New 4pt 4 Veneer Ivory inlay Cam Custom Cue

CAMCUES

CAMCUES

New member
OK fresh from the shop a new 4 point 4 Veneer cue with stainless joint ,Stainless Radial pin, leather wrap, derlin butt cap ,4 sharp real Ivory inlays in ebony butt sleeve.

Specs on cue are :

Butt:
29 inches long
16.5oz
.841 at joint
1.250 at derlin butt cap

Shaft 1 is 29 3/4 inches long,3.6oz , linen ferrule ,good lepro tip and 12.95mm

shaft 2 is 29 1/2 inches long,3.9oz , linen ferrule , great triangle tip and 12.65mm

Both shafts are A+ grade aged maple

Balance point is 19 inches up from base of derlin butt cap.

Veneers are Black,Red,Green and Maple with thin black veneer between each color.

total weight is 20.1oz or 20.4oz cue does not fill like a 20 oz cue because of the forward balance point cue feels and plays great.


Cue is SOLD !!

PM with questions

Thanks
:) :) points1-az.JPG

butt1-az.JPG

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joint type

I am wondering about your choice of pin in combination with that joint collar. May I ask why you didn't go with the 5/16x14 piloted? Does that cue hit differently than if it were one? I am trying to learn here, not trying to be a smart ass.
 
From my experience, using the bigger pins (3/8x10, 3/8x11, and Radial) you get a stiffer hitting cue. Plus most of the bigger pins are in a wood to wood joint, which also gives more feedback through the cue. Feels more like a 1 piece cue.
 
deadgearplyr said:
I am wondering about your choice of pin in combination with that joint collar. May I ask why you didn't go with the 5/16x14 piloted? Does that cue hit differently than if it were one? I am trying to learn here, not trying to be a smart ass.
Click to expand...

I was like you, and thought classic styled cues needed and DESERVED a piloted 14 pin. I have some being built like that right now.

Everyone was always talking about the Radials, and I didn't buy it; Can't hit hard enough for me, I like the old school "BONK".

Well, my buddy Harry Richards has me convinced it's 90% the shaft / ferrule / tip combination and you can make almost ANY pin hit good and hard if you want to.

My current cue, a simple cocobolo merry widow, is the hardest hitting thing I have ever played with, sounds like a Big Bertha metal wood when you stun something center-ball.

It's got a thin walled ss joint, wood to wood flat faces and a radial pin.

If he'd had me hit with it without looking inside the joint, I never would have believed it.

Now I'm all confused as to what to get next?!?!?!

I love the traditional 14 / piloted, but damn, that radial hits good too!!!

Hope that helped.
 
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I just bought one of Chris' cues and ordered another one, you won't be disappointed with the hit or the workmanship.
 
Thanks everyone for your input
I use the radial pin as much as possible because I believe it is one of the best playing pins out there I have used 14 pins and in most cases unless a customer wants brass inserts I make a threaded phenolic plug in the shaft and use a flush joint for 14 pin cues .this obtains the maximum surface contact between a v cut pin and threads in shaft and that is the goal right to make it play as close to a solid one piece cue.. I personally don't like metal on metal or brass contact points in a cue it kills some of the vibrations that come from the tip when you hit a ball this is the fill (hard,stiff,med or soft hit) . The radial pin into a wood shaft is best I think and the stainless joint effects very little in terms of hit in my opinion . The shaft wood ( thight grain , loose grain , old wood etc.) and ferrule type ( linen,LBM,plastic,Ivory,Ivorine etc.) and the way it is installed (threaded and caped,threaded uncapped, thin wall slide on with no threads , metal pin etc.) then of course the tip. I believe that these are the factors that effect the HIT of a cue more than anything else. My cues if you don't ask for something different will always have a Linen ferrule threaded and capped with a Triangle or lepro tip. I will use about 1/2 the tips that come in a box of 50 thats about all you get as far as good hitting tips these days.That ferrule and tip setup with a radial joint I have found fills the best to me and thats the way i make my cues if I don't like the way they hit then they are junk..

Hope this answered the question
Thanks again guys for your interest in my work
cue is still for sale

Thanks
Chad Mclennan

Thanks Klink for the feedback on the cue you bought recently
 
Cam

2- grade A+ shafts, leather wrap, ivory inlays, beautiful points, and a great playing cue!!

That's a heck of a deal for a cue of this caliber. If you're thinking about pulling the trigger on this cue, no way would you be dissapointed. Chad has been around for awhile and he's known for making a solid playing cue as well as being a perfectionist with their construction.
 
One of my cues from Chad has this same joint, and it hits a TON with great feedback. I just picked up a second of his with the same pin but different construction, can't wait to see how it plays.

You won't be disappointed in the play or craftmanship of his cues.
 
Thanks Ted and Cyrex for the good word



I would also like to Thanks Hunter for the info on makeing my pictures show up without clicking on the links thats alot better .

Wed. night bump back up with better pics

Thanks
 
Another bump for this cue
reduced price for quick sale

a few more days on AZ and I will put this one back in the case for awhile

Thanks
 
CAMCUES said:
Thanks everyone for your input
I use the radial pin as much as possible because I believe it is one of the best playing pins out there I have used 14 pins and in most cases unless a customer wants brass inserts I make a threaded phenolic plug in the shaft and use a flush joint for 14 pin cues .this obtains the maximum surface contact between a v cut pin and threads in shaft and that is the goal right to make it play as close to a solid one piece cue.. I personally don't like metal on metal or brass contact points in a cue it kills some of the vibrations that come from the tip when you hit a ball this is the fill (hard,stiff,med or soft hit) . The radial pin into a wood shaft is best I think and the stainless joint effects very little in terms of hit in my opinion . The shaft wood ( thight grain , loose grain , old wood etc.) and ferrule type ( linen,LBM,plastic,Ivory,Ivorine etc.) and the way it is installed (threaded and caped,threaded uncapped, thin wall slide on with no threads , metal pin etc.) then of course the tip. I believe that these are the factors that effect the HIT of a cue more than anything else. My cues if you don't ask for something different will always have a Linen ferrule threaded and capped with a Triangle or lepro tip. I will use about 1/2 the tips that come in a box of 50 thats about all you get as far as good hitting tips these days.That ferrule and tip setup with a radial joint I have found fills the best to me and thats the way i make my cues if I don't like the way they hit then they are junk..

Hope this answered the question
Thanks again guys for your interest in my work
cue is still for sale

Thanks
Chad Mclennan

Thanks Klink for the feedback on the cue you bought recently
Click to expand...

Yes, that does answer my question. I asked a good friend of yours about you, Pete Petree and he had nothing but great things to say about you. I think your product is top notch and someday will own one of your cues. If you cues hit anything like Pete's I'm sold. That's pretty much as good as it gets right there.
 
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