Olhausen snooker table
- Thread starter ultraming
- Start date
Riley and BCE are now the same company. As far as I can tell, they're using the BCE brand for pool tables and maybe lower-end snooker tables.
Is an Olhausen 12-footer likely to be as good as a Riley? I wouldn't think so. 12-foot Rileys have 1.75" slate, for one thing, and I don't see Olhausen doing that. Nor do I see Olhausen using steel rails (yes, I do know that not all Rileys use steel, either). In fact, the more I think about it there are several questions I'd ask Olhausen before I bought a snooker table from them: Is it set up for English or American snooker (I wouldn't assume English just because it's a 12-footer)? If it's for English snooker, do they use a good napped cloth, and which one? What is the actual slate thickness? Is it the proper height? There are probably others.
Make no mistake: I have absolutely nothing against Olhausen. I dealt with them off and on from their start in San Diego until their move to TN. In the early days when Butch and Donny were around the shop a lot, they came across as decent, hard working guys who wanted to build a good product at a reasonable price. As far as I'm concerned, they did, and I see no reason that should have changed after the move. I like their pool tables, and I'm still very pleased with the one I bought eight or nine years ago. But I can't imagine they build many snooker tables and I'd want to make sure we were all on the same page before I got one.
Is an Olhausen 12-footer likely to be as good as a Riley? I wouldn't think so. 12-foot Rileys have 1.75" slate, for one thing, and I don't see Olhausen doing that. Nor do I see Olhausen using steel rails (yes, I do know that not all Rileys use steel, either). In fact, the more I think about it there are several questions I'd ask Olhausen before I bought a snooker table from them: Is it set up for English or American snooker (I wouldn't assume English just because it's a 12-footer)? If it's for English snooker, do they use a good napped cloth, and which one? What is the actual slate thickness? Is it the proper height? There are probably others.
Make no mistake: I have absolutely nothing against Olhausen. I dealt with them off and on from their start in San Diego until their move to TN. In the early days when Butch and Donny were around the shop a lot, they came across as decent, hard working guys who wanted to build a good product at a reasonable price. As far as I'm concerned, they did, and I see no reason that should have changed after the move. I like their pool tables, and I'm still very pleased with the one I bought eight or nine years ago. But I can't imagine they build many snooker tables and I'd want to make sure we were all on the same page before I got one.
Thanks. Can you tell me what is the difference bet English snooker and American snooker? And what is the easiest way to tell which style is the table setup?
ultraming
ultraming
Last edited:
I was sort of wondering what the differences are myself. I would like to think World Snooker would have defined standards.
All of the American snooker tables I've seen were designed for 2.125 or 2.25 inch balls (2 1/8 or 2 1/4). English (properly "International") snooker tables use 2.0625 (2 1/16) inch balls. This generally makes for a difference in pocket size. It also makes a difference in the height of the cushions. The pockets of an international table are supposed to be cut to standard templates specified by the international governing body. The American tables I've seen had pocket widths that were all over the place, though they had what looked more or less like a real snooker curvature to the "points" of the corners.
An international "6x12" should have a playing surface inside the cushions of about 140x70 inches. The spec says 140.5 x 70 inches, plus-or-minus one-half inch in both dimensions; which means anything from 140x69.5 to 141x70.5 is acceptable. I assume the same is true for an American 6x12, but I don't know that for certain.
International snooker tables are 33.5 to 34.5 inches from the floor to the top of the rail. All American snooker tables I've seen are the same height as normal pool tables (generally a couple of inches lower). It makes a difference; personally, I wish pool tables were higher.
International snooker cushions have an "L77" profile, which is quite different from pool table cushions. There's a good picture on the Riley web site. I think all American tables I've seen had standard-looking pool cushions.
International tables use a "napped" cloth, as opposed to the smooth cloth used on modern pool and billiard tables. It's installed so that the nap runs from the head (the end you break from) to the foot (where the 7-ball is spotted). You always brush and iron it in that direction. The nap makes a difference, as the ball doesn't always behave quite the same in one direction as it does in the other.
Again, for the Olhausen, I'd call the factory and ask how they make them (or "made" if it's a used table). Things like are they made for 2 1/16 or 2 1/8 or 2 1/4 inch balls; are the pockets cut to the standard templates; are they the right height; etc, etc.
If you're looking at a used Olhausen that's been in a pool hall, then there's a good chance that it was used for Golf and has extremely tight pockets. For that matter, the same is probably true for any snooker table coming out of a pool hall. Golf players have a preference for 2-inch pockets when playing with 2 1/8 inch balls.
