Need Tips on Using a Tenon Threader

[Dave38]

Well, for three years of doing what I described above, I haven't had a tenon or ferrule come back for repair. I understand the concern about a .280 tenon, but if done right, with a shoulder, then it should last. If a problem occurs, then it will be, IMO, more abuse than use.
To me, the thicker the tenon, then the less effect the ferrule has on the hit compared to the tenon, unless it's a capped ferrule. Sometimes, I believe,we over engineer a concern, more than it needs to be. There is a reason the tenon threaders availible today are requiring a .280 tenon, otherwise, comomn sense would dictate they would be built using a larger dia..Just my thoughts.
Dave

 

[Sheldon]

I have never had one of my tenons fail, and I've used many methods of installing ferrules.
I very rarely see any failed tenons in for repair. What I see is very sloppy installations of ferrules failing.

The compression die does a stellar job, and removes very little material from the tenon, leaving it stronger than it would be with machined threads.
Guess what though, both methods are PLENTY STRONG for the job. If the ferrule is nice and snug, and good glue is used, threads aren't even necessary. A cue can and will easily last a lifetime with any of these methods.

 

[macguy]

Well, for three years of doing what I described above, I haven't had a tenon or ferrule come back for repair. I understand the concern about a .280 tenon, but if done right, with a shoulder, then it should last. If a problem occurs, then it will be, IMO, more abuse than use.
To me, the thicker the tenon, then the less effect the ferrule has on the hit compared to the tenon, unless it's a capped ferrule. Sometimes, I believe,we over engineer a concern, more than it needs to be. There is a reason the tenon threaders availible today are requiring a .280 tenon, otherwise, comomn sense would dictate they would be built using a larger dia..Just my thoughts.
Dave

Actually it can be a moot point anyway. In my case I only thread the top 1/4 inch of the ferrule. On my own shafts I make the tenon 3/8 and again, I only thread the top 1/4 inch with no cap. If the ferrule is glued well to the tenon it would not matter either way. the ferrule and tenon are now pretty much one.

 

[WilleeCue]

Actually it can be a moot point anyway. In my case I only thread the top 1/4 inch of the ferrule. On my own shafts I make the tenon 3/8 and again, I only thread the top 1/4 inch with no cap. If the ferrule is glued well to the tenon it would not matter either way. the ferrule and tenon are now pretty much one.

I have seen some ferrules done that way.
Just the tip of the tenon threaded.
Kinda like a Dale Perry quick release joint pin.
I dont think it saves any time but you are right on about not really mattering as to the hit.
Once the epoxy has set it is all a solid mass.

 

[macguy]

I have seen some ferrules done that way.
Just the tip of the tenon threaded.
Kinda like a Dale Perry quick release joint pin.
I dont think it saves any time but you are right on about not really mattering as to the hit.
Once the epoxy has set it is all a solid mass.

I think it is also important for the cuemaker to not use a 5 minute epoxy. I know you have never had a failure, but if you use a slower epoxy you can do what is called a "wet out". You give the epoxy a chance to soak into the wood and then before you install you apply a second application of the epoxy. This needs some time. Gluing wood is a little different then gluing things like plastic.

 

[bob_bushka]

tenon size

For playability I really like a 3/8 ferule, non threaded and non capped, about 3/4 of an inch in length with a cut down triangle. Holy Smokes Batman. Zowie!