Need helpful pool table recushioning / facing advice

Rappincapn

Rappincapn

Registered
Hi everyone, I fairly new to azbilliards, took me about an hour on my cell phone to figure out what button to hit to post a blog, so I hope I am posting this. I have read many posts on this site with a lot of expert advice on tables and other equipment, etc.
In fact, based on what I have read and other internet reviews, I upgraded my table from a pre 2k 8' Brunswick to an 8 1/2' Pro Peter Vitale Barritz.
Vitale is a great, solid table, beautiful hand carved wood on the legs and foot and head aprons and believe according to other reviews it is considered to be a top tier table.
The table is level, cloth is stretched very tight, and even had the coushion points slightly lowered by putting a strip of cloth on the outside part of the rails so they are now sitting at a height of 1 3/16" to help increase the table speed. The table plays on system from te oposite corners thru the 3rd diamond, which I would hate to loose.
I'm trying to pick up more speed to mimic that of the GC's at Steinway Billiards.
While my game is decent, and position and work the balls well on my table, which is fairly fast, it is still slower than the tables at Steinway, throwing my position off when playing a few tourneys at Steinway
I am not the best player by far, and eventually adjust, I love the speed of those tables.
I know the GC's are the best period, kind of ugly, but best tables I've ever played on, speed, ball reaction, clean pocket drop etc., besides don't have the room for one.
Anyway, sorry to bore you with all of that.
I know they currently have Simonis 860HR on their tables, later in the year for certain tournaments the switch to Andy Pro 920.
Love both of the cloths.
Anyway,NEED SOME HELPFULL ADVICE.
The table currently has an expesive wool cloth, (unknown brand , but no doubt as it has never pilled) it is not a worsted wool like Simonis, which will definitly help the speed, I am thinking of re-cushioning, and based on the posts I have read, I am sold on the German Artemis, but I don't know if Vitale uses a K66.
According to the posts, K66 are most common and only the GC's and Diamond use the K55's, just want to be sure before I order, which I see Meullers corrently has a great price of $185, with most sites selling them for $249.
My cushions are not dead, but the table is approx. 10-12 tears old and Vitale is out of business, so I can't contact them. I know you can measure them, but hard to tell with the cloth on and I would not prefer the down time to dismantle until I'm ready to re-cushion and recloth.
Does anybody have or know if the Vitale's used K66 or K55's?
Next question, I would like to tighten upor narrow the pockects while re-coushioning, I was thinking orlf using the 3/16" facings instead of the 1/8", which I believe is most common.
Right now I olny assume my favings are 1/8", as I have never reclothed this table. I believe I have the proper amount of pocket rattle, based on the speed of the ball entering the pocket on a none dead center entry.QUESTION, if I use the 3/16" facings, will the pockets be dead or have no rattle vs the 1/8". Does anybody know what the proper durameter rating should be for the facings?
Also, I have been thinking of extending the shelf of the corner pockets by 1/2", being as the current ball exposed in the pocket is approx 60%, I would like to bring it to about 40%, which I beleive is acceptible pro standards. I plan on using a hard Neopreme affixed to the pocket slate edges, which I believe should do the trick. Any thoughts on that.
Lastly, I am thinking of reclothing with the Andy Pro 920 worsted wool.
I can get a great deal, saving over $100 vs buying Simonis.
Anybody have any experience with the Andy Pro 920?
Likes? Dislikes?

Any advice or opinions out there would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you all in advance for your advice on these matters.
 
