new shaft coating for maple shafts

If i have a tiny ding in my shaft from a night of league play or a simple bump into a chair or table etc..It drives me nuts until i fix it.
I can make it perfectly slick and smooth again so fast,easy and cheap That the idea of $hipping it out with in$urance and waiting to see if it gets lost or damaged in transit, Then $pending $40.00 $$ to have it Extra slick until the next minor incident comes along seems absurd at best.

That being said,It may be perfect for preserving a cue that is no longer used, for generations to come (if it actually holds true over the test of time?) this would be a very good investment.
but for the most part my 30-40 year old cues are plenty straight don't need a lot of extra help to $tay that way. and "very slick" is plenty slick for me.

If it was something i could do as often as i wanted to at my own convenience even at some added cost, i would say AWESOME!

I just cant see it for a shooter cue.
But it sounds like an excellent preservation method for a cue that gets very little or no play.

I'm Jayman, and I approved this analysis.
 
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Great idea-

mike is the shaft coating clear? if so I will send you 6 shafts to try first. my hands sweat and I clean my shafts between each and every trip to the table- the stroke gets shorter -looseing follow through. when the shafts get sweaty- It sounds like the shafts will stay dryier in my case. I wish some people would understand that it is harder to put on 1 venner or two and 45 the pts. than the putting 45's with 4 larger venners. mark sounds like a waterborn finnish to me mark
 
Fart sniffer said:
Well I wouldn't sand the shaft intentionally but what happens if you get your tip or ferrule changed? From my experience some sanding happens then so I'm curious about what happens.
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I put the tips and ferrules very last thing on my new shafts. The shafts are all ready coated. I use a 1000 grit sand paper to hit the ferrule and shaft together. I guess it depends on how good they cut ferrules and tips and how hard they hit the finish. I think there will be a lot of repairmen and cue makers carrying this product shortly. I just did a Predator shaft and I must say it is unbelievable the difference.
 
jayman said:
If i have a tiny ding in my shaft from a night of league play or a simple bump into a chair or table etc..It drives me nuts until i fix it.
I can make it perfectly slick and smooth again so fast,easy and cheap That the idea of $hipping it out with in$urance and waiting to see if it gets lost or damaged in transit, Then $pending $40.00 $$ to have it Extra slick until the next minor incident comes along seems absurd at best.

That being said,It may be perfect for preserving a cue that is no longer used, for generations to come (if it actually holds true over the test of time?) this would be a very good investment.
but for the most part my 30-40 year old cues are plenty straight don't need a lot of extra help to $tay that way. and "very slick" is plenty slick for me.

If it was something i could do as often as i wanted to at my own convenience even at some added cost, i would say AWESOME!

I just cant see it for a shooter cue.
But it sounds like an excellent preservation method for a cue that gets very little or no play.

I'm Jayman, and I approved this analysis.
Click to expand...
I play everyday and my shaft is just like the day I finished. I have my break cue that has had the finish on for 5 months. It is very hard to ding. It takes an unusual hit like on the edge of the table not by just hitting a ball towards yourself. This material is very hard but flexible, clear and very slick. I developed this material because as all of the cue makers know the shaft wood we are getting today is not like the shafts of old. I have thrown away 60 shafts out of 100 in the past. Now I'm over 90% good. My shafts will be much harder to damage look new and stay straiter. This must be good. When this material comes to an area near you or a new shaft has it already applied and now your maintenance is minimal. Just something new for the future of our equipment, I have one customer that buys a shaft every 6 months or so because he sands it constantly and it comes down dramatically in size even with 1000 grit.
 
HollyWood said:
mike is the shaft coating clear? if so I will send you 6 shafts to try first. my hands sweat and I clean my shafts between each and every trip to the table- the stroke gets shorter -looseing follow through. when the shafts get sweaty- It sounds like the shafts will stay dryier in my case. I wish some people would understand that it is harder to put on 1 venner or two and 45 the pts. than the putting 45's with 4 larger venners. mark sounds like a waterborn finnish to me mark
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The drawback to older shafts is that the clear finish will lock in the dirt and oxidation I cannot get out. I would like to do a shaft or 2 to see if you like the way it works. I know some players sweat a lot with a high intensity play. I do not sweat and do not ding my shaft very often, because I am a cue maker now not an intense pool player. You might be a great test for this new material. If you send me some shafts know that I will clean and sand them before I finish them, usually the finish compensates for the sanding, only a few thousands. It takes a couple of days but I would get it done ASAP.
 
Mike, just to set the record straight, you don't need a trademark registration as much as you need a patent. I can do the same product with a different name and invalidate any market advantage you might build up. A patent, while more expensive and time consuming, is much more protective. Just an idea.

tim
 
stikapos said:
Mike, just to set the record straight, you don't need a trademark registration as much as you need a patent. I can do the same product with a different name and invalidate any market advantage you might build up. A patent, while more expensive and time consuming, is much more protective. Just an idea.

tim
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The product I am using is proprietary information. You cannot get this material, but you have raised a point I will address, I think a registered trademark is all I need, but thank you very much.
 
