Need wiring info for lathe

poolcuemaster

poolcuemaster

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
My old 54in. Atlas metal lathe has had a bad motor for a year now, it runs in both directions if hand started. It uses the factory barrel or drum switch and I have a new 115V swimming pool pump with plenty of horsepower and 1/2in shaft that will fit in the bracket great. My question is how many wires have to be connected to the drum switch to make it reverse and can this happen with the pool pump motor that only has 2 wires and a ground maybe, I can't remember if the factory cord was 2 or 3 prong. I know it should have a ground when used around a pool so it might have as it is a good brand (Hayward), anyway I need any info and wiring diagrams that will help me connect if it is possible. The old motor has a conduit from drum switch to motor and without removing it I can't see how many wires are connected. Thanks in advance--Leonard Holmes
 
Does the atlas Motor have external capacitor? Could just be bad capacitor, low uf will cause that if so they are only a couple bucks.
 
I have an Atlas th54 with a reversible motor with drum switch, that I did myself. I can look at it when I get home, if I remember. I do recall there being 4 or 5 wires in all. I'm going out tonight, so I may not get to it untill tomorrow. A two wire motor cannot be wired to run in reverse, as far as I know. A ground wire isn't really important, it only grounds the case.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
I have an Atlas th54 with a reversible motor with drum switch, that I did myself. I can look at it when I get home, if I remember. I do recall there being 4 or 5 wires in all. I'm going out tonight, so I may not get to it untill tomorrow. A two wire motor cannot be wired to run in reverse, as far as I know. A ground wire isn't really important, it only grounds the case.
Dave
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Guys, I CAN NOT STRESS HOW IMPORTANT GROUNDS ARE. All your equipment should be grounded, this could be life or death... You need a ground and If around water GFI. To the op if you send me good pics I will try to help you out sir. email is jh.electrical@hotmail.com or call me at 214 325 7331. Dave38 is right a single phase 120v 2 wire motor is not going to run in reverse..
 
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Jaydog468, Your new avatar is so fitting to your post! Much better than that old Can-barly-go you used to have.

Larry
 
To JT450r there is no humps on the old motor so I don't think it had a start capacitor and after thinking about what Jaydog and Dave said about no reverse to a two wire motor I was thinking the pool pump wont work. So since the motor will run after hand spinning the chuck slightly do I have a weak motor or a bad ground between the drum switch and motor, I have filed all of the drum switch contacts to clean smooth metal. Will a rewinding shop cost more to repair than a new motor would cost, if so how many wires will a 1/2 HP 115 Volt motor need to hook up and work with the drum switch.--Leonard
 
poolcuemaster said:
To JT450r there is no humps on the old motor so I don't think it had a start capacitor and after thinking about what Jaydog and Dave said about no reverse to a two wire motor I was thinking the pool pump wont work. So since the motor will run after hand spinning the chuck slightly do I have a weak motor or a bad ground between the drum switch and motor, I have filed all of the drum switch contacts to clean smooth metal. Will a rewinding shop cost more to repair than a new motor would cost, if so how many wires will a 1/2 HP 115 Volt motor need to hook up and work with the drum switch.--Leonard
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I would say you have a weak motor.. Do you see any way to change the brushes on the motor???
 
Just got home, and read the responses, and want to clarify my earlier statement. Jaydog468 is correct about the saftey issues of not grounding things. What I meant was that the ground wire, in reference to running in reverse, it wasn't important, as grounding doesn't play a part in that operation. It is important from a safety standpoint, if the motor isn't double insulated. Sorry for the confusion.
On the old motor, there maybe a centrifugal switch that changes from the 'start' windings to the 'run' windings once it starts. You may be able to dissassmble it and check the continuity of it in the open position, and then the closed position with a ohm meter. The run windings are not strong enough to overcome the friction of starting, so they usually have start windings to accomplish this on the older motors.
I picked up my motor on ebay, used for about $50 a couple of years ago, brandnew is about $150 last time I looked, depending on the HP and RPMs you want. I'll look tomorrow to see how many wires there are.
Dave
 
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