Now that I think of it, installation may be an issue. I don't know how many mechanics have ever installed a snooker table, Riley or Olhausen, nor do I know what the differences between a snooker table and a pool table might be from that point of view. You might want to ask some questions about that (and about quality) in the "Ask a Mechanic" section of this forum. On installation, be sure to check that the table is actually square before the mechanic leaves. This means that not only must the distance between parallel cushions be the same at all points, but the end cushions must be perpendicular to both side cushions (i.e., both diagonals must be the same length). Some Olhausen pool tables can (could, anyway) be set up in a slightly trapezoidal or parallelogram shape (I know this from experience), and that may be true of other tables.
An international "6x12" should have a playing surface inside the cushions of about 140x70 inches. The spec says 140.5 x 70 inches, plus-or-minus one-half inch in both dimensions; which means anything from 140x69.5 to 141x70.5 is acceptable. I assume the same is true for an American 6x12, but I don't know that for certain.
International snooker tables are 33.5 to 34.5 inches from the floor to the top of the rail. All American snooker tables I've seen are the same height as normal pool tables (generally a couple of inches lower). It makes a difference; personally, I wish pool tables were higher.
International snooker cushions have an "L77" profile, which is quite different from pool table cushions. There's a good picture on the Riley web site. I think all American tables I've seen had standard-looking pool cushions.
International tables use a "napped" cloth, as opposed to the smooth cloth used on modern pool and billiard tables. It's installed so that the nap runs from the head (the end you break from) to the foot (where the 7-ball is spotted). You always brush and iron it in that direction. The nap makes a difference, as the ball doesn't always behave quite the same in one direction as it does in the other.
Again, for the Olhausen, I'd call the factory and ask how they make them (or "made" if it's a used table). Things like are they made for 2 1/16 or 2 1/8 or 2 1/4 inch balls; are the pockets cut to the standard templates; are they the right height; etc, etc.
If you're looking at a used Olhausen that's been in a pool hall, then there's a good chance that it was used for Golf and has extremely tight pockets. For that matter, the same is probably true for any snooker table coming out of a pool hall. Golf players have a preference for 2-inch pockets when playing with 2 1/8 inch balls.
Now that I think of it, installation may be an issue. I don't know how many mechanics have ever installed a snooker table, Riley or Olhausen, nor do I know what the differences between a snooker table and a pool table might be from that point of view. You might want to ask some questions about that (and about quality) in the "Ask a Mechanic" section of this forum. On installation, be sure to check that the table is actually square before the mechanic leaves. This means that not only must the distance between parallel cushions be the same at all points, but the end cushions must be perpendicular to both side cushions (i.e., both diagonals must be the same length). Some Olhausen pool tables can (could, anyway) be set up in a slightly trapezoidal or parallelogram shape (I know this from experience), and that may be true of other tables.
Here is probably more stuff than what you need...
You may wish to check out Kaldera Billiards out of Shaumberg, Illinois. They are a Lithuanian company that are well-known for their 12ft Russian Pyramid tables - which are very similar in design to the classic 12 ft English billiard (snooker) tables. They list quite a few models as being well-suited for snooker. There are a few differences.
http://www.kalderabilliards.us/
The tricky bit is making sure they can make the rails correctly. But if they are prepared to build the rails to World Snooker specs, there shouldn't be a problem.
You may need to get some Strachan 6811 30oz snooker cloth. It has a directional nap rather than a weave - and requires some serious attention for proper upkeep. Not only do you have to brush it the same direction (from the baulk cushion to the pyramid cushion) you have to periodically iron it with a dry flat iron to keep the table rolling fast and consistent.
http://www.milliken-wsp.co.uk/en-gb/Pages/genuine_strachan_cloth.aspx
To learn the art of ironing the cloth check out pgs 83-84. Keep in mind that the English call the ends of the table in opposite terms than Americans. The English "Top" rail is where the American "Foot" rail is. A good memory trick is "The English shoot UP the table, Americans drop the ball..."
http://books.google.com/books?id=LaI8AAAAYAAJ&pg=PR7&dq=billiards+badminton+broadfoot&hl=en&ei=_8z9TLW_FYKC8gawlK2xBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDQQ6
The cloth can be purchased domestically from Sterling Gaming...just don't buy the sterling line of balls...no matter how tempting.
http://www.sterling-gaming.com/billiard-table-cloth-strachan-snooker-cloth-c-145_146.html
Then you need the rail rubber. It is a "stepped" L-77 profile rather than the traditional triangular k-66 all pool players are used to.
