Ob shaft with predator ferrule !!!!

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Thanks for the advice Royce. I usually like to have everything pretty perfect. I don't really allow for lots of tolerance. This installation was pretty flush , maybe .5-1 mm from the top of the tenon to the inside ceiling of the ferrule. Since it has a glue release I figured the excess will always come out so the joint will hold the right amount of glue needed to fill the cavity completely.
 
You are more then welcome to visit me and see for yourself the gapless installation. Trying to discredit my work is pretty low but O well. It's not my first ferrule either and some of them have a line some don't. Condition of wood, temperature, type of glue all affect the outcomes.
As long as there is a solid hit , smooth transition so what there is a discoloration line.

I love taking advice and I bug the shit out of people with questions how to do things but like Gandhi I listen from all and do my own thing.

Never said it has a gap now. You'd know that if you read the posts. The line is called epoxy. The reason that line is there, is that there was a gap during install. During install, all you did was make sure the ferrules oversized fitting looked flush. Not taking into account the kerf on the inside of the ferrule.

And if you want to take the attitude of 'so what' don't expect anyone to treat your work with respect when you don't want to respect our critisism of your work. If you did that work for me and took the 'so what' attitude, I'd break the shaft over your face. Repeatedly.

Want to know why that glue line is bad, just go look at technical data sheets for glue bonds. You'll understand then. If not, ask yourself this question, why do no custom cue makers have work that looks like that?
 
Wow so much violence. Those glue lines must be a big pet peeve of yours. Well I love them:)

Tone it down a little buddy. There is no wrong or right way as long as the end result is the same.
 
Enigmaticul said:
Tone it down a little buddy. There is no wrong or right way as long as the end result is the same.

Except the end result is NOT the same. I've installed probably 10x even 100x more ferrules than you and I've never had a glue line. I even put extra glue in that area during install. Not one glue line yet. Guess I must be doing something right that you're not. Epoxy, superglue, wood glue. It don't matter. That line is indicative of a poor install.
 
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Throw away your Gorilla 5-minute epoxy.
Or just use that for holding stuff temporarily before you whack them easily.
It looks like it was loose when you took it off too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=z6KxR4ps9IA#t=146

I'm guessing you faced it with the wrong bit.
What bit did you face that shoulder with ?

Leaving an alignment shoulder at the bottom ( about 3/16 high ) is not a bad idea so the ferrule sits flush.
 
Take your "I have the biggest d..k" attitude some where else. Just the fact that you assume you did so much more then me is very indicative of your character. People like you side track threads like this all the time putting their 2 cents where they do not belong. You are not rat cues, Jim buss , Joey in Cali, Tom hay and other member for which I have the greatest respect for and learned a lot from them.

So again tone it down , add something productive to the discussion and leave the machismo home.
 
I have had good results with the gorilla glue 5 min but I also heard people swear by defcon. Not very knowledgeable in epoxy"s yet so I just chose the gorilla glue based on price to be honest. I know a slower setting epoxy creates a stronger bond but at what point is overkill?
 
People usually don't take care of their equipment like I do. I am beyond anal with all my cues. But yes predator ferrules tend to crack if you break with them because the walls are so thin. I see idiots all the time breaking like monsters with 314"2. So far I have had good luck with predator shafts. Along the years I had probably 4 or 5 all played great.

I am referring to playing cues and players who never break with them...
 
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