OB1 let down

Patrick Johnson said:
"The whole idea behind providing less deflecion is the shaft moves (or flexes if you will) so that the ball isn't pushed off line."

I'm no scientist, but I understand from players who are scientists that shaft flexibility has little to do with cue ball deflection. They say it's all about the amount of "mass" in the first several inches at the tip end - which is why Predator (and now others) are hollowed out there. Meuccis, for instance, are not considered low deflection cues.

For another instance, I use a stiff shaft with a "conical" taper (no parallel "pro taper" part at all). However, because it's hollow near the tip and because the tip is very small in diameter (10mm), there's relatively little mass in the tip area and therefore little cue ball deflection.

pj
chgo

Well you can think what you will, but it is a combination of the two. If the end mass is less, and the shaft also moves (flexes) then the cue ball will be less likely to be driven off line.

You can say you are not a scientist, but it is simple physics. Besides all cues flex to a certain degree. If they didn't then radial consistency on a shaft wouldn't matter.

Would you rather be in a car wreck that you hit them head on, or one where you took the time to veer to the right and just grazed them a bit?

It is the same principle. If the shaft doesn't flex or move you will drive the cue ball off line more because something has to move out of the way.

For every action there is an opposite and equal reaction.
 
txplshrk said:
Well you can think what you will, but it is a combination of the two. If the end mass is less, and the shaft also moves (flexes) then the cue ball will be less likely to be driven off line.

You can say you are not a scientist, but it is simple physics. Besides all cues flex to a certain degree. If they didn't then radial consistency on a shaft wouldn't matter.

Would you rather be in a car wreck that you hit them head on, or one where you took the time to veer to the right and just grazed them a bit?

It is the same principle. If the shaft doesn't flex or move you will drive the cue ball off line more because something has to move out of the way.

For every action there is an opposite and equal reaction.

I've seen Pat's cue and shaft, and indeed it squirts/deflects the cue ball very little. I also saw him jump a ball with ease with his cue. I used to think squirt was due to having a stiff shaft but seeing is believing, and I believe what I saw. There is another advantage to having a stiff hit, IMHO. It definitely does help one's confidence. I have experimented with altering shafts quite a bit, and have made some shafts extremely flexible, and have "Predatorized" some of them too. Hollowing out the first 3 inches or so really does reduce the squirt, no doubt about it. But the hit is no longer pleasing to me, especially on soft shots. On stroke shots it's fine, but those little dinky shots with a touch of draw and so on don't work well for me with that shaft. On another note, I didn't like the hit of my Predator shaft, even though it was plenty stiff, and sold it. An OB-1 is on the way. Will it be the holy grail? Time will tell.

Flex
 
ob1 satisfaction

Despite the "meucci-like" feel of the really long pro taper, I'm going
to keep this shaft as my main player and have it finished to match
my Dominiak Sweet Sixteen.

This shaft plays strong and the triangle tip has gotten better with
time also.

I'm going to add a z2 to the arsenal as well, so if you have one for
a radial pin with a black collar, let me know.
 
aside from sniper.. what other tips would you recommend putting on an ob-1?
 
Last edited:
Well you can think what you will, but it is a combination of the two. If the end mass is less, and the shaft also moves (flexes) then the cue ball will be less likely to be driven off line.

But where does the shaft have to bend?
If the shaft has that Meucci taper, it will bend way far behind the 12" area from the tip.
I don't like long barrled shafts because they are less "pointable" imo.
IT's easier to point a shaft when it has a gradual taper behind the bridge hand imo.
Also I THINK when a shaft is too whippy, it might STAY on the cueball longer. Instead of the tip deflecting away from the tip, the shaft would buckle behind and "catapult" the cueball.
 
coopdeville said:
Despite the "meucci-like" feel of the really long pro taper, I'm going
to keep this shaft as my main player and have it finished to match
my Dominiak Sweet Sixteen.

This shaft plays strong and the triangle tip has gotten better with
time also.

I'm going to add a z2 to the arsenal as well, so if you have one for
a radial pin with a black collar, let me know.

I too would like to try out a Z2 on my two cues. I know the Bender has a custom pin but maybe Predator makes a shaft for the Gulyassy.
JoeyA
 
easy

JoeyA said:
I too would like to try out a Z2 on my two cues. I know the Bender has a custom pin but maybe Predator makes a shaft for the Gulyassy.
JoeyA

you can get a blank and have it tapped for whatever you need.
 
coopdeville said:
you can get a blank and have it tapped for whatever you need.

Yeah I know, but I want the custom collar on the Z2 to match my Bender cue and that work costs a hundred bucks.
JoeyA (doesn't like to throw money at a problem :D )
 
Back
Top