NSK spindle
- Thread starter bubsbug
- Start date
I would say "probably". I think where the problem could occur would be in the connection between the router spindle and the NSK spindle. They would need to be in perfect alignment with each other. If the two spindles are not aligned as if they are one there will be stress put on both the bearings and spindles. This, I believe is a very good idea however if the speeds don't exceed the bearings limits and the alignment is correct. Of coarse by doing it this way you are back to the loud whine from the router.
Dick
You got quite of "MODIFICATION"of direct drive on your NSK spindle...:thumbup:
I agree with RHN, but will go further and say this is NOT a good idea. You need to allow for misalignment between the two systems. The top bearing in the NSK system will probably have a compromised life in this scenario. There are lots of different coupling systems, and you can look at MSC for them.
A belt would probably be the best for this scenario, because you will probably have large vibrations of the trim router as compared to the NSK spindle. The belt can help isolate the vibrations, and will also do a good job with non-concentricity of the two systems.
A belt would probably be the best for this scenario, because you will probably have large vibrations of the trim router as compared to the NSK spindle. The belt can help isolate the vibrations, and will also do a good job with non-concentricity of the two systems.
I agree, a belt drive will be the best solution, using a router as the drive unit. It will be loud, but the belt method will keep it going longer than the direct connect, plus with vibration isolation, you'll have a cleaner cut.
Dave
I would think it would have to be a pretty good belt to be able to sustain the G-forces of 25,000 rpm.
Dick
belt system
I do have the complete quiet router set up. I have two issues with it. First I believe that it has too much weight for the machine and second I don’t like the belt set up. It seems to lack power and slip under load. I have been thinking about changing pulleys and going to some sort of notched belt system and perhaps going to a bigger motor. Does anyone have any ideas? I have too much money in it not to use it.
I do have the complete quiet router set up. I have two issues with it. First I believe that it has too much weight for the machine and second I don’t like the belt set up. It seems to lack power and slip under load. I have been thinking about changing pulleys and going to some sort of notched belt system and perhaps going to a bigger motor. Does anyone have any ideas? I have too much money in it not to use it.
If you stick with the way you currently have the router, check out this link:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-couplings/=6ij3az
Its for shaft couplings. Within the link, check out all the pages under flexible couplings. There are lots of types, and only a few are rated for high RPM's in the range of a router's speed.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-couplings/=6ij3az
Its for shaft couplings. Within the link, check out all the pages under flexible couplings. There are lots of types, and only a few are rated for high RPM's in the range of a router's speed.
NSK quiet is nice B U T.....
Just my opinion.... Quiet is nice but when there is not enought TORQUE.... i replace the Quiet router to Colt 1hp router you can buy from HOME DEPOT...
Just my opinion.... Quiet is nice but when there is not enought TORQUE.... i replace the Quiet router to Colt 1hp router you can buy from HOME DEPOT...
Your last sentence reminded me of an economic concept I learned about in school: "Sunk Costs". Its means money you already spent on something, and it should NOT be used as a basis to make decisions. For example, in your case lets say you spent $1000 on the NSK spindle. It doesn't meet your power requirements. ANd lets say you can buy a $100 trim router THat does meet your power requirements, and is good enough accuracy for the application you are using. THe $1000 cost of the NSK is gone. It SHould not be part of your decision process. All that matters at this point is how much money you have to spend from NOW to get what you want.
So your choices are:
1. Maybe you have to spend $100 to make a nice coupling between the trim router and the NSK spindle.
2. Maybe you have to buy a new trim router for $100, and use it by itself.
That is the decision you have to make. The $1000 you spent on the NSK does not factor into the decision at all, when you apply the principles of Sunk Cost.
I remember the example the professor gave us was about a couple who spent 10K on an architect to design their perfect house. They paid the architect and were happy with the plans. But, then they found stock plans for $400 that they loved even more. At this point, they have a decision to make. Stick with the 10k plans already paid for, or spend $400 for the stock plans. The 10k already spent is a sunk cost and should not be factored into the decision.
John: May we go back to square one and, can I ask you which machine are you using your quiet router on, and what use do you plan to give it?
It appears to be a Unique Taper Shaper. Is that right? And you are turning shafts? I seem to recall you had a Table Saw Shaft Taper machine, are you using the TaperShaper only for final shaft taper cuts? If so, the Quiet router works quite well with the belt drive and a slower feed and cut rate. I get long life from my belts with the QR dialed down and smoothly cutting shafts. If you are turning from square to round with the TS, then it would be better to employ a heavier duty router. I have mounted a Dewalt 2 1/4 HP plunge router to my Cue Monster and it works great for either rough or final cuts. I also have a TaperShaper and could use the DeWalt on that machine if I wanted to. It is way heavier than the 1 HP router in your picture, yet the frame of the TS handles it easily. The added size poses no problem. If you look up my post on the DeWalt I show it mounted to the Monster. I prefer to use the quiet router that came with the Cuemonster for inlaying only and not tax it for rough tasks like tapering. The DeWalt does a great job of tapering, and cutting point V-grooves in the forearms.
