Need help with game room, 7 or 8ft table...

btoneill

btoneill

Keeper of the Cheese
Silver Member
I'm trying to plan out my game room. It's not a perfect room by any means and with either a 7' or 8' table having an area where you'll need either a short cue or jack up your normal cue. So, what I'm looking for is opinions on if you'd rather play on a 8' table with a larger shortened area or a 7' with a smaller shortened area? I have attached a diagram of the room with the 7 and 8 ft tables shown with the play area shown for each. The play area is based off of a 58" cue with 6" for stroke added (64" around all sides). Would it make more sense to also take the stroke area down to 4" and have a smaller area of problem?

I can get a much better quality table for less money if I go with an 8' table (like a Brunswick Centurion) vs something like a 7' Golden West.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Brian


poolroom.jpg
 
A couple things to think about. What are you more comfortable playing on? Bar boxes or nine footers. If i played on bigger tables,i would go with the larger table.

If you look at your room,length is not really an issue but width is. By dropping to the smaller size table you really are not saving a lot. Length wise you would save a foot but width wise,only half.

just make sure you keep it right at recommended distance to the top and right wall to keep the corner open as possible.

Also the Brunswick centurion is only available in the oversize or pro 8 size and nine foot. Playfields on regular eights are 44x88 versus 46x92 on pro eights. Every inch counts!

You will have several people shortly telling you not to put a table in here or to go with the smaller table. I have to tell you, if i only put tables in totally obstacle free rooms, i would be out of business. The enjoyment of playing with an obstacle outweighs not having one at all in my opinion. This also may not be the last room you have the table in.
 
scruffy1 said:
Also the Brunswick centurion is only available in the oversize or pro 8 size and nine foot.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I realized after I posted that the Centurion is only in Pro 8... *sigh* There is one on craigslist for $500 locally...

We (wife and I) play leagues on 7' Diamonds, but we both prefer to play on 9' tables (we had a 9' Gandy Big G before we moved back to MN). Seeing the Centurion for $400 is what made me do the math harder on getting an 8' table in there (also found a nice looking 8' AMF Playmaster for $400).

And, I'd definitely rather have a table at home with a non-perfect room then no table at all (and I think having the area in that one corner on the head end of the table is the best place to have it, as you'll have a much lower number of shots from that area).

Thanks,
Brian
 
Since you both prefer to play on 9' tables, I'd recommend one of those over either a 7' or 8' table. Sure, you'd be even more compromised on that one side, but you'd have about 3 1/2 sides of the table with good clearance. If you compete on 9-footers or are interested in developing your game to a higher level of play on 9-footers, then a full-sized table at home for practice is the way to go, even with a wall in the way on one side.
 
Have you considered putting it in the room cock-eyed ? So that the short wall would be pointing at a side pocket ?

Food for thought...
 
make a scale layout, then cut a square that is 14' x 18' which is your 8' table plus cue. See if you can fit that square into the room with the table being somewhat diagonal at the wider end. Looks like it might work
 
I agree with Scruffy - bigger is better.

I would take the 'Tournament 8' and play with an 'obstruction cue' when I had to.

I bought a 10' snooker table when my room can take a 12 footer and wish I hadn't.

Size matters:grin:
 
Trouble Shooter cue

They make a line of cues that are really amazing. "Trouble Shooter" they are weighted so that a 48" cue has the same weight distribution and feel as a full size cue. Throw a Moori tip on it and you are in business.

Dont' just get a "short" cue that weighs all of 15 oz
 
Honestly, if you prefer playing on a 9' I would definitely go with one.
You are going to have an obstruction on one side no matter what so why not go with the 9' and use a shorter shorty?

You have no problems that I can see with the length.

Also, are you measuring 64" from the inner rail inside the playing surface or from the outside dimensions of the table?

I definitely would not let your room dimensions dictate you getting a 7' instead of a much preferred pro 8 that you can get a great deal on.

I have a similar situation and I went with a 9' GC, an obstruction is there regardless, get the table you really want or you will kick yourself down the road.
 
Snake Plisken said:
Also, are you measuring 64" from the inner rail inside the playing surface or from the outside dimensions of the table?
Click to expand...

Yeah, the picture I posted is 64" around from the inner rail, which I guess is being conservative on the size. So many different sizes I've found for what to do. For instance Brunswicks website has a chart that just does 58" from the inner rail.

What do most people prefer for width from the inner rail? I can make do with just about anything, but I also want my table to be fun for friends who come over to play.

Brian
 
When space it at a premium,we always try for a minimum of 60 inches from the play-field. Remember,it is a small percentage of shots that are frozen on the rail AND being shot straight down or across the table AT the same time.
 
scruffy1 said:
When space it at a premium,we always try for a minimum of 60 inches from the play-field. Remember,it is a small percentage of shots that are frozen on the rail AND being shot straight down or across the table AT the same time.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll update my drawing with 60" and see how that looks with 7/8/8.5 tables on it.

Brian
 
OK, here is an update diagram with 60" around from the inside edge of the rails, with the grid on it as well. Each square is 1".

poolroom2.jpg
 
Bummer. I'd go as big as possible though. You could use a 4x8 piece of plywood as template to see if you could fudge a bit on placement. I always like to use a template of some sort. Sometimes a new idea comes to mind. In any case you'll have that darn short corner to contend with.
 
pjwoolw said:
Bummer. I'd go as big as possible though. You could use a 4x8 piece of plywood as template to see if you could fudge a bit on placement. I always like to use a template of some sort. Sometimes a new idea comes to mind. In any case you'll have that darn short corner to contend with.
Click to expand...

I'm already planning on making one out of cardboard... Just finally got all the kids toys out of the room and into her toy room today so MY toy room is free to put my toys in :)
 
btoneill said:
I'm already planning on making one out of cardboard... Just finally got all the kids toys out of the room and into her toy room today so MY toy room is free to put my toys in :)
Click to expand...


You can always just measure and tape the dimensions on the floor.
RKC recently set-up my table and I have exactly 5' from the outer dimensions of the table to the wall. I can hit a frozen ball straight with a
58" cue without having to shorten my stroke.
 
It is rare to find 8 ft tables. Some claim that it is the best of both worlds You only have to move up or down a few inches to adjust to a 9 or 7 ft table. My father had a commercial 8 ft table and now I have a 9 ft. I didn't see any advantage to it. It is what it is, a 8 ft table is a middle of the road table that doesn't really help you master either. Playing on a 9 ft is a different game than on a 7 ft. That is why a lot of pro players stay away from the BB and BB hustlers wont go near a 9 ft.

From a practical and if possible get a 7 ft Diamond. Many PH's are installing them and Valley Forge uses them. If you can master that table you can be a world beater on any BB. For the most part it will help with breakouts and playing tight position. If you can shoot a straight line than a 9 ft table is just a extension of any shot on a 7 ft. In some ways a 9 ft is easier because the balls get spread out more and there are less clusters. You just have to be a straight shot and the tight Diamond will help.

Another thing to think about is finding other players that have a 9 ft table many of them want to get practice on a 7 ft. I have a few buddies that have 7 ft tables and we alternate playing sessions as they want to play on the 9 ft.

There is hardly any resale on a 8 ft as most either want a 7 or a 9. Since the 9 won't fit get the 7 ft.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top