Rappincapn said:
Hi everyone, I fairly new to azbilliards, took me about an hour on my cell phone to figure out what button to hit to post a blog, so I hope I am posting this. I have read many posts on this site with a lot of expert advice on tables and other equipment, etc.
In fact, based on what I have read and other internet reviews, I upgraded my table from a pre 2k 8' Brunswick to an 8 1/2' Pro Peter Vitale Barritz.
Vitale is a great, solid table, beautiful hand carved wood on the legs and foot and head aprons and believe according to other reviews it is considered to be a top tier table.
The table is level, cloth is stretched very tight, and even had the coushion points slightly lowered by putting a strip of cloth on the outside part of the rails so they are now sitting at a height of 1 3/16" to help increase the table speed. The table plays on system from te oposite corners thru the 3rd diamond, which I would hate to loose.
I'm trying to pick up more speed to mimic that of the GC's at Steinway Billiards.
While my game is decent, and position and work the balls well on my table, which is fairly fast, it is still slower than the tables at Steinway, throwing my position off when playing a few tourneys at Steinway
I am not the best player by far, and eventually adjust, I love the speed of those tables.
I know the GC's are the best period, kind of ugly, but best tables I've ever played on, speed, ball reaction, clean pocket drop etc., besides don't have the room for one.
Anyway, sorry to bore you with all of that.
I know they currently have Simonis 860HR on their tables, later in the year for certain tournaments the switch to Andy Pro 920.
Love both of the cloths.
Anyway,NEED SOME HELPFULL ADVICE.
The table currently has an expesive wool cloth, (unknown brand , but no doubt as it has never pilled) it is not a worsted wool like Simonis, which will definitly help the speed, I am thinking of re-cushioning, and based on the posts I have read, I am sold on the German Artemis, but I don't know if Vitale uses a K66.
According to the posts, K66 are most common and only the GC's and Diamond use the K55's, just want to be sure before I order, which I see Meullers corrently has a great price of $185, with most sites selling them for $249.
My cushions are not dead, but the table is approx. 10-12 tears old and Vitale is out of business, so I can't contact them. I know you can measure them, but hard to tell with the cloth on and I would not prefer the down time to dismantle until I'm ready to re-cushion and recloth.
Does anybody have or know if the Vitale's used K66 or K55's?
Next question, I would like to tighten upor narrow the pockects while re-coushioning, I was thinking orlf using the 3/16" facings instead of the 1/8", which I believe is most common.
Right now I olny assume my favings are 1/8", as I have never reclothed this table. I believe I have the proper amount of pocket rattle, based on the speed of the ball entering the pocket on a none dead center entry.QUESTION, if I use the 3/16" facings, will the pockets be dead or have no rattle vs the 1/8". Does anybody know what the proper durameter rating should be for the facings?
Also, I have been thinking of extending the shelf of the corner pockets by 1/2", being as the current ball exposed in the pocket is approx 60%, I would like to bring it to about 40%, which I beleive is acceptible pro standards. I plan on using a hard Neopreme affixed to the pocket slate edges, which I believe should do the trick. Any thoughts on that.
Lastly, I am thinking of reclothing with the Andy Pro 920 worsted wool.
I can get a great deal, saving over $100 vs buying Simonis.
Anybody have any experience with the Andy Pro 920?
Likes? Dislikes?

Any advice or opinions out there would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you all in advance for your advice on these matters.
Click to expand...

--------------------------------
 
Table

You called the GC ugly....... You won't get any help from me....




Best of luck'




Rob.M
 
Rappincapn said:
Hi everyone, I fairly new to azbilliards, took me about an hour on my cell phone to figure out what button to hit to post a blog, so I hope I am posting this. I have read many posts on this site with a lot of expert advice on tables and other equipment, etc.
In fact, based on what I have read and other internet reviews, I upgraded my table from a pre 2k 8' Brunswick to an 8 1/2' Pro Peter Vitale Barritz.
Vitale is a great, solid table, beautiful hand carved wood on the legs and foot and head aprons and believe according to other reviews it is considered to be a top tier table.
The table is level, cloth is stretched very tight, and even had the coushion points slightly lowered by putting a strip of cloth on the outside part of the rails so they are now sitting at a height of 1 3/16" to help increase the table speed. The table plays on system from te oposite corners thru the 3rd diamond, which I would hate to loose.
I'm trying to pick up more speed to mimic that of the GC's at Steinway Billiards.
While my game is decent, and position and work the balls well on my table, which is fairly fast, it is still slower than the tables at Steinway, throwing my position off when playing a few tourneys at Steinway
I am not the best player by far, and eventually adjust, I love the speed of those tables.
I know the GC's are the best period, kind of ugly, but best tables I've ever played on, speed, ball reaction, clean pocket drop etc., besides don't have the room for one.
Anyway, sorry to bore you with all of that.
I know they currently have Simonis 860HR on their tables, later in the year for certain tournaments the switch to Andy Pro 920.
Love both of the cloths.
Anyway,NEED SOME HELPFULL ADVICE.
The table currently has an expesive wool cloth, (unknown brand , but no doubt as it has never pilled) it is not a worsted wool like Simonis, which will definitly help the speed, I am thinking of re-cushioning, and based on the posts I have read, I am sold on the German Artemis, but I don't know if Vitale uses a K66.
According to the posts, K66 are most common and only the GC's and Diamond use the K55's, just want to be sure before I order, which I see Meullers corrently has a great price of $185, with most sites selling them for $249.
My cushions are not dead, but the table is approx. 10-12 tears old and Vitale is out of business, so I can't contact them. I know you can measure them, but hard to tell with the cloth on and I would not prefer the down time to dismantle until I'm ready to re-cushion and recloth.
Does anybody have or know if the Vitale's used K66 or K55's?
Next question, I would like to tighten upor narrow the pockects while re-coushioning, I was thinking orlf using the 3/16" facings instead of the 1/8", which I believe is most common.
Right now I olny assume my favings are 1/8", as I have never reclothed this table. I believe I have the proper amount of pocket rattle, based on the speed of the ball entering the pocket on a none dead center entry.QUESTION, if I use the 3/16" facings, will the pockets be dead or have no rattle vs the 1/8". Does anybody know what the proper durameter rating should be for the facings?
Also, I have been thinking of extending the shelf of the corner pockets by 1/2", being as the current ball exposed in the pocket is approx 60%, I would like to bring it to about 40%, which I beleive is acceptible pro standards. I plan on using a hard Neopreme affixed to the pocket slate edges, which I believe should do the trick. Any thoughts on that.
Lastly, I am thinking of reclothing with the Andy Pro 920 worsted wool.
I can get a great deal, saving over $100 vs buying Simonis.
Anybody have any experience with the Andy Pro 920?
Likes? Dislikes?

