Need a little clarification...

Zims Rack

Zims Rack

Promoting the Cueing Arts
Silver Member
I'm being told a few different uses for these bits (see photo). Am I able to cut the female point grooves with the male cutter? What exactly is the purpose for the female cutter?

Thanks,
Zim
 

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this v groove bit is nice bc its wide. gives you nice wide points. thats what i use. you can get them to almost touch

if these one thing a hate its skinny points. i wont even look at a cue twice with skinny points.

fatter the better :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
I bought a set from Chris Hightower, but never put them to use yet!

Thanks,
Zim
 
My experience with that type of bit is that the corner does not get real sharp. When I am cutting point stock on the saw the corners will cut you if you are not careful. Cocobolo and Bubinga you can cut paper. Softer stuff not so much.
 
ive heard of ppl knocking off the excess of a 1.5 in square snd getting points out of it

im not good enough for that yet. maybe i am but i havent tried
 
the female is not that good the male works great i cut my points at 45 inchs a min the best fit is to machine point stock on a bridgeprot also chris are much smaller with these you can get points to touch if you know how you have to play with it to make that part work
 
""ive heard of ppl knocking off the excess of a 1.5 in square snd getting points out of it

im not good enough for that yet. maybe i am but i havent tried""

That is how I do them. I square up my 1.5's and cut the corners at a 45 degree angle and taper to one end on the bandsaw. I try to waste as little as possible. Especially when you are dealing with a real nice piece of wood.
 
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DZ makes a jig to cut point stock. I think with his jig you can get 4 points out of a 1.5. Check it out on his website.
 
DawgAndy said:
DZ makes a jig to cut point stock. I think with his jig you can get 4 points out of a 1.5. Check it out on his website.
Click to expand...

You can get more than that if the 1.5" square is true and you have a good saw with a thin kerf blade. His jig and measuring technique he shows works regardless of the length of stock also.

His jig is used to take one square and cut it at a 45 degree angle at a skew so you get 2 points from one square. Doing it this way, you can use a fairly small square (how small depends on if you are going to be gluing veneers ofcourse) to get 2 points. So with a trued up 1.5" square and a saw you can cut it into 4 squares, and then use Bob's jig to cut each square into 2 points, yielding 8 points. Since standard squares are 18" long, you can get two sleeves from the same square, yielding matching points and sleeves for a full spliced look for 2 cues from one square.

At $50, not hard for it to pay for itself maximizing yield.

http://dzcues.com/point_blanks.htm#skew%20cut


Kelly
 
Kelly_Guy said:
You can get more than that if the 1.5" square is true and you have a good saw with a thin kerf blade. His jig and measuring technique he shows works regardless of the length of stock also.

His jig is used to take one square and cut it at a 45 degree angle at a skew so you get 2 points from one square. Doing it this way, you can use a fairly small square (how small depends on if you are going to be gluing veneers ofcourse) to get 2 points. So with a trued up 1.5" square and a saw you can cut it into 4 squares, and then use Bob's jig to cut each square into 2 points, yielding 8 points. Since standard squares are 18" long, you can get two sleeves from the same square, yielding matching points and sleeves for a full spliced look for 2 cues from one square.

At $50, not hard for it to pay for itself maximizing yield.

http://dzcues.com/point_blanks.htm#skew%20cut


Kelly
Click to expand...
I've been looking for something like this and found it on Bob's site a few weeks ago. I'm going to order one next week! What is the ideal length to start with for point stock, 10"-12". I guess that would matter depending on the length of desired points.

Bob's got some great videos, photos, and tips on his site. I encourage anyone to visit his site and look around.
Zim
 
Zims Rack said:
I've been looking for something like this and found it on Bob's site a few weeks ago. I'm going to order one next week! What is the ideal length to start with for point stock, 10"-12". I guess that would matter depending on the length of desired points.
Click to expand...

I sent an email to order one this morning. Was funny this was posted today. I cut some Ebony into points today and did my best to cut them freehand on the bandsaw so I could get an extra set of points. Was thinking of making up something to help me with that and came up here and saw this thread. I've been using about 10 inch pieces for points and I keep my points long. I also cut them in at only about .040-.045 oversize and usually have 4 veneers, so I could probably get away with a little bit shorter.
 
Bob's Jig

I bought one of his jigs a couple weeks ago and it works like a champ. Amazing how small of a piece you can actually get points out of. Before I got this thing I had to make the piece over sized to compensate for my jiggling around on the bandsw.
 
brianna187 said:
the female is not that good the male works great i cut my points at 45 inchs a min the best fit is to machine point stock on a bridgeprot also chris are much smaller with these you can get points to touch if you know how you have to play with it to make that part work
Click to expand...
Mine are one inch. I do sell a 5/8" also, but the big set is one inch.
 
DawgAndy said:
DZ makes a jig to cut point stock. I think with his jig you can get 4 points out of a 1.5. Check it out on his website.
Click to expand...
If you use a bandsaw you can get 4 points and a forearm out of a 1.5 square. I show that in one of the Advanced volume DVD's.
 
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