It appears to be a Unique Taper Shaper. Is that right? And you are turning shafts? I seem to recall you had a Table Saw Shaft Taper machine, are you using the TaperShaper only for final shaft taper cuts? If so, the Quiet router works quite well with the belt drive and a slower feed and cut rate. I get long life from my belts with the QR dialed down and smoothly cutting shafts. If you are turning from square to round with the TS, then it would be better to employ a heavier duty router. I have mounted a Dewalt 2 1/4 HP plunge router to my Cue Monster and it works great for either rough or final cuts. I also have a TaperShaper and could use the DeWalt on that machine if I wanted to. It is way heavier than the 1 HP router in your picture, yet the frame of the TS handles it easily. The added size poses no problem. If you look up my post on the DeWalt I show it mounted to the Monster. I prefer to use the quiet router that came with the Cuemonster for inlaying only and not tax it for rough tasks like tapering. The DeWalt does a great job of tapering, and cutting point V-grooves in the forearms.
Router Troubles
Olsenview
Thanks, I got rid of the saw machine some time ago. I use the Tapershaper for all cuts. I do like the idea of the quiet router but I have found that the stock Ryobi router is much superior. I never take a cut that is greater than ¼ turn which is .20. The cut itself is better with the ryobi router when looking at the wood. I have not yet used the 1hp router itself as it will not fit into the stock TS holder.
Let’s talk about the quiet router set up. Since day one, because of the weight it seems to bind up somewhere in the cross feed slide. (I know this because when I manipulate things it binds in different areas) When I make a pass to the right it is fine. When I make a pass to the left for return cut it starts out ok but when it gets to the end it is no longer tight against the shaft taper profile edge. This means that the cutter doesn’t spring retract like it should, thus binding. I have even put in additional springs. I have taken the cross feed completely apart and made adjustments. When I do nothing except replace back to ryobi router it works perfect. When I play around with things to balance all of the weight up top, I get different things that occur. Exp: adjusts the set screws and reposition the cutter base all the way forward or backward. Turn the quiet router so bulk of weight is in the rear or up front. Now sometimes it works well for awhile but then it eventually messes up. I do not want to gamble and take a chance of messing up my stock. The pass to the right is never an issue as the taper bar forces the router into the wood, it is always the pass to the left when the spring are supposed to force the cutter away from the wood being cut. Because I do nothing except change routers I contribute it to the weight difference.
Olsenview
Thanks, I got rid of the saw machine some time ago. I use the Tapershaper for all cuts. I do like the idea of the quiet router but I have found that the stock Ryobi router is much superior. I never take a cut that is greater than ¼ turn which is .20. The cut itself is better with the ryobi router when looking at the wood. I have not yet used the 1hp router itself as it will not fit into the stock TS holder.
Let’s talk about the quiet router set up. Since day one, because of the weight it seems to bind up somewhere in the cross feed slide. (I know this because when I manipulate things it binds in different areas) When I make a pass to the right it is fine. When I make a pass to the left for return cut it starts out ok but when it gets to the end it is no longer tight against the shaft taper profile edge. This means that the cutter doesn’t spring retract like it should, thus binding. I have even put in additional springs. I have taken the cross feed completely apart and made adjustments. When I do nothing except replace back to ryobi router it works perfect. When I play around with things to balance all of the weight up top, I get different things that occur. Exp: adjusts the set screws and reposition the cutter base all the way forward or backward. Turn the quiet router so bulk of weight is in the rear or up front. Now sometimes it works well for awhile but then it eventually messes up. I do not want to gamble and take a chance of messing up my stock. The pass to the right is never an issue as the taper bar forces the router into the wood, it is always the pass to the left when the spring are supposed to force the cutter away from the wood being cut. Because I do nothing except change routers I contribute it to the weight difference.
Well I can tell you from years of experience with the taper shaper and the cue monster that both had the quiet router that its not too much weight for the machine. It sounds like your cross slide needs to be adjusted. Also check your spring behind the cross slide and make sure that the C-clip is all the way in front of the spring pressing against the cross slide block.. If you have and questions feel free to contact me and I can walk you through adjusting the machine..
I would recommend the Kress 220 volt model.
The 120 volt one is OK but the 220 volt one is a lot smoother and faster.
Mounted on my CueMonster it can cut deeper and faster than the Quiet Router.
The Quiet Router was never intended for heavy cutting like V groves.
The 120 volt one is OK but the 220 volt one is a lot smoother and faster.
Mounted on my CueMonster it can cut deeper and faster than the Quiet Router.
The Quiet Router was never intended for heavy cutting like V groves.