How does this product differ from grain hardners you can buy over the counter?
 
ratcues said:
How does this product differ from grain hardners you can buy over the counter?
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This material has been formulated specifically for pool cue shafts. It is made to adhere even under the most extreme conditions like heating it up to 120 degrees and immediately let it freeze at 23 degrees Fahrenheit. This was one test preformed on the product. It is made to stabilize, protect, and stay slick through all types of conditions. You cannot get this material commercially, let alone over the counter.
 
ratcues said:
You mentioned you spray it on. Can you spin it on as well?
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I took for granted that everyone spins while they spray. You must spin the product for a good finish.
 
gulyassy said:
The product I am using is proprietary information. You cannot get this material, but you have raised a point I will address, I think a registered trademark is all I need, but thank you very much.
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Never hurts to ask a lawyer. Until the bill comes, though! BTW, if one is having partials fitted out, is it best to do the coating before or after the joint is fitted ???

thanks,
tim
 
stikapos said:
Never hurts to ask a lawyer. Until the bill comes, though! BTW, if one is having partials fitted out, is it best to do the coating before or after the joint is fitted ???

thanks,
tim
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the joint size should be determined, coated and finished to size. It can be done after but that is a lot of extra steps. I can fit shafts in 3 days, coated, sized and shipped, and the look is phenomenal. My finished shafts have no start or finish, they are very shiny at the joint and shiny the whole shaft. A very clean look.
 
gulyassy said:
I have just developed a new shaft coating that will not only keep out the green, blue and oxidation, but it will help keep it strait. And it is as slick as any that you have felt. It is a permanent coating and is much harder than the wood. I have just applied it to my products for about 2 weeks now and am testing it with heat and cold. I have my shaft I play with coated and never use any powder or never wipe it off. I have not tested it in the tournament type conditions yet but this is coming this weekend at Golsboro NC. This new shaft coating does not change the hit or the feel of the shaft. It always feels good. This new coating is available right now. I can apply it to your old shaft or to a new shaft. My new break jump cues and playing cues have this new coating on it. I have been using shaft coatings for the last year and now I have developed it into something that is amazing.
I am now getting a registered trademark for my product.
Mike Gulyassy
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Could you send some to Gary Carnes in Mills River N.C....he used some of your shaft cleaner last night on my cue and it was amazing....are you sure it is downy soap mixed with baking soda? LOL!! Anyway i am interested in the new coating.......:grin:
 
gulyassy said:
I took for granted that everyone spins while they spray. You must spin the product for a good finish.
Click to expand...

I mean spin it on like a sanding sealer, not while spraying.
 
Sharkey said:
You never did say what the it is based with?
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The base material is proprietary information. The specs, price and name will be revealed soon.
 
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ratcues said:
I mean spin it on like a sanding sealer, not while spraying.
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This material is for stabilizing the shafts. Sander sealer is replaced by this. It will replace all the stabilizers we are using or have used in the past for the shafts. This material is applied like your clear finish. Spinning is used in the application process. This is not applied by hand. This finish is as permanent as you clear finish on your butts.
 
gulyassy said:
I play everyday and my shaft is just like the day I finished. I have my break cue that has had the finish on for 5 months. It is very hard to ding. It takes an unusual hit like on the edge of the table not by just hitting a ball towards yourself. This material is very hard but flexible, clear and very slick. I developed this material because as all of the cue makers know the shaft wood we are getting today is not like the shafts of old. I have thrown away 60 shafts out of 100 in the past. Now I'm over 90% good. My shafts will be much harder to damage look new and stay straiter. This must be good. When this material comes to an area near you or a new shaft has it already applied and now your maintenance is minimal. Just something new for the future of our equipment, I have one customer that buys a shaft every 6 months or so because he sands it constantly and it comes down dramatically in size even with 1000 grit.
Click to expand...

I buy a lot of cues that come with cases, about half of them have some sandpaper or scotch brite in the pouch :yikes:
I watch people sanding away all the time in bars. I just cringe at the site.

I will be very interested to see/ feel a shaft after this has been done. If it makes it harder to ding, that is certainly a huge plus.

The most interesting test for me would be to use a treated one in a bar i often go to, that uses two huge swamp coolers in the summer.

It gets so humid in there a shaft will just cling to you'r fingers.

I finaly broke down and bought a glove to carry with me just for the few times a year that it gets so sticky i cant play comfortably without it.

It does sound like a great product.

It could be worth it to me to carry an extra special secret weapen shaft just for use in times like that if nothing else.


Are you doing this to all the shafts you make now?

Jayman.
 
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