NUMBnS1L3NT
New member
Are you familiar with the "spot the wall" 3 rail kick system? If not I would recommend learning it first as it is the starting point of this 3 rail kick system i discovered. If I stumbled upon a system that already exists then please forgive me for claiming it to be mine but based on my research it does not exist.
So here is the system and I'll try my best to explain: all shots require rolling English and a consistent speed once the spot the wall location for that pocket is found. It works best if there is a wall or something that is 4-6' away from the table. I place a dot sticker on the walls surrounding my table for each corner pocket. All object ball locations i use as examples are frozen to the rails. Place cue ball at random position on table, find the spot the wall location for the target pocket. While aiming at the spot the wall point, imagine where a line from your cue to that point intersects the long rail. This intersection point on the rail can be very precise, dividing the diamond sights into 1/4s and even 1/8ths. This point is now considered to be "0" (zero). From here you will "rotate" your aim counting either up the long rail (away from you) or down the long rail (toward you) depending on the object ball location. By "rotate" your aim i mean to spin or pivot as if the cue ball is the fixed center. Like hands on a clock rotating from the fixed center.
If the object ball is located on the long rail then you would count down the long rail from "0" and if the object ball is located on the short rail then you would count up the long rail from "0".
How far you count up or down the rail from the "0" point is determined by the diamond number that the object ball is located at. 1 diamond for o.b. equals 1/2 diamond on the long rail you are aiming at. If o.b. is at the first diamond on the long rail then you would rotate aim from where your the spot the wall aim line meets the rail("0"), down toward you by 1/2 of a diamond on the long rail you are aiming at. If o.b. is on The second diamond long rail, you rotate aim down by 1 full diamond.
If o.b. is on the second short rail diamond the you rotate aim up the rail by 1 full diamond. Again a more precise aiming, counting and deviding of diamonds will result in a more precise hit on o.b.
For me this system has proven to be accurate down to 1/2 of a ball diameter. Once you become more familiar with the cue ball path you can apply this to balls that are not frozen to the rails.
I should also state that I have wood inlays that devide my diamond sights up into smaller 1/4 increments, making it much easier to use this system as it requires precision.
I hope I explained it well enough. Very difficult to explain. Feel free to message me if you have any questions or need clarification. Good luck. Let me know your results and how/if this works on your table.
Weston Fairris. 1/8/2023
So here is the system and I'll try my best to explain: all shots require rolling English and a consistent speed once the spot the wall location for that pocket is found. It works best if there is a wall or something that is 4-6' away from the table. I place a dot sticker on the walls surrounding my table for each corner pocket. All object ball locations i use as examples are frozen to the rails. Place cue ball at random position on table, find the spot the wall location for the target pocket. While aiming at the spot the wall point, imagine where a line from your cue to that point intersects the long rail. This intersection point on the rail can be very precise, dividing the diamond sights into 1/4s and even 1/8ths. This point is now considered to be "0" (zero). From here you will "rotate" your aim counting either up the long rail (away from you) or down the long rail (toward you) depending on the object ball location. By "rotate" your aim i mean to spin or pivot as if the cue ball is the fixed center. Like hands on a clock rotating from the fixed center.
If the object ball is located on the long rail then you would count down the long rail from "0" and if the object ball is located on the short rail then you would count up the long rail from "0".
How far you count up or down the rail from the "0" point is determined by the diamond number that the object ball is located at. 1 diamond for o.b. equals 1/2 diamond on the long rail you are aiming at. If o.b. is at the first diamond on the long rail then you would rotate aim from where your the spot the wall aim line meets the rail("0"), down toward you by 1/2 of a diamond on the long rail you are aiming at. If o.b. is on The second diamond long rail, you rotate aim down by 1 full diamond.
If o.b. is on the second short rail diamond the you rotate aim up the rail by 1 full diamond. Again a more precise aiming, counting and deviding of diamonds will result in a more precise hit on o.b.
For me this system has proven to be accurate down to 1/2 of a ball diameter. Once you become more familiar with the cue ball path you can apply this to balls that are not frozen to the rails.
I should also state that I have wood inlays that devide my diamond sights up into smaller 1/4 increments, making it much easier to use this system as it requires precision.
I hope I explained it well enough. Very difficult to explain. Feel free to message me if you have any questions or need clarification. Good luck. Let me know your results and how/if this works on your table.
Weston Fairris. 1/8/2023