Any advice or opinions out there would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you all in advance for your advice on these matters.
Click to expand...
My first question is are you planning on doing the work yourself?
 
Yes, I am pretty handy, I have taken apart, moved , put togther, leveled and re-clothed tables and cushions before.
 
Rappincapn said:
Yes, I am pretty handy, I have taken apart, moved , put togther, leveled and re-clothed tables and cushions before.
Click to expand...

Ok, then right there is your problem with this forum. With all the questions you've already asked, your total lack of knowledge in what that kind of job entails, in which its pretty clear by the questions you've asked. Just because you've worked on a few of your friends pool tables in the past, by no means does that mean you know what you're doing. And what you're asking here on AZ is not only for help with your project....but also for a free education from those who get paid for doing what you're asking, a free education so to speak. You see, you need someone to educate you about the cloth, cushions, facing and everything else in order for you to perform this task.....and you're asking for that to be a free education. Asking for help is OK, but asking for help to do an entire project just to avoid having to hire someone to do the job is kind of where I draw the line in the sand, I'm sorry to have to explain it this way....but come on, do you ask a dentist for a detailed explanation of how to work on you own teeth....so you can fix any cavities you might have on you own? And before you say anything. ...that's just a figure of speech.
 
Rappincapn said:
Hi everyone, I fairly new to azbilliards, took me about an hour on my cell phone to figure out what button to hit to post a blog, so I hope I am posting this. I have read many posts on this site with a lot of expert advice on tables and other equipment, etc.
In fact, based on what I have read and other internet reviews, I upgraded my table from a pre 2k 8' Brunswick to an 8 1/2' Pro Peter Vitale Barritz.
Vitale is a great, solid table, beautiful hand carved wood on the legs and foot and head aprons and believe according to other reviews it is considered to be a top tier table.
The table is level, cloth is stretched very tight, and even had the coushion points slightly lowered by putting a strip of cloth on the outside part of the rails so they are now sitting at a height of 1 3/16" to help increase the table speed. The table plays on system from te oposite corners thru the 3rd diamond, which I would hate to loose.
I'm trying to pick up more speed to mimic that of the GC's at Steinway Billiards.
While my game is decent, and position and work the balls well on my table, which is fairly fast, it is still slower than the tables at Steinway, throwing my position off when playing a few tourneys at Steinway
I am not the best player by far, and eventually adjust, I love the speed of those tables.
I know the GC's are the best period, kind of ugly, but best tables I've ever played on, speed, ball reaction, clean pocket drop etc., besides don't have the room for one.
Anyway, sorry to bore you with all of that.
I know they currently have Simonis 860HR on their tables, later in the year for certain tournaments the switch to Andy Pro 920.
Love both of the cloths.
Anyway,NEED SOME HELPFULL ADVICE.
The table currently has an expesive wool cloth, (unknown brand , but no doubt as it has never pilled) it is not a worsted wool like Simonis, which will definitly help the speed, I am thinking of re-cushioning, and based on the posts I have read, I am sold on the German Artemis, but I don't know if Vitale uses a K66.
According to the posts, K66 are most common and only the GC's and Diamond use the K55's, just want to be sure before I order, which I see Meullers corrently has a great price of $185, with most sites selling them for $249.
My cushions are not dead, but the table is approx. 10-12 tears old and Vitale is out of business, so I can't contact them. I know you can measure them, but hard to tell with the cloth on and I would not prefer the down time to dismantle until I'm ready to re-cushion and recloth.
Does anybody have or know if the Vitale's used K66 or K55's?
Next question, I would like to tighten upor narrow the pockects while re-coushioning, I was thinking orlf using the 3/16" facings instead of the 1/8", which I believe is most common.
Right now I olny assume my favings are 1/8", as I have never reclothed this table. I believe I have the proper amount of pocket rattle, based on the speed of the ball entering the pocket on a none dead center entry.QUESTION, if I use the 3/16" facings, will the pockets be dead or have no rattle vs the 1/8". Does anybody know what the proper durameter rating should be for the facings?
Also, I have been thinking of extending the shelf of the corner pockets by 1/2", being as the current ball exposed in the pocket is approx 60%, I would like to bring it to about 40%, which I beleive is acceptible pro standards. I plan on using a hard Neopreme affixed to the pocket slate edges, which I believe should do the trick. Any thoughts on that.
Lastly, I am thinking of reclothing with the Andy Pro 920 worsted wool.
I can get a great deal, saving over $100 vs buying Simonis.
Anybody have any experience with the Andy Pro 920?
Likes? Dislikes?

