.

Tipafter1800and2400.jpg


After 3200 and 3600

Tipafter3200and3600.jpg


4000 and 6000

Tipafter4000and6000.jpg


The finale after 8000 and 12000

Tipafter8000and12000.jpg


As you can see the tip is finely burnished and at this point if you have used the Micro-mesh on the shaft you will have a nice silky smooth shaft that will glide through you fingers with ease.
 
Last edited:
pulzcul said:
Thanks J I just slid over to ebay and bought one. Don


My pleasure! :D You will find that Micro-mesh has a lot of uses. Believe it or not I use it when I polish my work boots. They're crazy, shiny enough to shave in!

-Jimmy
 
Hi may I ask did you acheive this with the use of a lathe? Can Qsmooth acheive this instead of micro mesh?
 
Micro mesh is great stuff. I've been using it since '97 when a guy told me he got it from an airplane maintanance guy who used it to polish windshields. Careful of overuse with the lower grits as they will wear down your shaft as fast as any sandpaper. Also once you go up to 12000 the next time you don't have to start at 1800.

One bad thing about polising the shaft to 12000 is for those who have sweaty hands or play in humid halls. Even after washing hands, having a towel and using purell, the shaft is soooo smooth it's like glass and will begin to stick to your skin. (hence using it on airplane windows) For that reason, I personally have stoped using 12000 and stop with about 6000. But that's all about personal preference. Micromesh rocks!
 
Eviltuner said:
Hi may I ask did you acheive this with the use of a lathe? Can Qsmooth acheive this instead of micro mesh?

No lathe was used. I'm not sure about Qsmooth, I have never used that product.
 
twilight said:
One bad thing about polising the shaft to 12000 is for those who have sweaty hands or play in humid halls. Even after washing hands, having a towel and using purell, the shaft is soooo smooth it's like glass and will begin to stick to your skin. (hence using it on airplane windows) For that reason, I personally have stoped using 12000 and stop with about 6000. But that's all about personal preference. Micromesh rocks!

Fortunately I don't have a problem with humidity living in Phoenix, AZ and I have dry hands so I haven't experienced the sticking. But I won't always be in Arizona. I'll have to keep that in mind, thanks.

-Jimmy
 
Looks like you spent a little too much time on the tip sides while cleaning up the ferrule. Maybe the micro mesh pad wraps over the tip too much during the ferrule cleanup? Of course a new tip would solve that problem. I see the ferrule cleanup and the tip burnishing as 2 seperate steps. You did them in 1 step at the expense of the tip sides.
 
NaturalEnglish said:
Looks like you spent a little too much time on the tip sides while cleaning up the ferrule. Maybe the micro mesh pad wraps over the tip too much during the ferrule cleanup? Of course a new tip would solve that problem. I see the ferrule cleanup and the tip burnishing as 2 seperate steps. You did them in 1 step at the expense of the tip sides.

I do use Micro-mesh to clean the ferrule at the same time as burninshing the tip. You can achieve flat sides by using a wood block instead of the supplied foam block, but I don't mind the slightly rounded sides (The close pictures make it look worse than it is). I have a Porper burnisher also and it leaves the tip in the same condition (sides that are beyond parallel with the ferrule).
 
BTW...nice photography! The shaft seems to still have chalk in the grains. If you use a Mr Clean magic eraser before you use the micro mesh...would that get the chalk out of the wood grains?
 
NaturalEnglish said:
BTW...nice photography! The shaft seems to still have chalk in the grains. If you use a Mr Clean magic eraser before you use the micro mesh...would that get the chalk out of the wood grains?


Yes. Thats the combo that I use and it works great.

Add a little Slip Stic into the mix and your perfect.:cool:
 
Very nice. Gonna have to check this micro-mesh stuff out. Great pics too btw!
 
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