The top brand currently is "Northern Rubber L-77" from England. You will probably have better luck finding it from an online distributor in England or Germany.
http://www.hainsworth.co.uk/interior-fabrics/billiard-snooker-and-pool-accessories/northern-rubber-by-hainsworth
Now for balls. You want the Aramith Tournament Champion set. They only come in 52.4mm (2 1/16") and cannot be purchased domestically - so once again, you will have to find an English or German distributor. They are surprisingly easy to find. There are also a line called the "Super Crystalate" The only real difference is that the colored balls have a "pastel" look - which is a tad more traditional...shop around find the best deal.
http://www.saluc.com/html/billiard/index.php?idlien=14
On cues: Two words, two woods - Ash and ebony. And nothing that costs $25. Peradon is nice. I own a 3/4 jointed peradon century - and it is the equivalent of picking up a decent McDermott pool cue. If you shoot "chin to the wood" I recommend a 3/4 joint otherwise you end up roughing up your skin pretty bad. Once again, there are no domestic distributors and you will definitely want to pick up spare tips and a tip clamp that will fit it.
http://www.peradon.co.uk/
Good luck and happy potting!!!
You may wish to check out Kaldera Billiards out of Shaumberg, Illinois. They are a Lithuanian company that are well-known for their 12ft Russian Pyramid tables - which are very similar in design to the classic 12 ft English billiard (snooker) tables. They list quite a few models as being well-suited for snooker. There are a few differences.
http://www.kalderabilliards.us/
The tricky bit is making sure they can make the rails correctly. But if they are prepared to build the rails to World Snooker specs, there shouldn't be a problem.
You may need to get some Strachan 6811 30oz snooker cloth. It has a directional nap rather than a weave - and requires some serious attention for proper upkeep. Not only do you have to brush it the same direction (from the baulk cushion to the pyramid cushion) you have to periodically iron it with a dry flat iron to keep the table rolling fast and consistent.
http://www.milliken-wsp.co.uk/en-gb/Pages/genuine_strachan_cloth.aspx
To learn the art of ironing the cloth check out pgs 83-84. Keep in mind that the English call the ends of the table in opposite terms than Americans. The English "Top" rail is where the American "Foot" rail is. A good memory trick is "The English shoot UP the table, Americans drop the ball..."
http://books.google.com/books?id=LaI8AAAAYAAJ&pg=PR7&dq=billiards+badminton+broadfoot&hl=en&ei=_8z9TLW_FYKC8gawlK2xBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDQQ6
The cloth can be purchased domestically from Sterling Gaming...just don't buy the sterling line of balls...no matter how tempting.
http://www.sterling-gaming.com/billiard-table-cloth-strachan-snooker-cloth-c-145_146.html
Then you need the rail rubber. It is a "stepped" L-77 profile rather than the traditional triangular k-66 all pool players are used to.
The top brand currently is "Northern Rubber L-77" from England. You will probably have better luck finding it from an online distributor in England or Germany.
http://www.hainsworth.co.uk/interior-fabrics/billiard-snooker-and-pool-accessories/northern-rubber-by-hainsworth
Now for balls. You want the Aramith Tournament Champion set. They only come in 52.4mm (2 1/16") and cannot be purchased domestically - so once again, you will have to find an English or German distributor. They are surprisingly easy to find. There are also a line called the "Super Crystalate" The only real difference is that the colored balls have a "pastel" look - which is a tad more traditional...shop around find the best deal.
http://www.saluc.com/html/billiard/index.php?idlien=14
On cues: Two words, two woods - Ash and ebony. And nothing that costs $25. Peradon is nice. I own a 3/4 jointed peradon century - and it is the equivalent of picking up a decent McDermott pool cue. If you shoot "chin to the wood" I recommend a 3/4 joint otherwise you end up roughing up your skin pretty bad. Once again, there are no domestic distributors and you will definitely want to pick up spare tips and a tip clamp that will fit it.
http://www.peradon.co.uk/
Good luck and happy potting!!!
I am a rep for Olhausen carom and snooker tables. Donny Olhausen is very much involved in the day to day operation. Very good table.
Let me know if I can be of help. Olhausen makes a 2" slate on their carom tables. The Olhausen 3C USBA tournament was played on the Olhausen Southern table. It's a beautiful table.
Steve Andersen
www.trafficcontrolcaroms.com
Let me know if I can be of help. Olhausen makes a 2" slate on their carom tables. The Olhausen 3C USBA tournament was played on the Olhausen Southern table. It's a beautiful table.
Steve Andersen
www.trafficcontrolcaroms.com
Last edited:
Yes, Brunswick is good but they stopped making snooker rails in 1998 and that would be for 10 ft Gold Crown's
If you want a Brunswick 12 footer you will have to find a Canadian product as I believe they stopped making 12 footers in the early 1900's for the US market
If you want a Brunswick 12 footer you will have to find a Canadian product as I believe they stopped making 12 footers in the early 1900's for the US market
I did a measurement today. The table is 12' 1" x 6' 5" and height from floor to the top of the rail is 32". The guy told me it is using the english snooker pocket and cushion. I think there is something wrong with the sizing of this table. Thanks. I will post some pic later. Still need to make a decision if I still want to go for it. Thanks.