Any advice or opinions out there would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you all in advance for your advice on these matters.
Click to expand...

Further more, it's impossible to have a nose height of 1 3/16" and have a table play right as you claim yours does, so I really question your knowledge of playing pool with your desire to create a faster playing pool table.
 
Last edited:
realkingcobra said:
Further more, it's impossible to have a nose height of 1 3/16" and have a table play right as you claim yours does, so I really question your knowledge of playing pool with your desire to create a faster playing pool table.
Click to expand...

'-

It could be one of those Cosco tables with miniature sized pool balls and a cushion profile from Mars.... Or it's a bumper pool table....)





Rob.M
 
I do appologize, I guess maybe I'm asking for too much.
Also you are correct, my rail height is NOT 3/16"
It is about 6.5/16", I do appologize, because after I sent it, I realized it. But forgot to edit it.
As I said, I am new to this forum and maybe do not understand all the rules of what and what you cannot ask, again, my sincere appologies.
As for the guy who felt insulted about the GC's I also appoligize, I did compliment thatthey are the best playing tables out there, I guess what I meant to say, was besides not having enough room, I do prefer a furniture style table.
I do not proport to be a table mechanic by no means nor am I trying to steal any of your business, nor go into business, but I am pretty handy, and based on any helpfull advise, decide if this is a job that is over my head and best to get a pro.
God Bless you all, wheteher you wish to provide any helpfull advice.
Thany you all again.
 
Rappincapn said:
I do appologize, I guess maybe I'm asking for too much.
Also you are correct, my rail height is NOT 3/16"
It is about 6.5/16", I do appologize, because after I sent it, I realized it. But forgot to edit it.
As I said, I am new to this forum and maybe do not understand all the rules of what and what you cannot ask, again, my sincere appologies.
As for the guy who felt insulted about the GC's I also appoligize, I did compliment thatthey are the best playing tables out there, I guess what I meant to say, was besides not having enough room, I do prefer a furniture style table.
I do not proport to be a table mechanic by no means nor am I trying to steal any of your business, nor go into business, but I am pretty handy, and based on any helpfull advise, decide if this is a job that is over my head and best to get a pro.
God Bless you all, wheteher you wish to provide any helpfull advice.
Thany you all again.
Click to expand...
Look, I'm not trying to jump on you, but I took your request for information as if I were going to have to teach you all you need to know about becoming a pool table mechanic, and that's just not something I'm willing to do, but if you do a search with my screen name looking for threads I've started you'll gain a tremendous amount of knowledge without even having to ask for it, same as with some of the other mechanics that post on here.....just do a little research is all I'm telling you, I promise it'll help you out buy years in advance. Then do yourself a big favor and buy the Simonis installation DVDs, they've helped out mechanics world wide as Jay and I didn't waste out time making them for nothing, they are the best DVDS you'll ever get your hands on.
 
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